going to try again

[eseabee1]

Ok I am going to give gun building one last shot ..I am going to go with a precraved stock but I always have one problem I mess up when trying ti inlet for the breech of the gun to the point it can`t be fixed any suggestion other then stick with making horns ...

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

Chisels frighteningly sharp...go very slowly.

[Bill of the 45th]

  What Taylor said, plus get the barrel inlet first without the tang, then inlet the Tang without the barrel like 99% then fine tune from there with the tang on the barrel.  Slow and steady, with lots of inletting agent of your choice.  Also make sure the sides, and end are tapered slightly.

Bill

[rich pierce]

If you go with a precarve consider not having the lock inlet done. Many times it is hard to get the barrel properly set down and also have it work with the lock inlet.  Breech plug lengths, etc all affect where the lock should go and it can be hard to keep all that working with a pre-cut lock mortise.

[Rasch Chronicles]

If you go with a precarve consider not having the lock inlet done. Many times it is hard to get the barrel properly set down and also have it work with the lock inlet.  Breech plug lengths, etc all affect where the lock should go and it can be hard to keep all that working with a pre-cut lock mortise.

Now that is good to know!

Best Regards,
Albert A Rasch
The Rasch Outdoor Chronicles™
I Would Rather Hunt, Than be Hunted!
ΜOΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ!

[A.Merrill]

    What rich said is the best way to go. IF you do buy a precarve with the lock inlet, the first thing to do is finish inleting the lock. Then mark the spot on the side of the barrel where the touch hole will be, then as you inlet the barrel you can line up the touch hole with the pan.
    On a precarve with the lock inlet, if you inlet the barrel first and the touch hole doesn't line up with the pan, the lock will have to be moved forword or back or up or down leaving a nasty looking gap.
    Don't worry just think things out before you cut.    GOOD LUCK    AL
   

[NSBrown]

At the Bowling Green workshops this year I followed Mark Silver's advice and inlet the breech plug while it was on the barrel. It went in slick as a whistle. I suggest you give it a try.

[billd]

Some barrel makers taper the breech plug from top to bottom, some don't.  If your's isn't tapered, make it so.

Bill

[ehoff]

Don't lift the barrel out of the stock by lifting it up at the muzzle. It will give you false marks  every time no matter how deep you go. Place a pad on the bench and tap on the bottom of the stock to remove the barrel.

[dbraw]

To remove a barrel, I first drill a hole in the bottom of the barrel channel at the rear. The hole will be covered by front of the trigger guard. Then to remove the barrel, just insert a blunt nail from the bottom and tap with a hammer. Comes straight up.
DB

[greybeard]

To remove a barrel, I first drill a hole in the bottom of the barrel channel at the rear. The hole will be covered by front of the trigger guard. Then to remove the barrel, just insert a blunt nail from the bottom and tap with a hammer. Comes straight up.
DB
[/quot                                                                                                                                              Now thats a first rate idea. Why didn't I do that in my last build DUH!!!

[Meteorman]

I always have one problem I mess up when trying ti inlet for the breech of the gun to the point it can`t be fixed any suggestion ...

what is the exact nature of your "mess up(s)" ?
that information might help others provide more focused assistance or tips.
I'm betting there are very few things that truly can't be fixed by the collective wisdom of this membership.

[welafong1]

db
i don't think drilling a hole would help in the long run weeking that part of the stock leaves room to start a crack that just my two cents worth all i know is
{i don't know that much ether} that i would not drill there if you think different go ahead do what ever you want
thank you for your ear
Richard Westerfrield

[rich pierce]

I often solder a plate of brass atop the top flat of the barrel at the breech as a handle for picking the breech area straight up when doing inletting work.  I suppose epoxy would work too and heat would pop it off.

[Daryl]

I suspect JB Weld would work as the epoxy, Rich. Of course, the solder would.

[Tim Crosby]

I suspect JB Weld would work as the epoxy, Rich. Of course, the solder would.

 I will file that in the;" Why Did't I Think Of That" Folder.

 Thanks, Tim C. 

[camerl2009]

scary sharp chisels and stop cuts help me out

i use norton water stones and a chisel

i flaten the bottom and the top bevel with the 220 grit side of my stone the work up till i get to my 8000 grit stone

that gets it scary sharp i would not even touch it after that it will cut wood like paper

[Don Getz]

I have to disagree with Bill of the 45th, I would not inlet the barrel and breech plug separately, this can only lead to problems.   I would inlet the breech end of the barrel without the plug in it.   After it is fit real good along the very breech
end of the barrel, I would make a pencil line along the top flat on each side, then check the length of the stud on the plug
and draw a line across the stock...........you should then have an elongated box drawn on the top of the stock.  I would
then inlet a tapered hole similar to the stud on the breech plug, but, keep it undersized, and inlet this area all the way
down to the bottom flat of the barrel.   Then install the breech plug, put some inletting black on the stud and insert it into
the undersize inlet...............remove the black wood, and do it again, until the tang is flat on the stock.   When you reach
this point, drawn a line around the tang and inlet that....once again, undersize, and using inletting black, keep removing
wood until it's all  the way down.    Should take you about an hour to an hour and a half................Don

[kutter]

On the one rifle I built, I inletted the bbl and plug as one. Just thought it should be.

I have trouble handling the bbl, breech in it or not. So I had to come up with something.

I had thought of dovetailing it for the sights early and using those cuts as anchor spots for some sort of handles.
I abandon that idea as I thought the rear sight slot position/handle would be too far forward of the breech for good controll.

So, to hang onto the bbl w/o having it drop into position nor shifting while trying to get a nice print, I made a couple of simple handles.

The rear was silver soldered onto the tang itself. Done with the part out of the bbl. I used a common carpenters spike,,a very large one!. I filed the head flat to get a good bond to the tang then soldered and bent the long spike to a sort of an 'L' shaped handle.
Keep the handle as short a distance from the bbl as comfortably possible. At least for me, I shortened it up after finding a long dangling handle made for a swinging bbl sometimes. That might just be the nerves too!

The muzzle end was nothing special. Just a hardwood dowel tapped firmly into the muzzle. Not so much hanging out that I might break it off with leverage. Just enough to get ahold of it ahead of the wood.

With the two points, you can pick up the bbl easily and set it down nice and straight for a print.

When done, I hacksawed the 'handle' off the tang and filed the stub off down to the base metal. No real need to get the torch back out unless you like the heat and flame. Takes only a minute with a coarse file after clipping it off.

Epoxy would probably work too, but I'd perhaps make a larger contact surface for it.
Nice thing about the solder is there's no need to wait for things to set.

This method probably won't work comfortably if you don't have the reach. I'll probably find that to be true in one of my next projects. In that case I may just soft solder something convenient right to the bbl in 2 places.

[Eric Krewson]

I would use JB Weld. A top ML competitor friend of mine told me he JB Welded scope mounts to new rifles he was working up a load for, installed a scope, worked up the best 100yd load for the gun and popped off the scope mounts with heat. He said they come off clean.

[Bill of the 45th]

Don, I guess I stated it wrong, I meant to explain it the way you did.  By the way, I still can't believe how light that barn gun is, it looks like it should weigh twice as much.  Sweet gun.

Bill

[Rasch Chronicles]

I often solder a plate of brass atop the top flat of the barrel at the breech as a handle for picking the breech area straight up when doing inletting work.  I suppose epoxy would work too and heat would pop it off.

Dang, another great idea!

Albert