« previous next »
Pages: [1]   Go Down

Author Topic: finishing sugar maple  (Read 5897 times)

Offline cmac

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 695
finishing sugar maple
« on: July 05, 2011, 03:14:32 AM »
I am finishing a rifle I believe to be a hard sugar maple. I did 4-5 coats of nitric acid solution that I have used before with a single coat success, putting heat to it in between each coat. At best I got a dull brown or tan color. I have talked to other builders that suggest an alcohol leather dye. Any comments or suggestions?I tried a medium brown leather dye I had on hand on a scrap and it came out too red. I'm told to use fiebings dark brown but will have to order some
Logged

Birddog6

  • Guest
Re: finishing sugar maple
« Reply #1 on: July 05, 2011, 03:52:15 AM »
If you don't want a dark red, don't order the Fiebings. This maple stock has the Fiebings Dark Brown Leather dye on it. I have done several of them with it & always a dark reddish brown. It is what the customer wanted, but may be more red than you want.



My favorite stain is Dangers Dark Brown. I have had good luck with ALL Dangler stains.

Keith Lisle
« Last Edit: July 05, 2011, 04:11:19 AM by Birddog6 »
Logged

Offline Dphariss

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 9886
  • Kill a Commie for your Mommy
Re: finishing sugar maple
« Reply #2 on: July 05, 2011, 04:08:58 AM »
Its wood. It stains differently from piece to piece.

Who's AF stain are you using? I have not gotten brown with my shop made stain but have gotten with store bought.

Dan
Logged
He who dares not offend cannot be honest. Thomas Paine

Hangfire

  • Guest
Re: finishing sugar maple
« Reply #3 on: July 05, 2011, 11:25:15 PM »
Birddog6,
Looking for a finish for the rifle that I'm building. Like the looks of the one in the photo. Could you elaborate a bit and tell me the steps it took to get it to look like that. Thanks
Logged

Offline cmac

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 695
Re: finishing sugar maple
« Reply #4 on: July 06, 2011, 01:41:13 AM »
I used "pure" nitric i got from a local jeweler mixed a 1/1 ratio maybe a bit more water and had good luck with it on a shooting box but not this stock. Pics of box at http://cmacsflints.blogspot.com
Logged

Offline smallpatch

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 4098
  • Dane Lund
Re: finishing sugar maple
« Reply #5 on: July 06, 2011, 04:06:20 AM »
Aqua Fortis is not JUST nitric acid.   It is nitric acid that has iron dissolved in it.  It becomes Ferric Nitrate.   To get color, you need the iron as well.

I know everyone wants to stay PC, but I've found the easiest way, is to just buy Ferric Nitrate crystals from Science supply, and dissolve it in water.

It is very low acidity, and works just GREAT. 

Easy to make, easy to use, and gives great results.  Doesn't even require hazardous shipping.
Logged
In His grip,

Dane

Offline Dr. Tim-Boone

  • Global Moderator
  • Hero Member
  • *
  • Posts: 6538
  • I Like this hat!!
Re: finishing sugar maple
« Reply #6 on: July 06, 2011, 04:08:11 PM »
Quote from: smallpatch on July 06, 2011, 04:06:20 AM
Aqua Fortis is not JUST nitric acid.   It is nitric acid that has iron dissolved in it.  It becomes Ferric Nitrate.   To get color, you need the iron as well.

I know everyone wants to stay PC, but I've found the easiest way, is to just buy Ferric Nitrate crystals from Science supply, and dissolve it in water.

It is very low acidity, and works just GREAT. 

Easy to make, easy to use, and gives great results.  Doesn't even require hazardous shipping.

