stock finishing parts on or off

[mjm46@bellsouth.net]

When finishing a stock do you leave any furniture on the stock or keep it off till finished or some of each? If finishing with parts off, how do you deal with the problems of finish plugging inlay mortises?

[Long John]

The only metal part Ileave on a gun for finishing is the muzzle cap - it is rivetted on.  I remove everything else unless it is a nailed-in-place inlay or wire inlay, of course.

After applying sealer and finish I use a small angled scraper to scrape out any finish that is preventing the installation of let-in parts.

Best Regards,

[Jim Kibler]

I stain and seal with everything off.  Then install all the metal parts and apply the rest of the finish.  If finished with parts out, you run the risk of them not fitting when the gun is done.  This can be from finish build up or shrinkage from the stock being in the sun to cure the finish.  Finish can be scraped out of inlets, but no need to bother with this method.  Good sun is almost required for curing a linseed oil finish and this can cause the stock wood to move around without metal parts in place.

[rich pierce]

I've never tried that but will.  Do you ever experience any problems getting , say, the lock out after finish being applied with it in place?

[Swampwalker]

Like Jim said, stain and seal, and then replace most of the hardware.  I leave the lock, trigger, and triggerguard off until completely done because they get in the way.

[Dr. Tim-Boone]

I stain and seal with everything off.  Then install all the metal parts and apply the rest of the finish.  If finished with parts out, you run the risk of them not fitting when the gun is done.  This can be from finish build up or shrinkage from the stock being in the sun to cure the finish.  Finish can be scraped out of inlets, but no need to bother with this method.  Good sun is almost required for curing a linseed oil finish and this can cause the stock wood to move around without metal parts in place.

I have found this same process to be the easiest and results in the best metal to wood fit. The lock and all come right out afterward. I have had no problems when using Chambers Traditional oil finish, which I believe is a medium oil finish with a linseed oil base(?).  I usually let the gun dry overnite between coats and for several days before pulling the lock etc. just so I won't smudge things up. Setting it in the sun for a day will usually speed the process quite a bit.

[Jim Kibler]

I've never tried that but will.  Do you ever experience any problems getting , say, the lock out after finish being applied with it in place?

No, I've never had any real difficulty with this method.  You will have to clean the dried oil from hardware when the finish is complete.  I just pull the hardware out and rub with some solvent.  You can soak in some solvent if it doesn't want to come off.

[Jim Kibler]

I have found this same process to be the easiest and results in the best metal to wood fit. The lock and all come right out afterward. I have had no problems when using Chambers Traditional oil finish, which I believe is a medium oil finish with a linseed oil base(?).  I usually let the gun dry overnite between coats and for several days before pulling the lock etc. just so I won't smudge things up. Setting it in the sun for a day will usually speed the process quite a bit.

I dont' think the Chambers finish is a linseed oil base.  It doesn't smell like linseed oil.  I think it  likely has a tung oil base.