Metal canteen

[Pete G.]

I bought one of the Revolution era metal canteens and got the stainless steel version so as to not have to worry with rust, leaking, etc. The problem is that it is as shiny as a '57 Cadillac bumper. I tried using both phosphoric acid and oven cleaner to try and knock down the shine. Neither had any affect. Is there a way of chemically dulling the shine of this thing?

Incidentally, to anyone contemplating buying one of these, they are available in two shapes, kidney shaped and half moon. I bought the later, since it would have more capacity, but quickly discovered that the corners will poke into your side rather uncomfortably at times.

[Clark Badgett]

Stainless steel is not rust proof, only rust resistant. Outside of blasting I personally don't know of a way of dulling the finish.

[Collector]

I think you have a couple of options: 1.) Paint it and antique it by cutting it back some, or 2.) cover it in wool, which will also help to keep the water in the canteen cooler.  Good luck.

[whitebear]

Where did you find these canteens?

[Clark Badgett]

Would Naval jelly dull the finish? It does dull regular steel.

[Dphariss]

Would Naval jelly dull the finish? It does dull regular steel.

Not likely.
If you wanted a HC canteen you should not have purchased stainless. Now you have to cover it in some manner.

Dan

[Clark Badgett]

Would Naval jelly dull the finish? It does dull regular steel.

Not likely.
If you wanted a HC canteen you should not have purchased stainless. Now you have to cover it in some manner.

Dan

Not me, I can't stand stainless. I still have my old Federal issue style tin canteen that has yet to leak. Is kind grubby looking inside though.

[Pete G.]

Where did you find these canteens?

Came from Crazy Crow. Wasn't really looking for HC specifically (after all rusty leaking canteens and contaminated water are historically correct), and the ones they carry are pretty inexpensive, which is sort of why I shied away from their tinned model. Quality of the stuff that comes from India makes one appreciate the high quality of Chinese junk. Might just throw it in the back of the truck and let it bang around for a while.

[TPH]

I have used tinned sheet iron canteens for years and have never had a problem. I have one tinned drum canteen that I used heavily for almost 15 years and it never leaked until it hit a good sized rock when I fell on it. I was sorry to loose it.

No matter what you do the stainless canteens and cups will still shine, that is the nature of stainless. The tinned canteens are just as durable as the stainless and they look 100% better, even if you don't care about so called "HC". You just need to drain them completely after use and store them with the cork out of the spout. The stainless canteens are no more durable and will leek if they get a good whack so they really have no advantage over the tinned ones. To get rid of the shine, you will have to cover it with light weight wool or linen. No offense, but even when covered you still see the super shiny spout and strap retaining loops so they still look pretty bad.....

[TPH]

Might just throw it in the back of the truck and let it bang around for a while.

I missed that you had said that. That is probably the quickest way to get any canteen to leak......

[Dphariss]

Where did you find these canteens?

Came from Crazy Crow. Wasn't really looking for HC specifically (after all rusty leaking canteens and contaminated water are historically correct), and the ones they carry are pretty inexpensive, which is sort of why I shied away from their tinned model. Quality of the stuff that comes from India makes one appreciate the high quality of Chinese junk. Might just throw it in the back of the truck and let it bang around for a while.

I don't see where the SS steel item is that much different in look than the tinned steel when looking at Townsends web site.

Dan

[TPH]

Dan, the stainless steel items usually reflect light in a manner similar to a mirror and it stays that way. The the tinned sheet iron has a duller, more uneven finish that quickly ages and turns gray and wears off whether the tin is applied by electroplating or applied by the "traditional" hot dip method. The later is relatively expensive since it is usually done by hand and is what many "hard core" reenactors want and are willing to pay extra for. If properly done (many are not getting the best results due to inexperience) the hot dipped gives results very much like the electroplated items but with a heavier, more durable coating of tin.

[Black Hand]

Try sanding it with 320 sandpaper.  This should reduce the mirror-bright finish....

[LRB]

  Or, if you have experience with soldering, you could tin coat the thing with a low temp solder and have the best of both worlds. 60/40 solder should work well.

[Clark Badgett]

Try sanding it with 320 sandpaper.  This should reduce the mirror-bright finish....

SS will shine very much with 320. I know this because I polish food and dairy grade SS parts on a nearly daily basis. In fact I usually get sub 20Ra shine with lower grits. Glass bead blasting will dull it up, but it will still look like SS. One could seal it up and submerge it in water, but it will take a while. Most SS that I have seen that has developed rust spots has been severely neglected for a year or so in locales that are subject to the swings of the elements.

[Collector]

Corrected: 23 June, 2011 @ 16:27 EST

Pete G. (Sorry Clark P.)  Put yourself out of your misery and sell it off.  Not only will the next one have a shape that is more comfortable to carry, but I have a sneak'n suspicion that it won't suffer from having a stainless finish...

Or, you could go primitive and use a gourd (lined in beeswax)...

[draken]

Stainless can frequently be discolored by heating it and applying some type of caustic.  You might want to give the oven cleaner another try.

[mjm46@bellsouth.net]

Clark P.  Put yourself out of your misery and sell it off.   Not only will the next one have a shape that is more comfortable to carry, but I have a sneak'n suspicion that it won't suffer from having a stainless finish...

I agree here.

[Artificer]

My first canteen was not stainless and it was the "American" pattern with the somewhat sharp corners.  I always emptied it after an event and set it outside to dry in the sun when I could.  Even with these precautions, it still rusted through in about 10 years.  I used brewer's pitch to seal it until it just rusted out too much.

When I joined the Major's Coy, 42nd RHR in the late 90's, I bought the British Kidney shaped canteen in stainless steel as in our unit, we covered them with red madder wool and you could not really see the high shine.  However, more recent studies have shown that metal canteens were not covered with wool or other material. 

There are truly excellent canteens that are made the correct way and cost about the same as the SS ones.  I'll see if I can dig out the links for them.
Gus