Pins for securing side rails on patchbox

[Bioprof]

I know that this is kind of trivial, but I want to do this right.   I'm in the process of recreating a M. Fordney longrifle and am in the process of installing the patchbox.   In Kindig's book, it looks like he used pins rather than screws to secure the side rails.  Because the pictures are in black and white, I can't tell if the pins are steel or if he used brass.   Anyone know what he used to secure the siderails on the patchbox?   

[Larry Luck]

I just sent you an email.  From what I have seen, I believe he used brass pins, which is what I used on my Fordney interpretation.
The metal of the pins I purchased had a different alloy and looked a little different from the sheet brass.  To avoid this, you could form your own.
Good luck.  And please post some photos.  Inquiring minds want to know.
LArry Luck

[Bioprof]

Here's a couple of pictures installing the patchbox finial:

[don getz]

I'm not sure what Fordney used for pins, but most of the Snyder county guns, of the same period, basically used iron, or
steel pins to fasten inlays and patchboxes, where they didn't use screws....Don

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

Jacob Kuntz used both brass and copper nails to hold down his inlays.  Andrew Verner used large brass escutcheon nails on his PB's.

[JCKelly]

The Kentucky Rifle, copyright 1972 by Merrill Lindsay, photographs by Bruce Pendleton, has a color photo of a Fordney, No. 7, with a patchbox head near identical to yours. In this photo three failrly substantial brass pins show up. This rifle was part of a display at The Historical Society of York County. Lived in York then, lived at this exhibit as much as I could. 

[Bioprof]

I bought a package of brass brads today and am going to have to take them back.   It turned out they were just brass plated, but not marked as such on the package.     

[David Veith]

Just when through making pins. I had made up in the past a nail maker. (00 size counter sink I THINK IT WAS. ) Basicly a fine counter sink with a over size hole coming from the other side. In my case a # 32 drill . I use a broken drill. As a push rod to push the nail out.  In making the nail when like this. I took a peice of 3/16 rod that was about a 1" long chuck it up in a drill and turn it into a thin long nail shape. Then I cut it it off about 1 1/2 time the ° and ponnd it into the counter sink. File clean tap out your nail and you have your nail. If you have lines in your nail I would start over. Sheet metal nail and I have not got a long at all
David Veith

[Bioprof]

I've been all over town trying to find brass nails, which I understand is what Fordney used to attach the side rails for the patchbox.  So I finally decided just to make some by turning down some brass rod in my drill press.  Here are the pins ready to attach the side rail:

[Bioprof]

Here's a picture after attaching one of the side rails.   I see that the nail head in the middle is visible, so I either countersunk it too much or the head wasn't beveled right.   The other two nail heads are almost invisible.   The fact that one of the nail heads is visible doesn't really bother me though, as you can see this in some of the pictures of original rifles in Kindig's book.

[mr. no gold]

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      Melchoir Fordney seems to have used small brass pins to hold the side plates in place. One near the buttplate, one near the hinge and one in the middle. They are placed roughly in the middle of the available space (centered length wise in the side plate). At least this is the case in his later percussion rifles. Not certain about earlier pieces, but would guess that it was the same. Have never seen him use screws.
Hope this helps some.
Dick

[David Veith]

They look just like the ones I made out of GS How did you turn them into brass? 
David Veith

[JTR]

I've made small nails by clamping my drill in the vise, then using a small finishing nail with the pointy end in the chuck, spin it, and file the nail to the shank and head shape I need.
After getting close I file some flats on it if required to match the original, then rust it up good.
Maybe anal, I know, but that's the way I do it.
Original Dickert inlay nail on the left, about 5/16" long,,, mine on the right. Once tapped into place, the head looks just like the original.
John

[Bioprof]

I finished attaching the other side rail today.   It looks to me like it's begging to be engraved.