Author Topic: Flintlock cleaning thingy........ (Read 11665 times)

Macon Due · « **on:** July 09, 2011, 09:45:25 PM »

Howdy all
I bought one of those 'Flush tube' flintlock cleaning things from Track of the Wolf
They call it a "Flint Flush kit" anyhow have any of you used one? I ask because I seemed to have no luck with it at all. I used a wet patch that was tight fitting on my rod had the 'tube' down in a can of water but about the best i could get was water siphoned maybe half way up the tube? Is this more Junk or am I doing something wrong? I have cleaned using this method years ago on a Hatfield flintlock but by unscrewing the touch hole liner and screwing in a 'tube' adapter.
Thank you.......Macon

SCLoyalist · « **Reply #1 on:** July 09, 2011, 10:04:58 PM »

On some of my guns the flush tube (from Track, probably the same model) worked okay, on a couple, it wouldn't work at all. Key to working was being able to get a good seal of the o-ring over the touchhole. I could get water up the plastic tube and maybe up a foot in and out of the barrel; i.e. it was useful in cleaning the breech area, so I wouldn't call it junk.

That said, I've since gone away from using it and instead find it easier to plug the touchhole with a toothpick, soak the fouling with cool water, and just fill the barrel via the muzzle and pour dirty water out on the ground. Could be there are some breech types and shapes where the flush tube would shine. For myself, I found the flush tube prone to leaks around the o-ring (and hence down the stock and into the lock mortise) and prone to having the plastic tube slip out of the bottle or can holding the water and making a mess on my garage floor.

Collector · « **Reply #2 on:** July 09, 2011, 10:12:42 PM »

I've never used one, but based on your problem:
a.) make sure that it's properly aligned over the flash hole.
b.) water level in the bucket should be higher than the flash hole. (I'd use a full bucket, myself.)
c.) pour water down the barrel, to 'prime' the pump.
d.) start stroking with rod and tight patch.

Good luck...

wattlebuster · « **Reply #3 on:** July 10, 2011, 12:20:24 AM »

Seen it, tried it, worked so-so, an gave it to the garbage gods. Toothpick works fine. so once agian I spent money on what wasnt needed, guess I need to leave well enough alone. I hope you have better luck with yours

bob in the woods · « **Reply #4 on:** July 10, 2011, 01:04:28 AM »

The O rings don't last long before they crack. It sounded like a great idea when I bought it,but haven't used mine in a while. Too much trouble, and cleaning with a plugged vent as previously posted really isn't a big deal.

Candle Snuffer · « **Reply #5 on:** July 10, 2011, 01:52:52 AM »

Never used one either. I to just plug the vent hole and let my cleaning fluid do its work in the bore, dump the bore out, stuff a cleaning rag around the lock (or in the lock mortice if i have it out), and go to running patches. I also find that cotton balls on a patch worm works great for getting all that bottom breech area clean and dry, as well as pipe cleaners through the vent hole.

Sorry for going over my cleaning routine - I know that wasn't the question.

Macon Due · « **Reply #6 on:** July 10, 2011, 02:19:34 AM »

Gentlemen
Thank you all for your replys.I reckon I wasted my money again..[not a lot new in that]. It seemed like a good idea but like a lot of those.......
Candle snuffer
Thank you,I guess I'll just clean like you do.I appreciate the help.
Macon

Daryl · « **Reply #7 on:** July 10, 2011, 04:59:58 PM »

Macon - I bought one years ago, used it a bit, on about 4 different flinters-worked on all of them. I find it easier to just take the barrel off and flush it out using a bucket of water, like normal.

Dphariss · « **Reply #8 on:** July 10, 2011, 05:39:09 PM »

Quote from: Macon Due on July 09, 2011, 09:45:25 PM

Howdy all
I bought one of those 'Flush tube' flintlock cleaning things from Track of the Wolf
They call it a "Flint Flush kit" anyhow have any of you used one? I ask because I seemed to have no luck with it at all. I used a wet patch that was tight fitting on my rod had the 'tube' down in a can of water but about the best i could get was water siphoned maybe half way up the tube? Is this more Junk or am I doing something wrong? I have cleaned using this method years ago on a Hatfield flintlock but by unscrewing the touch hole liner and screwing in a 'tube' adapter.
Thank you.......Macon

Works fine on my swivel breech but I remove the pans to use it. On most conventional arms it may or may not work depending on how much barrel flat is exposed at the the breech opposite the lock.

