CVA Kentucky Trigger Upgrade

[Ky-Flinter]

This is part of my on-going CVA Kentucky project.  The original trigger pull was something along the lines of 50 pounds or so....  kidding, but it was brutal.  Ok, so no sweat, the guys on ALR said all you have to do is make a new trigger and pin it high.  All well and good, except CVA cut out so much wood, I was afraid there wasn't enough wood left to hold a pin.  Here's what I fabbed up.

Here's the original trigger and plate.  Pinned as low as possible.  Great design!



I hack-sawed and filed this little block out of aluminum.  It's held to the original plate with a screw from the top, into the original hole in the plate.  God bless the fastener department at Ace for the teeny metric screws.



No additional wood removal was needed, CVA left a huge mortise.  I still need to do some finish filing on the trigger.  The trigger pull is a LOT better now.




-Ron

[Glenn]

Looks like a great idea.  Same thing I probably need to do with my CVA Kentucky.  It shoots real well and the barrel is very accurate but it's main weakness is the poorly designed trigger.  I'll probably copy your design, if you don't mind.  Thanks for taking the time to post the photos and the tech write-up.

[gregg]

good Idea

[bgf]

Ron,
Looking good, although I was hoping for a set trigger .

[smallpatch]

KY,

One more thing you can do that will improve the trigger significantly.  Leave the front of the trigger bar high, and taper it lower toward the rear to match the angle of the sear bar/pivot.  Then, instead of the sear bar having to slide up the trigger bar as it is engaged, it will move up the bar at the same angle before it goes off.

If you have a copy of "Recreating the American Longrifle, it has a great diagram showing exactly what I'm talking about.

It really works.

Hope that helps

[T*O*F]

Your trigger should look like this.....cut back to the red line.  This makes a better improvement than pinning it high, though that also helps.

[Jim Kibler]

Draw a line between the sear contact point and the sear pivot point.  Pin the trigger along this line if possible.  Cut the trigger to this line as well.  Adjust the distance between pivot point and sear contact point to whatever suits you.  Closer results in lighter pull but more creep.  Further results in a harder pull but less creep.  I started out using around 3/8" or so, but now prefer 9/16" - 5/8".  With a well designed and tuned lock pull weight will be just fine at this distance and creep will be reduced.  All this is just a mechanical ideal.  Small variations will have a fairly small impact on ultimate function.

[LRB]

  I started out using around 3/8" or so, but now prefer 9/16" - 5/8".  With a well designed and tuned lock pull weight will be just fine at this distance and creep will be reduced.  All this is just a mechanical ideal.  Small variations will have a fairly small impact on ultimate function.

  Thankyou Jim. I feel validated. I hate creep and tune all my locks to perform with a minimum of it. I have always used set triggers, but I tune my locks to work very well without having to set them. My unset triggers seldom take more than 2 lbs to trip the sear.

[smallpatch]

TOF,

That's exactly what I so ineptly described.  Sure is easier in a photo.