Leather preservative

[Ahtuwisae]

Not sure which thread to put this on but this seemed the right spot.  Looking for a leather conditioner/preservative that is all natural products.  I have a bear grease/beeswax mix and thought of that but was not sure.  Hoping someone here might have an idea or solution...thanks for any help you can offer.

[davec2]

Pecards....museums use it.  You can get it all sorts of places including Amazon.

http://www.pecard.com/

[mr. no gold]

Pecards salve is a good preservative, but it has characteristics that make it a bit strange, unless the formula has been modified. Last time I used it the surface of the leather stayed kind of tacky, or even gummy. And, there seemed to be a slight color shift as well. Still, it is regarded as a top product since it is non petroleum based.
Another preservative is Lexol which is used in car leather preservation. I tried it, too, and the leather stayed supple for a time, but seemed to harden once more after some time.
You might want to contact Steve Lalioff who restores old leather and makes new highly specialized leather items (fire buckets, etc.), as to what he would recommend. You can reach him through the contemporary blog site since he is listed there.
Good luck on your search and be sure to let us know what you find out, if you would.
Dick

[mjm46@bellsouth.net]

I have a quart of Pure Neetsfoot oil. Make sure it is pure because sometimes there are neetsfoot oil solutions that has Petroleum distilates included, that is not good for leather. You should be able to get the real stuff at any saddle and tack/feed store. It's expensive but it goes a long way, only a couple of drops rubbed in is all you need.

[mjm46@bellsouth.net]

I just remembered another good use of pure neetsfoot. In the winter if you get chapped dry skin on your hands rub a little neetsfoot in better than any sissy hand cream and it has a manly aroma.

[BrownBear]

Right or wrong, I've always followed the advice of an old-school cobbler and shoe maker.  He said match today's preservative to the original treatment of the leather.  Mix-and-match often results in weird results, and even failure.

[TPH]

I hate to disagree with Davec2 and mr. no gold but Pecards is to be avoided on antique and collector leather goods - it contains petroleum (read the label, its on there) and will eventually damage the leather. It does have it's supporters but I know of no museums that have trained conservators on staff that will use it. I recently saw in the catalog of a well known and respected militaria dealer this description of a WW1 British leather battle jerkin, "This item, sadly, has been Pecarded to death".

I myself use pure neatsfoot oil, not neatsfoot oil compound, as Micah says, there are things in there that we don't want. I know that many seem to have a problem with neatsfoot oil but it is what I was taught to use by the harness maker who I learned from and, used properly, it does an excellent job. Yes, it darkens leather but a little goes a long way so don't overdo it. For an item that sees constant heavy use it should be applied twice a year after cleaning.  For an item that sees occasional use, it can be applied once every two years. Again, apply lightly, don't drown the item. Lexol is good, it is water based and seems to do less harm than many of the so-called "mink oil" or snow seal preparations. Always check the label to see what the preparation contains - if it has petroleum products or byproducts, find something else. Another good item is Ko-Cho-Line Leather Dressing out of England and it seems to do a good job, if I remember correctly it contains lanolin.

I do have to say that Pecards and mink oil and others do a fine job when used on everyday use boots and shoes as well as items that do not fall under the collector heading. These items can be used until worn out and then thrown away, no harm done.

For items that fall under the heading of antique or collector's goods, doing nothing is best. Keep the piece out of direct sunlight in a comfortable 60% humidity and a comfortable temperature and handle it carefully and you will notice a halt in deterioration.

Hopefully Chuck will chime in with his advice, he is the most knowledgeable member here when it comes to leather and his opinion is gold, follow him and you can't go wrong. (Even if he disagrees with me. )

[LRB]

  I am not recommending the following, BUT, 30 years ago I bought a sixgun I had been looking for. I figured on making a holster for it, but found exactly what I was going to make in a box of junk that somehow got left with me. The thread was rotted, so I resewed it. The leather was dry and stiff with a few minor surface cracks, although it  seemed strong enough yet. Having nothing else on hand, and really nothing to lose, I soaked it in 30 W motor oil, non-detergent, and worked in a little vaseline on the inside. That holster is still in use, and is as good, acually better, than it was the day I soaked it in motor oil. I am pretty sure the holster was 15 or 20 years old when I got it, so lets say on the conservative side it is 40 years old, and maybe over 50. Not recommending, just saying.

