Author Topic: Getting the case colored plug back on  (Read 3431 times)

Offline Roger B

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Getting the case colored plug back on
« on: September 12, 2011, 02:24:15 AM »
So I got my parts back from Wyoming Armory & the case colors are really nice.  Put the barrel in the vise, padded the breech plug with some leather, & got it to withing 1/8" of the witness mark and cant get it to budge with out teraing something up.  Managed to crask the case surface in one place, but not too noticeable.   I'm using a really massive Crescent wrench that usually torks things down easily & I could get the pug in if I didn't have to worry about destroying the surface.  It came out really easily.  Any tricks to this that I don't know?  I'm nearly ready to assemble.
Roger B.
Never underestimate the sheer destructive power of a minimally skilled, but highly motivated man with tools.

Offline kutter

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Re: Getting the case colored plug back on
« Reply #1 on: September 12, 2011, 04:23:09 AM »
First try wire wheeling the threads on the plug. It may remove just enough of the carburized surface to make installation easy. Protect the surrounding surface with a few layers of tape. You'll probably get some sparks off of the steel doing this too.

If that doesn't do it,,
I'd put a tiny amt of fine lapping compound on the threads and work to plug back into position.

Sometimes things move a bit when casehardened,,,they warp.
The people that do the work have got it pretty well figured out how to avoid the worst of it and in most cases all of it.
Sometimes in the case of the threads, the very tips of the V of the thread can turn or move during the process changing the pitch (?) ever so slightly and tightening up the draw.

It takes only a couple .000" to make a difference.
You want the breech seated tight and square. Over tight is never good as it just puts strain on the threads both in the bbl and on the plug.

I worked in a restoration shop that did color case hardening and though the word was 'absolutely no warpage',,that was marketing.
Reality was refitting on a good number of occasions.
« Last Edit: September 12, 2011, 04:24:10 AM by kutter »

Offline Roger B

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Re: Getting the case colored plug back on
« Reply #2 on: September 12, 2011, 05:27:42 AM »
Thanks much.  What did you use to protect the case finish?  I'm having trouble slipping with leather.  Perhaps I would be better off with the plug in the vise & putting the barrel on the plug instead of the plug in the barrel.  I should have just sent the barrel with the plug & had the Wyoming boys do it for me..This is my first completely solo rifle & I wanted it to be nice. 
Roger B.
Never underestimate the sheer destructive power of a minimally skilled, but highly motivated man with tools.

Daryl

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Re: Getting the case colored plug back on
« Reply #3 on: September 12, 2011, 07:20:06 AM »
Roger, I've used heavy emery cloth for jaw protection if the leather is too thick. If emery isn't thick enough for the teeth in your vise, 1/8" to 3/16" 5 ply model aircraft plywood also works well.  It is very hard, yet resilient when needed as in the protection of parts from vice jaws. Model aircarft ply is available where RC models & etc. are sold.

keweenaw

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Re: Getting the case colored plug back on
« Reply #4 on: September 12, 2011, 04:19:14 PM »
You can use some brass around the plug, just put some tape on it first.  Leather will only result in rounded edges.

Tom

Offline Roger B

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Re: Getting the case colored plug back on
« Reply #5 on: September 13, 2011, 04:29:37 AM »
Got it!  Will have to touch the barrel up a bit, but it is back in.  Had a burr in the bottom of the breech for starters & had to run a tap down to fix things.  I'm learning a lot really fast.
Roger B.
Never underestimate the sheer destructive power of a minimally skilled, but highly motivated man with tools.

Offline Dphariss

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Re: Getting the case colored plug back on
« Reply #6 on: September 13, 2011, 04:43:34 PM »
So I got my parts back from Wyoming Armory & the case colors are really nice.  Put the barrel in the vise, padded the breech plug with some leather, & got it to withing 1/8" of the witness mark and cant get it to budge with out teraing something up.  Managed to crask the case surface in one place, but not too noticeable.   I'm using a really massive Crescent wrench that usually torks things down easily & I could get the pug in if I didn't have to worry about destroying the surface.  It came out really easily.  Any tricks to this that I don't know?  I'm nearly ready to assemble.
Roger B.

What lubricant were you using?
I use STP engine treatment.

Dan
He who dares not offend cannot be honest. Thomas Paine