Dan

Kermit · « **Reply #9 on:** July 10, 2011, 06:51:36 PM »

Works if you remove the lock--and why wouldn't you? You need to go to the hardware store with the thing in hand and get some spare o-rings. They eventually crack. Or you lose one. I got one years back when it sounded like what I needed when I first started the shift from pre-cussin' to flint. I use mine occasionally--never sure what prompts me to do it. Tight toothpick and cold water soak and dump works fine.

Macon Due · « **Reply #10 on:** July 11, 2011, 12:41:44 AM »

Hi guys
Well I got to shoot my [new to me] .36 flinter today. I just did the tight tooth pick and cold water soak for about 5 min. and dump.Then cleaned with patches, never did get any to come out 'really' clean though. Always a bit of grey residue on em. Oiled it with Ballistol and brought it home.
I did have a flash in the pan when I tried Goex Cartridge powder[actually 3 then noticed that although the pan flashed twice it did not flash a couple more tries so I changed flint and it fired but slowly. I went back to 2F powder and as long as I used 2 'squirts' from my brass primer it fired fine, once I tried one 'squirt' and no fire.Reprimed with 2 and boom.
I sure noticed that it is Not as quick as a percussion gun though. Hard to measure but seems like a tenth of a second delay? Anyway my Brother's cap gun sounded instant where my rock lock had the slight delay. I'm hoping that perhaps 3F powder will speed it up a bit?

Oh......did one dumb stunt...fired my wiping stick down range,might be able to make a short starter from it. Totally destroyed it! This is not my first muzzle loader but first time for that lil trick. Glad I had a spare on order.
Macon

Daryl · « **Reply #11 on:** July 11, 2011, 02:37:07 AM »

If I clean with the bore filling with cold water system, I fill and dump twice or even 3 times, 10 minute soak with each filling, then dry with patches (doubled flannelette) - the last one comes out clean and so does the one that blasts the WD40 out the vent after spraying it into the bore - 3 or 4 squirts with the plastic bottle and pump or 1 full second with a pressurized WD40 can. Wetting a patch with it and running it up and down the bore is not flushing out any residual moisture. Moisture will be trapped all the way around the end of the the breech plug (where a jagged patch does not touch) and inside the vent's hollowed cavity as well and in the threads of the vent where they come out into the bore. The blast of WD40 will remove that moisture and the forceful patch driven down on the rod hard, will blast that moisture out the vent - in my humble opinion, of course.

Standing Bear · « **Reply #12 on:** July 11, 2011, 05:11:25 AM »

My first flinter was built in 1983 or 1984. The builder made a block that mounts to the side of the barrel using one of the lock screws and another very small captive screw that engages a blind drilled and tapped hole behind the lock plate. An Oring is mounted in that aluminum block and has had the same Oring for lo these many years.

I got one of the track devices this year for the other flinters but can not get a seal as the touch hole liner screw slots extend from under the Oring. Will modify to use a different size Oring or a washer.

The percussion guns get a modified nipple and hose arrangement. I like the turbulance and velocity of the water for a good cleaning action and feel it will be worth the additional effort to get this to work as the 25 year old one and percussion arrangements work.
TC

Daryl · « **Reply #13 on:** July 11, 2011, 06:10:07 AM »

Water speed/pressure is your friend when cleaning the fouling of of nooks and crevices, link in the vent tunnel and around the breech plug where it meets the barrel - spots a cloth patch cannot or does not touch with enough force to wipe clean.

Dale Halterman · « **Reply #14 on:** July 11, 2011, 09:30:57 PM »

Quote

Oh......did one dumb stunt...fired my wiping stick down range,might be able to make a short starter from it. Totally destroyed it!

Been there, done that.

That's why i bought a stainless steel range rod with a big red knob on it. The knob blocks the sights so you hvae to be trying to shoot that one downrange.