[heinz]

I use Connoly's hide care.  I learned it from holster collectores of the expensive german automatic variety.  It is a great  restorative and cleaner with no petroleum additives or bug and fungus encouraging characteristics.

This is where I got mine. 
www.motorcarsltd.com/gifts/connolly.html

[T.C.Albert]

Nobody has mentioned cod liver oil yet...
TC

[TPH]

Nobody has mentioned cod liver oil yet...
TC

I should have but didn't. It is good and does work well.

[Clark Badgett]

  I am not recommending the following, BUT, 30 years ago I bought a sixgun I had been looking for. I figured on making a holster for it, but found exactly what I was going to make in a box of junk that somehow got left with me. The thread was rotted, so I resewed it. The leather was dry and stiff with a few minor surface cracks, although it  seemed strong enough yet. Having nothing else on hand, and really nothing to lose, I soaked it in 30 W motor oil, non-detergent, and worked in a little vaseline on the inside. That holster is still in use, and is as good, acually better, than it was the day I soaked it in motor oil. I am pretty sure the holster was 15 or 20 years old when I got it, so lets say on the conservative side it is 40 years old, and maybe over 50. Not recommending, just saying.

This is the second such instance I've heard of this. A good friend of mine bought a WW2 German officers belt when he was stationed in E. Berlin in the mid 80s, he did exactly as you described and he is still wearing that belt to this day as an every day trousers belt. He describbed it as ratty and dry when he bought it.

[marcusb]

To soften dry leather I  use Olive Oil, to preserve I use deer fat.

[Tim Crosby]

 I do not know what is in it, but I have had good luck with Dr. Jackson’s Hide Rejuvenator from Tandy.  I tried to set a daub on fire but it would not burn so I am thinking no petroleum, maybe not very scientific.
  Peanut oil or Extra Virgin Olive is also good. You don’t want them to build up, so heat the piece a little with a hair dryer so it will sink in better, once cool buff it with a piece of Cotton cloth of a piece of Sheep skin. 
  I used to use all three of these on Rawhide and Kangaroo lace for braiding and for restoring harness. 

 Tim C.

[LRB]

  

 I am not recommending the following, BUT, 30 years ago I bought a sixgun I had been looking for. I figured on making a holster for it, but found exactly what I was going to make in a box of junk that somehow got left with me. The thread was rotted, so I resewed it. The leather was dry and stiff with a few minor surface cracks, although it  seemed strong enough yet. Having nothing else on hand, and really nothing to lose, I soaked it in 30 W motor oil, non-detergent, and worked in a little vaseline on the inside. That holster is still in use, and is as good, acually better, than it was the day I soaked it in motor oil. I am pretty sure the holster was 15 or 20 years old when I got it, so lets say on the conservative side it is 40 years old, and maybe over 50. Not recommending, just saying.

This is the second such instance I've heard of this. A good friend of mine bought a WW2 German officers belt when he was stationed in E. Berlin in the mid 80s, he did exactly as you described and he is still wearing that belt to this day as an every day trousers belt. He describbed it as ratty and dry when he bought it.

Kinda makes one wonder about petroleum. if scientists are correct, it is an animal product, or a mix of plant and animal in it's origins. What I used was detergent free motor oil.  Vaselene is pure enough to eat if one desired, and softens, lubricates, and soothes the human skin any where it is applied, while also doing no harm to human inerds if ingested. What is in petroleum that would cause harm to leather, and what harm can come from non-detergent motor oil. Calling Chuck Burrows.

[Tim Crosby]

 As an afterthought, don’t think in the more is better mode, there is a saturation point, use a little and see what you get. Picard’s has petroleum in it and is widely used. Check out   http://www.davidmorgan.com/index.php?cPath=7  they sell some high dollar leather products and recommend Picard’s  on them.
 I have never used it as the three I listed above have worked for me.

