Early Lancaster take 4 - First "stab" at carving

[Curtis]

In my previous installment, I posted my progress with the lock panels.  Here is a link to that post.
http://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=15993.msg151252#msg151252

I have concluded that while the panels were not without their issues, they were as good as they were likely to ever get on this particular build.  Though they are far from ideal, it was time to move on. (Note to Jim, Rich and others that tried to get across to me what a lock panel should look like in cross section - I think I finally get what you were trying to convey to me, even if it is too late for this rifle.  Hopefully I can improve on the next build).

The primary purpose of this rifle is to be a vessel of learning, to help me understand how to build a flint longrifle.  The secondary purpose of this rifle is to become my primary "squirrel gitter" gun.  As my hunting companion it will be a constant reminder of  what worked out and what didn't.

That being said, I have decided to do some carving on this rifle, knowing it may not turn out the best but definitely wanting the learning experience.  As alluded to in the title of this post, this will be my first stab at carving... I have read a few excellent tutorials and seen several methods of carving documented, each style with it own merits.  I acquired a copy of "The Manual of Traditional Woodcarving" and read through it.  After watching a short video posted on YouTube by Homer dangler, I was inspired to try his method of outlining and decided to see if I could make it work for me.  For those interested, here is a link to that video:  http://homerdangler.com/video-excerpt-of-homer-carving-the-kentucky-long-rifle/ The bottom line I guess is that for me to learn something, sometimes I just have to jump in headfirst and just try it.  The biggest problem with this method is occasionally you hit your head on a rock. 

I have started on the lock panels and tang area, they are roughed in and I have started cleanup of the waste areas.   Here are a few progress pics:

Lines in pencil:





Getting Started:









Beginning cleanup:







My progress so far:







I need to add some dimensional modeling to the leaflets on my simple tang carving.  Any suggestions of methodology would be most welcome.  Actually any carving or cleanup advice is welcome, as I will be doing some carving on the buttstock and possibly forestock as well.

Thanks for looking,

Curtis

[hortonstn]

curt,to me what you've done looks great you'll be amazed at what you've done
when the finish is on. i am almost at that stage now on my lancaster,
i'm trying to slow down as they say and fine tune everything.
i do realize nothing is perfect even though i want it to be
keep up the good work
paul

[Meteorman]

I'm lifting some text from a post by Captchee (thanks Captchee!) about Mary May, on another thread here:

"Here is a link to  the video of that  show .  5th down from the top .
  very good video to watch . very talented woman "

http://www.pbs.org/woodwrightsshop/schedule/29season_video.html

I know you said you still have some dimensional work to do on the leaves - she shows how to do that pretty well on an acanthus design. 
one thing that really stuck in my head from her tutorial was that NONE of the original flat is left on the floral work.

[Ed Wenger]

Curtis,

Your off and running, definitely on the right path!  I think your lock panels turned out well.  I would have extended the front lower lines to follow the panels (like you did with the rear), not turn them towards the trigger guard, maybe put less of an arch on the side plate top line, but you've done well with them.  You have the incised line of the panels at the right spot, where the radius starts, which I think helps them look not as steep, if that makes sense.  For what its worth, I think they look good!

I know everyone has their method, but I really like to stab.  It especially helps me with round areas, like the finials, and the radius on top near the breach.  A gouge of the proper size makes for nice, clean lines.

With a little bit of relief, the leaves will look even better.  I know you said you plan on doing that, and will be a nice effect.

A suggestion that has helped me greatly; draw your lines as skinny as possible.  This will ensure that you get things symmetrical (not that yours aren't).  That way you won't be asking yourself, "do I stay on the outside, or inside, of this line".  Another thing that's helped me is to draw the design, like the leaf pattern, on paper, then transfer it to the wood with carbon paper.  For me, its much easier to work on paper than wood, plus, you get those skinny lines.

Again, I think you've done a very good job, especially for a first attempt.  Keep up the good work and keep us posted.

                  Ed

[Pete G.]

You seem to be on the right track, but I would round off some of the angular areas on the tang carving. Rococo art uses flowing lines that are mostly assymertical. Sharp angles and straight lines are seldom if ever found on longrifle carving.

