Screw thghtness

[mjm46@bellsouth.net]

How tight do you make your lock bolts and tang screw? Really tight will compress the stock and cause lock problems real loose will leave things moving around, and won't seat the lock against the barrel. On a scale of 10, 1 being just touching and 10 being cranked down tight, I think I tend to go about a 7 to 8. Snug but there is still about another turn in there if I push it.

[T*O*F]

How tight do you make your lock bolts and tang screw?

I don't use pre-threaded screws.  I make my own from screw blanks which are threaded to exact length.  As such, when installed they are both tight and clocked.  They cannot be over-tightened by some future nimrod thereby compressing the wood and causing problems.

[mjm46@bellsouth.net]

How tight do you make your lock bolts and tang screw?

I don't use pre-threaded screws.  I make my own from screw blanks which are threaded to exact length.  As such, when installed they are both tight and clocked.  They cannot be over-tightened by some future nimrod thereby compressing the wood and causing problems.

I like that idea but doesn't that open up the possibility of some nimrod over tightneing the screw/bolt and snapping it off? Just asking.

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

I have never had a client who tightened the screws down exactly like I do.  This is most evident on a standing breech tang like a Hawken rifle, where the heads of the screws are set in line with the bore and dressed off flush.

And a lock screw or pair of them should bring the lock's bolster tightly against the barrel's side flat, but that's all.  I like Dave's method, but confess that I don't use it.  However, I often make my own screws from 1/2" and 3/8" steel rod, and run the threads just a little past the minimum length.

[T*O*F]

I like that idea but doesn't that open up the possibility of some nimrod over tightneing the screw/bolt and snapping it off?

That's the whole point.  If he's such a gorilla that he overtightens them with every removal, he will eventually squash the wood and cause problems anyhow.  It takes a lot more to break a screw than it does to squash wood.

[Dr. Tim-Boone]

Hmm I can't make my own screw blanks, but is it possible to buy blanks and then thread them myself as you do??  I like that idea a lot. I even have a hard time determining when tight is tight sometimes.

[David Rase]

You need to have a "feel" for tightening screws.  With wood swelling and shrinking, as well as compressing with each tightening I would worry that eventually the lock could become lose if lock screws had a positive stop with the bolster and lock plate.  You cannot make everything "idiot proof".
Dave   

[Pvt. Lon Grifle]

Some years back I saw study  of the concept of "snug" regarding a wide variety of mechanical assemblies, and assemblers, mechanics, machinists, and common folks used to common tools.

As it turns out a very high percentage of individuals were able to agree on "snug". 

Lon

[James]

Tim, I get blanks through TOW for tang and sideplate.

[B.Habermehl]

I use what I call the three fingers method. Only use three fingers on the screw driver. Unless the person has ferosiously strong hands it works fine.  BJH

[JCKelly]

Hardware door hinge pins = screw blanks
For larger ones I kinda like carriage bolts to start with.

If the zinc troubles you, soak them in lye, will dissolve the zinc plate.

[Dphariss]

Hardware door hinge pins = screw blanks
For larger ones I kinda like carriage bolts to start with.

If the zinc troubles you, soak them in lye, will dissolve the zinc plate.

I use muriatic acid to take off the zinc. Instant results. But it can make fumes.

I make screws but I also use some of the dome head 8x32 and 10x32 that TOW sells. Some are threaded short but I leave a little extra threads. Wood does move. Loose tang screws can effect accuracy.
I used hardware store screws for initial assembly the fit the good screw just before final metal finish.

Dan

[mjm46@bellsouth.net]

Hardware door hinge pins = screw blanks
For larger ones I kinda like carriage bolts to start with.

If the zinc troubles you, soak them in lye, will dissolve the zinc plate.

I use muriatic acid to take off the zinc. Instant results. But it can make fumes.

I make screws but I also use some of the dome head 8x32 and 10x32 that TOW sells. Some are threaded short but I leave a little extra threads. Wood does move. Loose tang screws can effect accuracy.
I used hardware store screws for initial assembly the fit the good screw just before final metal finish.

Dan

These 2 methods interest me, how long does it actually take and what do you have to do the screws after the process? Where can you get small quantities of muriatic acid (less than a gallon)? I don't want that much of that stuff around.

[Don Getz]

Yes, I could make my own screws, but, why?    There are guys out there like Owen Collins that do a great job of it.  I
would rather spend my time rasping on a stock.  As for tightness of those lock bolts....snug.    Not too loose, nor not too
tight.........does that describe it?................Don

[Dphariss]

Zinc removal takes seconds with muriatic/hdrochloric or nitric .
Internet chemical suppliers can furnish small quantities.

Dan

[Dphariss]

Yes, I could make my own screws, but, why?    There are guys out there like Owen Collins that do a great job of it.  I
would rather spend my time rasping on a stock.  As for tightness of those lock bolts....snug.    Not too loose, nor not too
tight.........does that describe it?................Don

Sometimes I make stuff that the standard screws don't fit.

Dan

[kutter]

I've seen small (1 quart size) plastic bottles of muriatic acid sold in home improvement stores. In the section where masons supplys are sold,,cement, morter, trowels etc. Used for cleaning bricks and other surfaces.

Also if a friend or neighbor has a swimming pool,,they most likely have some on hand. Used for cleaning and adj. the water Ph so I'm told.
I ended up with a gallon that way when a neighbors above ground pool got tossed,,but maybe you can trade a beer for a small bottle of muriatic..

I usually just hit a zinc or cad plated screw with the propane torch and the plating burns right off in a few seconds. A quick wire wheel brushing and it's ready to go.
Acid or torch,,stay away from the fumes.

I just 'snug' them up to tighten them. Repeatedly removing and then reinstalling once perfectly timed screws will lead to them not being perfectly timed anymore.
One way to somewhat avoid the problem is to overtighten the initial fit. The repeated tightenings allow for still snug fitting with timed slots.
Most Best quality Brit shotguns have shouldered tang screws that leave the head timed perfectly. But part of the reason for the shouldered design is to make sure the spacing of the upper & lower tangs remains constant to avoid trigger and safety problems. When wood shrinks or compresses on these, shims are often found under the tangs to tighten the assembly up.

[Ky-Flinter]

Micah,

For removing plating from screws I use Lysol toilet bowl cleaner.  Do this outside.  Pour just enough to cover the screws in a plastic cup, wait a few minutes, rinse well with water. 

-Ron