Here's some pics of incised carving being done on two different rifles: a Rupp and a Kuntz. I use a very small 60 degree parting tool I got from Brownell's. They are excellent steel and take an incredible edge. It's that polished fine edge that makes or breaks the carving, I think. the handles on these tools are about three inches long and are elliptical in section. This provides super control. Also, what you don't see in the pictures, and I hold the chisel in my left hand, is my right hand's thumb pressing against the thumb of my left, acting as a brake. This technique is also used in engraving with push engravers. So rather than using the arm's strength to propel the chisel, it is short action within the gripping hand that drives it, just inching it along under perfect control. Naturally, the first step to a successful design is the design itself, and this is penciled onto the scraped surface of the stock. Don't leave anything to chance - make the drawing right before you start. When I come to a curve, I roll the chiseltoward the outside, just like a graver, to create an accented line. The 60 degree tool cuts nice and deep right off the get-go, which gives a sharp profound cut.
I haven't tried stabbing-in incised carving yet - so much to look forward to!
The butt stock molding...these two lines are parallel and in this case 1/18" apart. that's not a typo - 1/18". But they start aboout 3/8" from the bottom of the butt stock and get closer as we get to the spur of the trigger guard. Having drawn in the first line - the one closest to the edge - I cut it with the parting chisel. It's difficult to cut a long line without wiggling a little, so I straighten it out as best as I can with a short section of triangular file ground safe on one side. I just take the humps out by flipping the file so the low parts of the wiggles get straightened out. It's easier to do than to describe. Then I used a 60 degree Dem Bart chequering cutter to cut the parallel line. I ran it over the butt plate to mark it, and then cut the nicks in the brass with a file. As I approached the spur of the trigger guard, I stopped and finished those lines as they terminate in that sexy little design under the wrist, with the parting tool.
The butt stock is almost perfectly flat along it's comb, until I get to the screw the secures the return of the butt plate. Here, I was over enthusiastic with a sharp file, and dressed off more of the brass than I wanted too. And I didn't notice it until I viewed my own pictures. Funny how that happens. The original Verner rifle is a little swamped along the comb which accentuates the flat comb. Some of this is caused I think by the butt plate return sitting a little proud of the wood, but it is definitely not rounded off at the heel like mine is. Sucks to be a mere mortal!!
I really appreciate all your kind words.
