Author Topic: Bore brushes and mops - .75-caliber  (Read 3852 times)

Naphtali

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Bore brushes and mops - .75-caliber
« on: August 14, 2011, 03:00:14 AM »
SPG lubricant is doing an excellent job with my .72-caliber rifles; accuracy - accuracy without cleaning between shots - is astonishingly good. I am having trouble cleaning it from my bores. I think a non-stainless steel, non-bronze, non-brass bristled bore brush, and perhaps a reusable bore mop, will solve my problem. Who makes such tools for .75-caliber? Or from what vendor may I order them?

Offline Kevin Houlihan

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Re: Bore brushes and mops - .75-caliber
« Reply #1 on: August 14, 2011, 03:15:34 AM »
I would use a tight fitting patch on a jag wet with water or the solvent of your choice.  I've been using SPG for 15 years in my BP Cartridge rifles with great accuracy and ease of clean-up.  I clean the bore with a mixture of Ballistol and water and it works great.
Kevin

camerl2009

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Re: Bore brushes and mops - .75-caliber
« Reply #2 on: August 14, 2011, 05:53:53 AM »
you can probly get a 10ga bore mop or a 10ga nylon brush a 12ga mite work

you should be able to use a jag with a tight patch to clean your gun 

Offline Habu

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Re: Bore brushes and mops - .75-caliber
« Reply #3 on: August 14, 2011, 05:59:49 AM »
Given those qualifications, it could be a bother to find what you want.  When you find them, buy several because it might be a while before you run across them again.

Gunslick makes a "Benchrest Nylon Shotgun Brush (12/10 gauge)" that might work.  If all else fails, you can get these through Amazon.  ProShot and Tipton both make 10 gauge bore cleaning mops; Midway probably has these.

Jim

Daryl

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Re: Bore brushes and mops - .75-caliber
« Reply #4 on: August 14, 2011, 07:03:32 PM »
I use SPG and Lyman BP Gold in my Sharps - no cleanup problems with cold water and tight patches. I don't get a residue left behind - or if I do, it's invisible and cannot be felt and causes no problems of rust or whatever under long term storage.

I've always been against using a bore brush in a closed system due to damage in the bore form reversing bristles. Yes, I know some guys use them without damage by twisting them before reversting them. I won't use them - period

As for a bore mop - the only way that differes from a patch on a jag, is that bore mops cost more & can't be made to fit more tightly- or looser as the requirement might be.

Naphtali

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Re: Bore brushes and mops - .75-caliber
« Reply #5 on: August 16, 2011, 08:55:54 PM »
For my .72-caliber muzzleloading rifles whose bore diameters are .731 inch, I have identified Hoppe's non-metal bristled bore brushes as probably able to do what I want to do. But I am uncertain what brush material to use - Tynex® or Nylon - because I have no idea which material is more durable in use without being harmful to my bores. Among my concerns are the abrasiveness of each bristle material when brush direction reverses within barrel - that is, muzzleloaders cannot push brushes through bores to have bristles revert to neutral BEFORE a return stroke.

I also do not know the correct brush size to buy: 12 gauge; .75-caliber; 10 gauge; other so long as reversing bristles is not damagingly abrasive to lands/grooves?

Daryl

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Re: Bore brushes and mops - .75-caliber
« Reply #6 on: August 16, 2011, 09:31:05 PM »
In all fairness I should add that RBall uses bronze brushes in his MLs. He says to give it a twist at the bottom of the stroke and that will prevent the bristles from reversing and digging little pits in the bore.  I don't know. 

The pits caused by reversing bristles are why BR shoots say to NEVER revrse a brush in the bore. Those directions from them came about long before the softer, but tougher stainless barrels were being used. So if a 4140 barrel can be harmed, I suspect a 12L14 (leaded steel) or even the 1085 or whatefver GM's and some other harder barrels are made of can also be damaged.

I'd use nylon if I thiought I had to use a brush.

 I've found it just isn't necessary with the system I use - in the ctg. gun or the muzzleloader.  The jag is small enough to take a doubled flannelette patch.  It cleans HARD into the bottom corners of the grooves which can be witnessed on the final patch through a dry bore - the lands are ironed into the cotton - I use an aircraft-stainless rod - whatever spec. # that is. It needs to be strong to push the jag through the bore.