Southern Banded (ring?) horn?

[G. Elsenbeck]

Hello guys.  Not having taken any formal classes and working strictly from pictures of some of the hornmakers out there I have put together what I think is a southern banded horn.  Not sure if the proper terminology is banded or ringed.  These bands are 3/8 wide and roughly 1/8 thick, give or take.  I turned them using a couple of 'slave' horn sizers.  It was the only method I could think of to turn them.  Is that the proper way to do it?
The tip is turned from a moose antler tip which is very solid, not like deer which generally has a soft, pourous core.   
 

[Trkdriver99]

Do not know if it is a Southern Banded cause I don't know that much, But if it isn't and you are dissatisfied you can send it to me.  I think it is really good looking.

Ronnie

[Ken G]

I tlooks great to me. 
Ken

[Tim Crosby]

 Looks like you got it right to me, Nice Job! And yes turning you bands on a a sacrificial sizer is the way to go, at least for me it is. Are your threads on a separate piece or is it part of the moose antler? Thanks for posting the pics.

Tim C.

[Randy Hedden]

Looks good to me also. I have only gained an interest in screw-tip and banded horns in the last couple of years and I am still trying to figure out all the distinguishing features of each type of these horns.

Randy Hedden

www.harddogrifles.com

[G. Elsenbeck]

Thanks Tim.  Yes, the male thread on the tip is turned from horn and threaded separately before inserting into the antler.  The size die is 1/2 - 13.  I find it better to do it this way in order to get a good seal as putting a die on the tenon once in the antler doesn't seem to give me real good results.  I think  the die I use doesn't allow me to get the threads all the way down to the shoulder.
I also tried turning a smaller piece of antler to use as an applied collar, but the centering hole went off center so I gave up that idea for now.  I'm prepping a right hand carry horn now and will try it on that one or turn another piece. 

[G. Elsenbeck]

Thanks to you all that have commented so far.  Randy, my interest in putting one together is a result of a so. mtn rifle (40 cal.) I've been slowly assembling.  Anyway, some of the distinguishing features I've been able to detect from various sources seems to be (1) may be plain (read as little scrimshaw present), but very well constructed; (2) use of antler or bone for the tip seems to be done often, but not always; (3) use of both dark and whitish horns; (4) use of horn as applied bands or rings; (4) somewhat bulbous base plugs, either plain or as a beehive style; and (5) may or may not have applied collars or integral ones for that matter. 
However, the search continues and the above are only what I can determine from what I've read or seen.  I'm sure there is a forum member somewhere that can give us all some more insight.

[Tim Crosby]

  I think  the die I use doesn't allow me to get the threads all the way down to the shoulder.

 Take a look at the die one side may be tapered to get it started. Once it has bottomed out try turning it upside down and chasing the threads again. May help.

Tim C.

[G. Elsenbeck]

Tim, thanks for the tip.  I do believe I tried it and it did help.  As I recall it got much closer to the shoulder, but in the process of 'snugging' it closer I ended up stripping a couple of threads.  Just goes to show you that threading horn can be touchy especially if the material has both hard and soft areas.  Sometimes hard to tell until you start cutting.
Gary

[Jerry V Lape]

What happens if you relieve the last 1/16 -1/8" of the tenon before the antler shoulder?   Will that let you use the die and still get a tight seat between the tip and the horn body without resorting to the two part assembly? 

I am not a student of this type horn, but I do recall from a seminar at Dixon's that rings could be "welded" into place with appropriate heating which was around 350 degrees as I remember.  Hopefully another on here has more knowledge of the welding process and can help with that.  I do recall the process might be a bit touchy as too much heat and things would go bad quickly. 

[G. Elsenbeck]

Jerry, I think we are on the same wave length.  I have considered 'relieving' the last 1/16 or so and that should help.  The only issue I can see is that the female side would need to be deep enough to allow proper seating.  I would imagine someone out there should be able to thread a little more light on this. 
 "Welding" the bands or rings in place which is referred to as 'heat applied' is what I had done in this example.  They were pretty much 'round' after applying them to sacrificial sizers and turning them.  After this process they are much thinner and easier to apply heat.  What I had done was merely dip them in a hot dye bath which doesn't take more than a couple of seconds to get them pliable again.  After putting them on the horn and 'snugging' them up a little I just set aside to dry before applying pegs.
Gary