 Tim C.

[Gary]

When I worked at a Fine Arts Museum, the chief conservator told me to use Renaissance Wax as it is PH neutral, good for wood, metal and leather.   It was developed by the British Museum specifically for object preservation.  You can buy it at any Woodcraft store.

[Clark Badgett]

Kinda makes one wonder about petroleum. if scientists are correct, it is an animal product, or a mix of plant and animal in it's origins. What I used was detergent free motor oil.  Vaselene is pure enough to eat if one desired, and softens, lubricates, and soothes the human skin any where it is applied, while also doing no harm to human inerds if ingested. What is in petroleum that would cause harm to leather, and what harm can come from non-detergent motor oil. Calling Chuck Burrows.

I'm certainly no expert, but the only negative I've heard of petroleum products in relation to leather working/products has to do mainly with the thread. I've always been told by several long time leather craftsmen that petro based products will over time weaken the linen thread.

[mr. no gold]

Forgot one more thing: get some pure lanolin, (it's yellow and smells like a barnyard), but it is a key ingredient in all skin/leather. Part of the drying/aging process in leather is evaporation of the lanolin. It is completely natural and can be obtained at most drug companies including some drug strores. I put it on dry powder horns, mostly. Sure makes your hands soft.
Dick

[Ahtuwisae]

Thank you all for the input.  Will let you know how it turns out.

[T.C.Albert]

The petroleum based oil, especially motor, used on leather question is a good one, and you definitely cant argue with LRB's personal and positive experience using it. However,in theory motor oils are formulated to prevent surfaces from contacting , and I believe that they are not absorbed into the internal leather fibers like compatible animal oils are...in fact motor oils may emulsify and remove the natural oils found in leather fibers, and prevent those crucial oils fromever being replaced..eventually causing those fibers to irreparably shrink and pack, causing the loss of flexability and premature cracking. Or so I understand it.

Though it must work at times it seems, generally petroleum based oils are avoided and as I understand it their use is not recommended by the leather industry at large.
TC

[Curt Lyles]

   I use equal parts of bees wax castor oil and neets foot oil .warm it up in a small cast iron skillet on the wood stoveand stir it up real good .If its too stiff add more oil.Its all natural  ingredienets and  it works just fine.  Curt

[FL-Flintlock]

It's leather ... we use cow oil, hot pressed over an open fire is best because you can eat the leftovers.     

Somewhere I have a book listing products that have been either approved or banned by whatever the group/organization is that does the testing.  I'm not sure what all is covered but I know there's a section on leather and as soon as I find it, I'll be happy to post it.

Most refined petroleum oil and petroleum distillates are hard on leather, when I was doing a lot of work in the oil business a pair of work boots would last no more than 3-4 months.  The petrol LRB used 30 years ago is nothing like the petrol of today - today's oil is far better at lubrication but also far worse at damaging stuff that's not metallic.  Even non-detergent contains an additive package and must comply with all the nanny-state bull manure.  Three decades ago the oil had a high wax & sulfur content and did NOT contain modern additives that make the leather grain swell until it bursts.  Depending on the environmental conditions, the majority of LRB's oil likely evaporated within the first few months leaving being the low-percentage microcrystalline wax, sulfur and an amount of oil tar - the sulfur content helps prevent damage from microbal infestation.  EVOO is an oxidizer and it's Ph can vary greatly depending on the soil and growing conditions, it's also curing oil and will eventually harden if it doesn't turn rancid first.

[LRB]

  A good explaination FL-Flintlock. What you say makes sense, and I believe you are probably correct about the motor oil being much different then.

[mjm46@bellsouth.net]

When I worked at a Fine Arts Museum, the chief conservator told me to use Renaissance Wax as it is PH neutral, good for wood, metal and leather.   It was developed by the British Museum specifically for object preservation.  You can buy it at any Woodcraft store.

This wax works good for a final finish on your rifles overall and also all the metal parts including the barrel. Really good good stuff.