Dale H

Dphariss · « **Reply #15 on:** July 11, 2011, 11:26:44 PM »

Quote from: Macon Due on July 11, 2011, 12:41:44 AM

Hi guys
Well I got to shoot my [new to me] .36 flinter today. I just did the tight tooth pick and cold water soak for about 5 min. and dump.Then cleaned with patches, never did get any to come out 'really' clean though. Always a bit of grey residue on em. Oiled it with Ballistol and brought it home.
I did have a flash in the pan when I tried Goex Cartridge powder[actually 3 then noticed that although the pan flashed twice it did not flash a couple more tries so I changed flint and it fired but slowly. I went back to 2F powder and as long as I used 2 'squirts' from my brass primer it fired fine, once I tried one 'squirt' and no fire.Reprimed with 2 and boom.
I sure noticed that it is Not as quick as a percussion gun though. Hard to measure but seems like a tenth of a second delay? Anyway my Brother's cap gun sounded instant where my rock lock had the slight delay. I'm hoping that perhaps 3F powder will speed it up a bit?

Oh......did one dumb stunt...fired my wiping stick down range,might be able to make a short starter from it. Totally destroyed it! This is not my first muzzle loader but first time for that lil trick. Glad I had a spare on order.
Macon

If the grey appears while wiping dry but is not apparent with wet patches its likely iron oxide.
This is especially true if the patches turn rust colored when dry. If they look like powder fouling when dry the bore may be hard to clean and might need a copper or plastic bore brush to help get it clean.

Dan

chuck-ia · « **Reply #16 on:** July 14, 2011, 01:32:05 AM »

I use mine all the time on all my rifles and smoothboures, never a problem. chuck

Macon Due · « **Reply #17 on:** July 14, 2011, 03:02:45 AM »

roundball
Do you not run into any problems by removing the barrel often? Anything like wearing out pin holes in stock or..? I assume it will not still be sighted in after the barrel has been removed?
Thank you......Macon

Daryl · « **Reply #18 on:** July 14, 2011, 04:13:14 AM »

Been removing barrels for 40 years now and have not had one change poi from being removed and place back on the stock.
My longest lived gun, the one I've been shooting the longest, the .69, had the sights set in 1986 and they are still 'set'. The barrel comes off every time for cleaning after it's been shot as well. It's made thousands of shots.

My longest lived longrifle with pins, has been shot, barerl removed and replaced for cleaning each time for almost 20 years and it's OK too.

Wolf Eyes · « **Reply #19 on:** July 14, 2011, 04:25:05 AM »

Quote from: Daryl on July 14, 2011, 04:13:14 AM

Been removing barrels for 40 years now and have not had one change poi from being removed and place back on the stock.
Mylongest lived gun, the one I've ben shoting the longest, the .69, had the sigths set in 1986 and they are still 'set'. The barrel comes off every time for cleaning after it's been shot.

My longest lived longrifle with pins, has been shot, removed and replaced for almost 20 years and it's OK too.

Daryl, doesn't taking the bbl with pins off so often expand (or something like that) the pin holes? I'm new to shooting a pinned bbl and have been hesitant to take the bbl off. Thanks for any input.

Daryl · « **Reply #20 on:** July 14, 2011, 05:52:17 AM »

Over a long period of time, the holes will get a bit loose. One need only rub some beeswax on the pins and they stay just fine. The holes don't get any looser.

Taylor instructs all the people who've bought his rifles, to remove the barrel for cleaning - to the point, he shows them how.

Wolf Eyes · « **Reply #21 on:** July 14, 2011, 08:42:18 AM »

Thanks. Appreciate your input.

Tim Harrison · « **Reply #22 on:** July 18, 2011, 06:54:28 AM »

I use one on a flintlock that I have. It is a 3/4" barrel with a lollipop tang. I don't like removing the barrel from the stock because it so easy to bend the tang.

I did have some trouble with it leaking after the o ring dried out and split. I couldn't find any o rings that were as thick as the original. So, I ended up just using a beveled faucet washer. Works great, no leaks and I can find them anywhere.

Tim

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Author Topic: Flintlock cleaning thingy........ (Read 11665 times)

Macon Due

Candle Snuffer

Macon Due

Daryl

Macon Due

Daryl

Daryl

chuck-ia

Macon Due

Daryl

Wolf Eyes

Daryl

Wolf Eyes