Jaeger Build in 62cal

[Nailcreek]

I've a "kit" Jaeger which I'm returning to after a good many years and would like to some feedback as to the following ...

1.  Muzzlecap - should this be brass or horn?  If horn, what material should be used and where might it be found?  Any suggestions on how to work the material would be welcome too.

2.  Suggestions on how to make the black and white "star" inlay in the checkrest would be helpful too.

Thanks much!

Kerry Brunner

[Dave B]

There are several good books availble on Jaeger rifles you can use for reference. Shumway's our Germanic Heritage collected articles, is a good place to start. Both horn and brass were common but some areas tended toward more one than another. Who's parts set are you using? I throw this out there just as an observation and could be mistaken. Earlier Jagers tended to have chiseled brass caps and later ones tended to have horn approching the early 1800's. I think you could go with either an not go wrong. Cast caps you can some times find at track of the wolf, Maybe The Rifle Shoppe may have one on the shelf.

[Nailcreek]

It's the Pecatonica kit, I purchased going on 10 yrs ago. 62 cal Getz swamped barrel and the Germanic flintlock.  I do have the Shumway book, and intend upon spending more time with it after I do some of the basic inletting.

[Lucky R A]

    When I make a variegated star inlay I use ivory and ebony piano keys from a old piano.  Used "old piano" keys can also be obtained from piano tuners.  They usually will give you old keys that are chipped or, or sell them at a very good price.  Make a pattern of the final overall size of your inlay and then lay out the individual ivory and contrasting ebony pieces.  Carefully cut and file each piece to fit onto the pattern.  I then assemble the entire inlay on a 1/24-1/16 piece of veneer.  I then glue all the pieces to the veneer backing.  After the glue has set I carefully cut the veneer backing into the overall shape of the inlay.  This allows you to inlet the entire inlay as one piece.  This type of inlay is usually glued into place in the stock inlet.  
     For horn nosecaps you simply use the heavy dark end of a cow horn.  Cut the horn to the correct size, boil it in peanut oil until the horn becomes pliable and wipe off the excess peanut oil and wrap the horn around your prepared nosecap area and tape it into place with strapping tape until the horn cools and hardens.  You can then glue or rivet it into place and finish as desired...
Ron

[Nailcreek]

Ron ... suggestions on how to boil with peanut oil - double boiler?

[Dave B]

I was told by a horn maker that horn has a range that it will form the best at, 320 degrees F or there abouts. if you go over 340 you will deep fry the horn. I use a heat gun to form the horn pieces I have done up to now. You dont want to burn the horn just get it soft enough to form it.

[Lucky R A]

Kerry,
       Dave is correct that you do not want to heat the horn too hot, just enough to make it pliable.  The peanut oil is quicker than water which is sometimes used, plus the horn has less spring back.  I have always heated the oil directly on top of  the stove with the horn piece in it.  I then wear leather gloves to handle the horn while installing it onto the gun....some times a third hand is helpful as well.   

[omark]

i have also been told that if you get the oil too hot, it may combust, so have a lid for the pan ready to smother the fire if it does happen. another thing, i have used canola oil to good effect.      mark

[jeager58]

on a lot of the jeagers that were built using horn or bone the nose cap wasn't the only part made of this material. side plates, inlays  pipes, and but plates were also made from horn, bone and ivory. I think if all your hardware is brass then make the nose cap out of brass....phil

[JCKelly]

Bone was popular.

The Honorable Company of Horners (think that's right) have a website with good info on softening horn. If my feeble memory serves, they bake them in a small toaster oven, rather than boiling in oil. A specific temperature is noted.

[Dphariss]

Ron ... suggestions on how to boil with peanut oil - double boiler?

Be careful boiling it in oil just a few seconds is enough. Scott Sibley uses this to apply base plugs to horns.
10 seconds in hot oil could be too much.
Nor does the oil need to "boil".  300-375 is hot enough so direct heat is needed. SHUT OFF THE HEAT before putting the horn in the oil.
I don't especially like the hot oil method but its much faster than boiling water.

Dan

[t.caster]

I've always used Ebony for the nosecap on Jaegers. A local wood supply, Johnson's Workbench, in Charlotte MI, has random size pieces for hobbyists, last time I looked.

[Jerry V Lape]

Boiling in water doesn't reach the 300 -320 degrees needed to make the horn pliable since water boils at 212 degrees unless it is pressurized which is a whole other hazard.  The oil is easy with a thermometer, haven't tried the toaster oven - probably shouldn't use one you intend to eat out of and you sure want to do it outside!  Look in the knife maker supplier catalog for buffalo horn (it is usually water buffalo) which is solid black.  You can make the trigger guard from it as well. 

[draken]

There is a tutorial on making/installing a horn nose cap in the archives. 
http://americanlongrifles.org/old_board/index.php?topic=53.0

[Ron Scott]

My pistol making class at the NMLRA seminars needed horn muzzle caps. I think you are going to be better off filing the cap from a solid piece of horn.  If the block of horn is large enough, the aforementioned tutorial would be an excellent guide.

[blunderbuss]

I have a Jager and wheelock with elk antler that makes a good noise cap and about the best looking I think. My priming flask is elk antler too.