Need help with Flint Lock/Set Triggers

[C. Cash]

Hey Gents,

Got my first flintlock here about a month ago and had a couple of rookie questions.  I'm having trouble with the triggers/lock.  After I took my lock off and sprayed the interior down with lube and reassembled, it seems that my rear set trigger does not want to work right.  Did I reassemble the lock incorrectly...ie does the hammer or triggers have to be in a certain position when I put it back into the lock mortise?  Hopefully I haven't goofed it up here.

The rear trigger has become difficult to set, and sometimes when pulled hard enough the rear set trigger will trip the lock without even using the front trigger.  I've noted  other times that even when the rear trigger does not click or set, the front trigger will trip the lock with very light pressure.  Any suggestions on what to do?

[Sam Everly]

It sounds to me like the adj screw on your triggers has moved . Back it out and see if it gets better . You may have to put some loctite on it after you get it set again . 

[C. Cash]

Thank you...I will try it in the morning and see where I'm at.  I tried fooling with it a little..tightening and untightening the set screw but no luck yet.  I will try backing it out a bit more.  Thanks again.  Chris

[keweenaw]

It's possible that you replaced the lock with the triggers unset.  Depending on how the triggers are adjusted you may have bent one or the other of the trigger bars with the end of the sear.  Take your lock out and try setting the triggers.  With your lock out the triggers should set easily, if not you've probably bent a bar.  A bar that is bent even a few thousands of an inch will rub against the other bar of the trigger plate giving considerable resistance in setting. If you have bent a bar it will be necessary to remove the triggers and straighten the bent bar.  Most trigger bars are hardened and it will take considerable care to straighten it without breaking it.  It's also possible that you didn't bend a bar but have bent one of the pins that hold the triggers into the trigger plate which will require replacing the bent pin.

Tom

[C. Cash]

Hi Tom,

With the lock out, the triggers seem fine and seem to work normally with my untrained eye.   I've thought the same thing...that I've bent something somehow.  I'll take a closer look in the morning as I am about give out tonight.  Thanks for the help fellas.

PS...so, should I set the rear trigger before I put the lock back in the stock?

[Wyoming Mike]

It sounds like you got the set trigger too tight in the inlet when you tightened up  the tang screw. 

While you have the triggers out watch how they work when you set them.  When you pull the rear trigger you will notice the front trigger bar move up a little then come back down when the trigger is set.

From what you said it sounds like the front trigger guard is resting directly on the lock sear.  When you set the trigger that small movement is pushing directly on the sear so you are actually pushing against the sear and tripping the lock.  You may have to shim the trigger plate to move it down a little and give you more clearance.

[keweenaw]

Mike is probably correct since your triggers work normally with the lock out.  Just loosen the tang bolt a turn or two so that the trigger plate can move down a few thousands of an inch.  If the lock and triggers  now work correctly, putting a thin shim under the front of the trigger plate will cure your problem.

Anytime you are putting a lock back in a gun it's a good idea to make sure the sear bar is above the trigger bar.  On some set triggers, this is not a problem, on others either the front or rear bar may flip up where the sear bar could push on the side of it.  If the triggers are set, the bars should always be below the sear bar.

Tom

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

Having taken the trigger plate out of the stock, and then replaced it, it is possible that you overtightened the tang screw, and drew the trigger plate up into the inlet.  Now the critical clearance between the triggers and the sear's bar is insufficient.  And backing out the tang screw to lower the trigger plate in the inlet may have everything looser than you may wish.  In that case, you'll need to remove metal from the tops of the triggers themselves, to regain the clearance that allows you to set the triggers without engaging the sear bar with the front trigger.

[C. Cash]

Thank you for the input fellas.  I looked at all the parts and everything looks pretty normal, but just can't the rear set trigger to work right for beans.  It worked fine when I got it from the builder....did not touch the tang screw at all or take the triggers out.  I am just looking at the hole through the lock opening when I say the triggers look and function fine.  The only thing I have touched is the lock, taking it off to lube the innards, and then after replacing it things seem to have gone awry.  So, at this point I am going to try and drop the builder a line and see if he can give me a hand with this.  I think it may be over my head at this point but I will continue to digest the info here and try and come up with a solution in the meantime.  Thanks again for your kind replys.

[Tim Crosby]

 Have you tried setting the triggers and then putting the lock in? The sear bar may be going under the trip bar on the trigger. Just a thought.

Tim C.

[C. Cash]

Hey Tim,

Yes, I tried to insert the lock with the set trigger engaged, and with the cock at it's varioius positions also.  Of course tried the same thing with the rear trigger unset. This is an L & R lock but not sure what brand triggers(whatever is standard with the TVM Early Lancaster Kit).  I will try to back off the tang screw slightly to see if that helps.  Thanks!

[keweenaw]

It's also possible that there is a bit of wood somewhere that's interfering with the lock functioning.  Any builder I know would be glad to correct the problem for his customer.

Tom

[B.Habermehl]

Just saw your post. Come on over and we will get it squared away.  BJH

[C. Cash]

Thanks B.J.!  For the record....B.J. has been great to work with, and the rifle he completed for me is spectacular(will try and get pics up eventually).  I just hated to bother him again as he is always working hard at his real job, and I wanted to learn how to do some of these things myself.  Also wanted to avoid the LOOONG drive back to Lewisburg, but back I go!. Thanks for all the input and support here.

[Roger Fisher]

Thanks B.J.!  For the record....B.J. has been great to work with, and the rifle he completed for me is spectacular(will try and get pics up eventually).  I just hated to bother him again as he is always working hard at his real job, and I wanted to learn how to do some of these things myself.  Also wanted to avoid the LOOONG drive back to Lewisburg, but back I go!. Thanks for all the input and support here.

Please let us all know what ol BJ found as the problem and the fix!!

[C. Cash]

Will do Roger!

[C. Cash]

Hey Roger,

Here is BJ's fix from his email, parenthesis mine:

"Relieved the fit(of the lock...it was a bit tight in the mortise). One arm of the set trigger was about .015 too
high, ground that a bit. Backed off a bit on the main spring of the set
trigger and reset the sear engagement."

He said he has dry fired it until his fingers were sore and no failures.  Can't wait to pick it up and make some smoke!

[Roger Fisher]

Hey Roger,

Here is BJ's fix from his email, parenthesis mine:

"Relieved the fit(of the lock...it was a bit tight in the mortise). One arm of the set trigger was about .015 too
high, ground that a bit. Backed off a bit on the main spring of the set
trigger and reset the sear engagement."

He said he has dry fired it until his fingers were sore and no failures.  Can't wait to pick it up and make some smoke!

I had one in my mitts recent with same problem and the resetting of the tension screw on the #4 Davis double sett and stoning off a bit of the trigger bar gave it enough clearance that she could enter the full draw notch with no interference and that was the fix for that one!   Thanks for posting BJ's fix!