Inletting with Forstner bits

[Roger B]

I have decided to put in my lock internals with forstner bits, but have a question.  Do those of you who use this technique just use a bit large enough to accomodate the whole bridle/tumble assembly, or inlet each part individually, removing wood with small bits & finishing with chisels?
Roger B.

[JDK]

After inletting the plate I add parts one at a time and inlet each until the whole lock fits the mortise.....remembering to leave enough clearance for moving parts i.e. the springs and tumbler.  Otherwise I do it as you described, forstner bits then chisels.  Leave as much wood as possible.  Hope that helps.  J.D.

[Roger Fisher]

After inletting the plate I add parts one at a time and inlet each until the whole lock fits the mortise.....remembering to leave enough clearance for moving parts i.e. the springs and tumbler.  Otherwise I do it as you described, forstner bits then chisels.  Leave as much wood as possible.  Hope that helps.  J.D.

Said bit for the sear hole and screw heads, the hated dremel for the edges, and my favcrite quarter inch chisel scrape, scrape scrape and black mixed in petro jelly (as a stretch).

My disclaimer is that I have an awful lot to learn and I'm not getting much younger!

[Blacksmoke]

I do not like wood bits for inletting except the patchbox cavity.  For me inletting  is:  small sharp chisels,  lampblack, Patience and a few cuss words for good measure!       Hugh  Toenjes

[JDK]

[[/quote]Said bit for the sear hole and screw heads, the hated dremel for the edges, and my favcrite quarter inch chisel scrape, scrape scrape and black mixed in petro jelly (as a stretch).


Roger, Those miniature dremel straight router bits work slick in the lock mortise.....but one slip and it's a mess ....I guess PC is safer .  J.D.

[Ron Brimer]

 Use the chisels , as the above builders said , ONE slip lots of cussing and you wont forgive yourself.
RON B

[bgf]

I used a small Forstner bit to hog out space for the mainspring, tumbler, etc.  Don't go full depth or to the full outline of the part, just finish up with chisel, gouge, swearing, soot, etc.  I would say it saves quite a bit of time over chisel alone, since it is easier to enlarge or deepen a hole.  I have a lot of respect for anyone who would dare touch the lock mortise with a Dremel -- those things can get away from you quick, or so I heard!

[California Kid]

I've used one for sear hole and for hogging out mainspring area and I think Mike Brooks does as well.
Most work I do with chisels and gouges however, but they do save a little time.
I'm curious to see Mark Silvers DVD, inletting the lock in one piece. Wallace Gussler shows the start of this technique in Gunsmith of Williamsburg.

[J. Talbert]

After seeing Mark Silver's video, where he inlets the lock without disassembly, I gave it a try.  I have to say I was a little nervous starting the process, but it turned out great.  I'd do it again.
Jeff

[Dennis Glazener]

inletting the lock in one piece.

I tried this on the last rifle that I built and was pleased at how easy it was. The only thing I dislike about it is trying to position the lock correctly without taking it apart. It scared me but worked out properly, probably more by luck than skill!
Dennis

[keweenaw]

The only trick to inletting an assembled lock is the positioning. That's easily accomplished by positioning the lock plate, marking the screw positions and drilling those holes to the correct depth.  The screw heads keep the assembled lock aligned as it goes down.  Other than for drilling the hole for the sear and the screw heads, I don't think there is any use for drills in lock inletting.  After all your inlet should look like the lock grew in the wood when you're done.  He's what you're shooting for.  Someday in my dreams I might be as good as the English guy who did this in the mid 1800's.  Even the bevel on the edge of the mainspring shows up in the inletting.




Tom

[Stophel]

I drill out the excess wood with regular drill bits, stopping just a hair short of the depth, and then chisel the rest out, but I don't use forstner bits.   

[Gaeckle]

I use  fostener bits.....makes inletting the internals quick and neat in appearence. The first time I used these was a learning curve sorta thing, but after some trials it makes so much sense to use them.

[Cody Tetachuk]

The only trick to inletting an assembled lock is the positioning. That's easily accomplished by positioning the lock plate, marking the screw positions and drilling those holes to the correct depth.  The screw heads keep the assembled lock aligned as it goes down.  Other than for drilling the hole for the sear and the screw heads, I don't think there is any use for drills in lock inletting.  After all your inlet should look like the lock grew in the wood when you're done.  He's what you're shooting for.  Someday in my dreams I might be as good as the English guy who did this in the mid 1800's.  Even the bevel on the edge of the mainspring shows up in the inletting.




Tom

If I could inlet like that I would never put a lock in there.

[Don Getz]

Fortunately for me, we have a vertical mill in the barrel shop.    This is what I use to inlet a lock.   I first inlet the bolster
all the way down to the barrel by hand.    I then lay the lock plate on it and draw around it, place it in the mill and determine how deep I will have to go to bring the bolster against the barrel.   I then hog out the lock plate area, close to
the pencil line, then finish by hand until the lock plate fits in and is against the barrel.   I then proceed, part by part, inletting on the mill.   The nice part about this is, you can set the proper depth for each part.   If I didn't have access to a
mill, I would purchase one of the inexpensive mill/drill, usually a bench top model.    They make a great drill press, plus you
can mill small items with them, probably even dovetails.................Don

[Rasch Chronicles]

Snyder,

Thanks for sharing that with us! I've seen that kind of inleting on double rifles and it is just awesome. I have always thought that if someone takes the tmie to inlet the lock like that, the rest ought to be cake!

Best Regards,
Albert “Afghanus” Rasch
The Rasch Outdoor Chronicles™
Scouting for Hogs, Chronicles Style!

[Dr. Tim-Boone]

That English gun is incredible . 

Don, would you be willing to post a link to an example of this inexpensive bench top vertical mill/drills???   Are there some bits that you can simply use in a bench press???  I don't think I have ever seen a mill..........

[James Rogers]

That inlet is surgical. So far, most of the inlets I have seen on English pieces are 18th century. At what point in the 19th century did they begin to do work like that? Maybe turn of the century with the engraving changes?

[Don Getz]

Tim.........Do you have a Grizzly store down your way.   They sell all kinds of machinery, mostly foreign made stuff, but
pretty good.    They have table top "Mill and Drill" machines in the $800-$1000 range.  Might also check out "Jet" machines, same quality.........Don

[Old Ford2]

Ounce you use a milling machine, you will never want to use a drill press again.
Yeah, I know it is not the "OLD WAY", But doing the lock, cutting the dovetails, even doing the barrel channel & ramrod channel.
Don,t worry, there is still a lot of work to do, but it does save time, cuts back on grave errors ( can create errors if you are in a hurry)
I bought mine used, best $500 spent on shop tools.
Old Ford









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