Filing of front sight.

[RB-sunshine]

  I am sighting in a new flintlock and would like to know the proper technique for filing the front sight.   Do you file toward the muzzle end or toward the breech or from the side of the front sight?

Thanks

[Dave Faletti]

I file in line with the barrel.  Most of it breach to muzzle.  I put tape around the muzzle in case I get to close.  It really comes down to how you can best remove the metal and keep the top of the sight true.  I can keep the file level side to side but find it easy to have the tail high or low.

[Stormrider51]

Make passes in line with the bore to avoid bending the blade sideways.  I make one stroke from muzzle to breech and then one from breech to muzzle.  This tends help me keep the top line of the sight level.  Go slow!  It's easy to remove too much and very difficult to put any back.

John

[Roger Fisher]

I use the draw filing motion with a v fine file. 

btw. on my 39 1/2 inch barrel a fine scratch the width of which is made by your sharp patch knife moves the ball a half inch at 25 yds.  Not scientific but works. 

[BrownBear]

However you file (I make my strokes along the barrel axis), be very careful to keep the file flat with no cant from side to side.  Nothing will make you nuttier that having a slanted top on the front sight when you're looking through the rear sight.

[Daryl]

Taylor and I file across the barrel - with the other one holding the rifle steady.  It is then easy to dress the 'feather' off the off side by running the file along the side's side. The front (muzzle end) of the sight must be kept lower than the rear, so there isn't a line of glare for you to look at.

For a trail walk sight, we make a short, 45 degree cut with the file accross the sharp corner with the file, which is then polished somewhat.  This tiny angle picks up light in the bush, making the sight visible where a sharp target-type edge becomes invisible. This angle is also made on bead sights, so they become easily found on a dark target.

[Habu]

Since I usually shoot alone, I've got an old Stanley portable carpenters vise I use.  Clamp the vise to the shooting bench (or pickup tailgate), pad the rifle (I usually wind up using my hat for this), then file parallel to the barrel.  I got too many sight tops crooked before I started using the vise. 

Jim

[Wolf Eyes]

For a trail walk sight, we make a short, 45 degree cut with the file accross the sharp corner with the file, which is then polished somewhat.  This tiny angle picks up light in the bush, making the sight visible where a sharp target-type edge becomes invisible. This angle is also made on bead sights, so they become easily found on a dark target.

Daryl, would you post a picture of this?  

Also, if you know of any tricks to help get rid of what I call a ghost sight.  I have a new front sight that is the rounded style and the only way I can get rid of a second sight outline sitting on top of the actual sight is to use a black Sharpie to black out the top of the front, the top and a little bit of the back side of the sight.  It sort of works but not great.  The sight picture is like a long rectangle with the bottom half filled in dark and the top half just outlined not filled in at all.  Hope that makes sense.  I'm hesitant to start filing away without really knowing what I'm doing.    Figured you or Stumpkiller, Roundball, Zonie or one of the other long time shooters might have an idea.  Thanks for any input.

[Jim Thomas]

Daryl explained that once before.   I tried it and liked the result.   

[Daryl]

My blade sights look identical to the bead shown in the photograph, when there is a minimum of light from behind, as is normal.
Note the angle on the rear of this blade - Verner Rifle, Taylor's latest build. When held looking down range, it has a short 'glowing' section that shows up well on dark forms - like a deer's rib cage. On birght targets, one merely used felt pen or sight blackener, thumb-wiping it off or re-applying as needed when on a trail walk.


Bead angled back.


Bead glowing with extra light. Needs more filing, a bit crooked, yet.  Brass rod soldered onto a narrow blade sight.  A blade shows the light, likewise.

[smylee grouch]

When out at the range and in need of some one to hold your gun to do some sight filing, I usualy have a couple of those adjustable bar clamps with the rubber pads with me and they have served me well to clamp gun to tailgate of the picup and file away.   Smylee

[Glenn]

My blade sights look identical to the bead shown in the photograph, when there is a minimum of light from behind, as is normal.
Note the angle on the rear of this blade - Verner Rifle, Taylor's latest build. When held looking down range, it has a short 'glowing' section that shows up well on dark forms - like a deer's rib cage. On birght targets, one merely used felt pen or sight blackener, thumb-wiping it off or re-applying as needed when on a trail walk.


Bead angled back.


Bead glowing with extra light. Needs more filing, a bit crooked, yet.  Brass rod soldered onto a narrow blade sight.  A blade shows the light, likewise.

My blade sights look identical to the bead shown in the photograph, when there is a minimum of light from behind, as is normal.
Note the angle on the rear of this blade - Verner Rifle, Taylor's latest build. When held looking down range, it has a short 'glowing' section that shows up well on dark forms - like a deer's rib cage. On birght targets, one merely used felt pen or sight blackener, thumb-wiping it off or re-applying as needed when on a trail walk.


Bead angled back.


Bead glowing with extra light. Needs more filing, a bit crooked, yet.  Brass rod soldered onto a narrow blade sight.  A blade shows the light, likewise.

.

Beautiful nosecap and the stock seems to have turned out great.  Looks real nice.