polishing horn

[ravenfeeder]

I just wanted to get some input on polishing up cow horn. I recently finished up a powder measure from a horn tip, and, being strictly a leather worker, I wanted to find out how some of ya'll polish out the rough spots and get your horns looking so smooth.
Thanks!

[eseabee1]

I just use a cabinet scraper ....I know some people use different grit of sandpaper from corse to fine and then steel wool .. some use broken glass ...utility knife blades..

[David Rase]

I use rasps and chisels to rough out the horn.  From there I go to a cabinet scraper for heavy stock removal.  Next I use a carpet knife blade that I have stoned the cutting edge flat for the final light scraping.  I then finish off with a scrubbing of steel wool.
Dave

[Ahtuwisae]

I start with a heavy hoof rasp to remove unwanted stock, then bastard files for the shaping...on to a cabinet scraper then pocket knife for scraping fine.  I generally stop here unles it's on to scrimshaw then I do the sandpaper  60, 80, 100, 150, 220, 320, 400, 600, 0000 steel wool.

[ravenfeeder]

I'll give these ideas a try! Thank you all!

[Black Hand]

Once rasped, filed and scraped smooth, a buffing wheel & compound will do the job.  

[James Rogers]

I kind of follow the same procedure as Dave Rase. This leaves a correct surface in my mind and meets my eyes opinion of originals. I will also burnish with a piece of steel.

If you really want a high polish the buffing wheels and sandpapers are the way to go but you will have a very modern looking piece .

[David Rase]

Once rasped, filed and scraped smooth, a buffing wheel & compound will do the job.  

I find the buffing a horn with a buffing wheel and compound makes the horn look too much like plastic for my liking.  To each their own.
Dave

[skillman]

I'm in the "just scraped" group. I don't think a horn looks it's best when highly polished. To each his own.

Steve

[Black Hand]

Once rasped, filed and scraped smooth, a buffing wheel & compound will do the job.  

I find the buffing a horn with a buffing wheel and compound makes the horn look too much like plastic for my liking.  To each their own.
Dave

Personally, I don't use the buffing wheel for horns (just posting the method for informational purposes).  I'm in the scraped/steel wool camp....

[Cory Joe Stewart]

Rasps, scrapers,then steel wool.  I do sometimes use sandpaper if I feel the job calls for it. 

Coryjoe

[ravenfeeder]

Thanks again!

[Tim Crosby]

  On a store bought polished horn: Coarse rasp, like a 49 Nicholson, half round Nicholson Bastard, scraper with NO burr.
  On a raw horn start with a coarser rasp like a 50, then as above. Stay away from sand paper, buffer, polish or burnishing. Of course a lot depends on what you want the horn to look like, aged, new, used, abuse, neglected, etc… 
 The only want to get what you want is to experiment. I don’t think anything you do to a horn cannot be corrected, unless of course you cut it in half and even then the parts are still useable.

 Tim C.

[ncbandedhorns]

lately i have been using steel wool pads from the woodworking shop that are synthetic.. they work better
on the lathe and seem to blend easier... wash and reuse. for the final polish i use either oooo wool or if im at an event i will use a hand full of horn n wood shavings to polish with...this method seens to bring out a nice
finish that is not too shiny.. it was a method furnature makers used for years to remove scratches before finish.... good luck....lots of good advise on here!                                                   mark ewing   

[davec2]

Course pumice powder and water, after rasping and scraping.  Make a thin paste.  The water softens the surface of the horn and the pumice cuts quickly.  No loading like other abrasives.  Can be done by hand or on a slow turning buff.  You can re-scrape lightly after the pumice if it looks to smooth for you.

[ravenfeeder]

Thank you all!