Goulcher Locks

[Ohioan]

I want to build a Barnhart rifle.  Many of the ones I've seen have locks that are stamped "Goulcher"

R.E. Davis has a Goulcher replica lock.  Has anyone used them?  How is the quality?  Is there anything I need to know?  Is there a Chambers lock that would work instead?

[Dphariss]

I am sure its better quality than many originals.

Dan

[b bogart]

I have at least one original and Dan is correct. The Davis lock is much better!
Bruce

[gibster]

I have a Davis flintlock on one of my rifles and it is of excellent quality.  I see no reason why his copy of a Goulcher lock wouldn't be the same.
Gibster

[Hank*in*WV]

I bult  Vincent rifle with a Davis Goulcher lock. It's top shelf.

[rsells]

I use the Davis Goulcher lock on all the cap lock orders I get.  I have not had any problems with the locks since I started using them shortly after they were put into production.   
                                                Roger Sells

[t.caster]

I bult  Vincent rifle with a Davis Goulcher lock. It's top shelf.

DITTO that!
I also have a Davis Jaeger lock on my Jaeger, that's 23 yrs. old and still settin the woods on fire!

[Ohioan]

Okay, I have another question about the RE DAVIS goulchers.

They sell them with and without the drum notch.  What are the benefits of using on without the notch?

[keweenaw]

The without a notch locks are necessary if you're going to use them with a patent breech or if you're using a non standard size drum or if the lock is a replacement and the standard notch would be too low to support the drum. 

Tom

[Dennis Glazener]

In my mind NONE. But it gives you the flexibility to use whatever type drum you wish and also to position it where ever you wish. When the notch already cut you have to use the size drum that fits the notch and position it in that location. To me they are a bear to cut to fit the drum without gaps! Of course I have built only one rifle without the notch (a patent breech Hawken squirrel rifle) and I never did get it to fit as it should!
Dennis

[rsells]

I use the Goulcher lock without the cutout for the drum when I use a 13/16 or 3/4 barrel.  I use a smaller drum on these sizes of barrels and the large drum on 7/8 and larger barrels.
                                                     Roger Sells

[varsity07840]

I want to build a Barnhart rifle.  Many of the ones I've seen have locks that are stamped "Goulcher"

R.E. Davis has a Goulcher replica lock.  Has anyone used them?  How is the quality?  Is there anything I need to know?  Is there a Chambers lock that would work instead?

I'm dealing with a problem with an original Golcher as I write this. Always worked OK except for a very heavy pull. Finally decided to lighten it up. I narrowed the width of a massive sear spring lower leg a bit and put a brass shim under the tumbler at full cock.  I couldn't get the sear to fully engage at full cock so I got rid of the shim. BUT I still can't get this thing to lock up solid at full cock with the mainspring in place, AND it only drops to half cock. Half cock engagement when cocked is fine. Take out the mainspring and I get that solid click when I bring it to full cock.  I dont' t think I took too much off the sear spring because it still took quite a bit of force to push the tab into the slot on the plate. Looking at the sear nose, it does look a bit worn and uneven. Also there's an obvious wear mark where the sear has rubbed against the inside of the plate, caused by a tight sear screw. Could it be that the only way this lock funtions is with that tight sear, which gives a heavy pull, but also gives the sear time to clear the half cock notch?
This rifle has a single trigger and there's no fly in the lock.


That was a long winded prelude to my note that I looked into a Davis lock as a replacement and I'll have to use one without the drum cut out becasue
the cut out on my lock plate doesn't match up with the repro. The Davis is also about 1/32" smaller in length. The other alternative(assuming I give up on the original) is to use their J. Henry lock that is a bit longer but an easy inlet and the drum notch matches.

DUANE

[keweenaw]

Despite opinions to the contrary, heavy pulls are almost never due to having too heavy sear springs, they're due to incorrect angles on the full cock notch and nose of the sear. The nose of the sear should be clean with sharp angles as should the full cock notch.  If the lock won't hold at full cock, the angles on the tumbler and nose of the sear are incorrect or worn. The sear will, of necessity, rub on the lock plate at least a little but this wear mark should be pretty even and not just at the tail of the sear.  With a two screw bridle you can overtighten the sear screw which will make the sear hard to move and result in a heavy pull or cause the sear to not engage when you pull the lock to full cock. 

Without having the lock in hand, it's difficult to diagnose the problem - the lock could also just be so worn that it's barely serviceable. 

Tom

[t.caster]

Snyder, I agree with all you said and want to add that the contact point of the sear spring to the sear arm is critical and can also cause problems. The spring should contact the arm as close to the shoulder as possible without binding on the shoulder throughout its rotation. It is a lever arm afterall and the farther out on the arm it gets- the heavier the pull gets! I have had a couple locks that came this way and it is best to simply replace the spring with one with a proper length. And make sure to slightly round and polish the end of the spring at it's contact zone for a SMOOTH BEARING surface. Tuning locks is all about REDUCING FRICTION. They ALL need it!