Me too!!! Besides if I can get my wife to allow me to boil barrels on the kitchen range I am not going to run the risk of messing something up with acid!!  ;D ;D
Logged
De Oppresso Liber
Marietta, GA

Liberty is the only thing you cannot have unless you are willing to give it to others. – William Allen White

Learning is not compulsory...........neither is survival! - W. Edwards Deming

Offline Dphariss

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 9886
  • Kill a Commie for your Mommy
Re: finishing sugar maple
« Reply #7 on: July 06, 2011, 05:10:17 PM »

Nitric added to a similar volume of water (depending on the acid) weaker less water. DO NOT ADD WATER TO ACID. BECAREFUL. Getting nitric on your skin is VERY bad. Use gloves and a eye protection etc.
Then add the iron, I use small finishing nails, degreased steel wool or old wagon tire cuttings, all give the same color.
 Dissolve all the iron the acid will take. Not all at once though small amounts added work best.
Reaction will cause heat and it best done in glazed stoneware. This results in a stain that is depleted for only slightly acidic.
It make take a few days to get the stain to stop eating away the iron. I decant into jars after the initial reaction then just put in a nail and leave the jar lid loose for a week or more. If the nail does not dissolve fish it out.

Ferric Nitrate is the result. Ferric Nitrate crystals will do the same this without the acid from tests another guild member conducted.
The iron is the stain, he acid just converts iron to a form that will easily stain wood.
Some use Vinegar to make ferric acetate (?) which from postings here works well.
Do not use hydrochloric in any amount.

Stay away from the fumes!


Dan
Logged
He who dares not offend cannot be honest. Thomas Paine

Dave Faletti

  • Guest
Re: finishing sugar maple
« Reply #8 on: July 06, 2011, 07:03:56 PM »
Smallpatch.   Aqua Fortis is an old term for Nitric acid though on here people generally are refering to the finshed stain made from it.  Nitric directly on wood may be forming nitro cellulose and heating it would break it down.  Nitric on skin turns it brown :P without heat so maybe its just oxidizing it.
Logged

Offline smallpatch

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 4098
  • Dane Lund
Re: finishing sugar maple
« Reply #9 on: July 06, 2011, 07:11:08 PM »
Dave,

You're probably right.   All I know is that I'd much rather use the Ferric Nitrate.  No acid problems, no dissolving nails.

Just put it on, and POP goes the curl!!
Logged
In His grip,

Dane

Offline Dr. Tim-Boone

  • Global Moderator
  • Hero Member
  • *
  • Posts: 6538
  • I Like this hat!!
Re: finishing sugar maple
« Reply #10 on: July 06, 2011, 11:31:00 PM »
Quote from: smallpatch on July 06, 2011, 07:11:08 PM
Dave,

You're probably right.   All I know is that I'd much rather use the Ferric Nitrate.  No acid problems, no dissolving nails.

Just put it on, and POP goes the curl!!
Dane, have you settled on a ratio of water or denatured alcohol to Ferric Nitrate that typically gives the best definition of curl??
Logged
De Oppresso Liber
Marietta, GA

Liberty is the only thing you cannot have unless you are willing to give it to others. – William Allen White

Learning is not compulsory...........neither is survival! - W. Edwards Deming

Offline smallpatch

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 4098
  • Dane Lund
Re: finishing sugar maple
« Reply #11 on: July 06, 2011, 11:49:53 PM »
Dr Tim,

I just went by the ratio recommended on the pint bottle.  Filled it up with water, shake till they're dissolved.  Works great.
Logged
In His grip,

Dane

Offline Dphariss

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 9886
  • Kill a Commie for your Mommy
Re: finishing sugar maple
« Reply #12 on: July 07, 2011, 08:26:23 AM »
Quote from: cmac on July 05, 2011, 03:14:32 AM
I am finishing a rifle I believe to be a hard sugar maple. I did 4-5 coats of nitric acid solution that I have used before with a single coat success, putting heat to it in between each coat. At best I got a dull brown or tan color. I have talked to other builders that suggest an alcohol leather dye. Any comments or suggestions?I tried a medium brown leather dye I had on hand on a scrap and it came out too red. I'm told to use fiebings dark brown but will have to order some

Order some ferric nitrate crystals mix and test. Absolutely color fast and is the proper stain for a long rifle.
Leather dye is for people who don't know how any better.
And yes I have used it once. I didn't know any better.

Dan
Logged
He who dares not offend cannot be honest. Thomas Paine
Pages: [1]   Go Up
« previous next »