[Curtis]

Thanks for all your comments and suggestions, guys.  The Mary May video is just awesome, that would have been a great one to have seen a couple of days earlier! What a talented woman.
Ed, I have to agree I need to draw finer lines, I will skinny up any future lines before cutting. As for the line on the bottom of the lock panel curving back towards the trigger guard - I may have to make a change to that before I am done.  The line actually picks up on the sweep of the trigger guard bow when the guard is in place and I liked the effect.  If it ends up too distracting I will have to modify it.  I stabbed in the radius's near the breech, I was too chicken to try and cut those with the V gouge.  I can also see I need to obtain a better gouge....

I'll have to see if it will be possible for me to soften the sharp angles on the leaf when I add some dimension to it.

[rick landes]

Your lines may benefit from a bit of straightening with the use of a fine gritted emery board or a fine slightly curved flat needle file. Use a straight edge to check if your eye cannot tell. The edges are a bit less flowing than what I think you will be happy with...go over them a couple of times over a few days (I am not saying to re-do but to check again. I find things that I miss when my eyes are tired that the next day or two seeming glaring...)
A very slight under cut along the edge of your cuts will add more depth to your efforts.
Look at it for several angles in using different light sources to check for imperfections (if any) as the stain will tell.
One of the pics shows you cutting to lower the back ground cutting with the grain. Be very wary with this type cut to me it is very easy to cut too deep as the grain can get follwed versus the level of cut or line you are wanting to follow.

Again, I have very much enjoyed watching your progress. MANY THANKS!

[Jim Kibler]

Good first attempt at carving.  Your tang design could be turned into acanthus leaf forms pretty easily with a V-tool and a little paring with a knife.  Might be something to consider.  Basically you would be creating the small lobes on each leaf, which would in turn allow the remaining section to be rounded a bit.  Kind of difficult to explain.  Just an option of course.  I would encourage you to study original longrifle carving designs as well.  Nothing wrong with coming up with something else, but emulating original work will provide a strong foundation.  Good job and thanks for showing your progress.

Jim

[Curtis]

Rick, thanks for the suggestions.  I have a couple of sets of small rifflers and files that I will put to use to help straighten and clean up those lines.

Jim, your words of encouragement mean a great deal as your work has long been a source of inspiration for me.   As for transforming my tang design into an acanthus leaf, I will study it over and see if I aesthetically modify it.  I found a copy of "Guide for drawing the acanthus, and every description of ornamental foliage" online and downloaded a copy for reference.  Anyone interested in the book can download it here: http://www.engravingschool.com/Drawing_Acanthus.pdf
Is there a particular knife or blade style you would recommend for paring?  Also what sizes & angle of V-tools do you use most often?

Ed Wenger, if you are still following along.... I was admiring the various styles of carving on your website.  Very nice!  You mentioned in your earlier post that you prefer the stabbing method of carving.  I was curious what you do to soften the edges after stabbing (such as the scallops on your fowlers)?  Do you use a file or emery board as mention by Rick? Or maybe a gouge?

Curtis

[Ed Wenger]

Curtis,

Thanks for the kind words!  I like to use a straight skew when I stab wood.  The "V" shape of the tool produces a cut that gently "leans" into the design.  To answer your question, mostly I use a fine scotch bright pad, or fine steel wool to knock off the hard edges.  Another thing to consider, especially in reference to scallops, is that the stab is fairly shallow, so there's not a lot of wood above the plane.  You get great depth by removing wood from inside the design, if that makes sense.  Hope that helps.

              Ed

[Curtis]

Ed,

Thanks for the reply, and yes! The info you provided helps considerably!

Am I correct in assuming you use a couple of diferent widths of straight skew chisels?

Curtis

[Ed Wenger]

Curtis,

I just use one size, not even sure what it is, I'm thinking around 1/4" or 3/8", anything you're comfortable with will work.  Like I said, for curves (especially sharp ones) I find it better to use a gouge of the same radius. 

              Ed

[Curtis]

Thanks, Ed.