TRS Baker Rifle

[Daryl]

Note that Taylor also re-cut the engraving on the lock parts were required, after filing, sanding and polishing.

[clayton707]

Thanks! It is becoming apparent that there is more to this than I thought there would be! I will have to research how to tap holes for threads. It will be another thing that will be a first, but I am willing and eager to learn. Where do you get your tools for tapping?

I wonder if I could get away with just polishing my lock, instead of sanding and re-engraving it.

Clayton

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

Clayton, here's the sequence for polishing any of your parts, brass and steel.  First, in the case of the lock, you file everything flat and true.  Then you use abrasive cloth to remove the file marks, using a file or piece of wood to back the abrasive.  Start with 80 grit, then 120, 180, 220, 280, 320, 400, 600.  You can go for a mirror polish with 800, 1000, 1200, but it's a military rifle, so I didn't bother.  For the barrel, 180 grit polishing lengthwise with a block of pine carved into a concave shape.  Bakers barrels were browned, and 180 grit is lots fine enough.

Flintfan is correct.  The lock gets two holes drilled with a tap drill, and the holes are threaded for the lock "nails".

[clayton707]

Thanks for your explanation! I think this will help a lot.

Another one for you Taylor. What size tap die did you use to cut the threads for the lock bolts? And, you drill a regular hole first, correct? If so, what size twist bit did you use for that?

And...how does the breech plug fit to the barrel? Is it welded or brazed? I am thinking that the bayonet lug and the sights must be brazed to the barrel.

I hope I don't get too tiring with all of my questions.

Clayton

[omark]

clayton, the people here are glad to answer your questions, but you would be doing yourself a good book or two that has been recommended here and reading them thoroughly. for example, the breech plug is threaded into the barrel and it gets pretty hard to fully explain it in this situation. also go the tutorials, there are many excellent entries there. good luck and happy building.   mark

[clayton707]

Thanks! I did buy the book "Recreating the American Longrifle."

I tend to like to research and envision how things are going to go together, but it will probably become more clear once I have my complete parts set and this book.

I had seen other guns with a threaded breech plug, but wasnt sure if the Baker had this set up too.

Thanks.
Clayton

[Daryl]

I thought all real rifles had threaded breech plugs - what other kind are there if not threaded?

[clayton707]

Wouldnt know! I am very new at this, and am having fun learning.

[FlintFan]

I think you might be looking at just the hooked breech tang without the actual plug.  Yes, the breech plug itself is threaded and is screwed into the breech of the barrel.  There is a hook at the back of the plug which fits into the square recess in the tang.  I've never built a TRS baker rifle so I don't know how they supply the actual plug, or if it is already fit to the barrel.  On the M. 1776 rifle I built from TRS the barrel came supplied with a standard one piece breech plug and tang which I had to shape into a hooked plug so I could fit it to the original design hooked tang.  The plug is probably coming with the barrel. 

[clayton707]

Yes, that is exactly what I was looking at! Interesting to know how it hooks together, and thanks.

[clayton707]

Since my shop lacks any tap and die tools, can anyone recommend a good set that would work well for building this Baker, and possibly other gun projects?

I am thinking I will go with high speed steel. Sounds like the carbon steel alternative is less expensive, but much more breakable.

Thanks!

Clayton

[Bill of the 45th]

I wouldn't bother with a set, as you probably will not use 95 % of them.  The two most common are 8-32, and 10 32.  Go to your local nut, and bolt supply house, and get like 3 each taps and 2 drill bits in that size.  As for taps for touch hole liners, the Chambers white lightning's come with bit, and tap.  The reason I recommend at least three, is the same as dry balling a muzzleloader.  It's not a matter of if, but when you will break one of the taps.  With that I recommend doing a search on this site about removing a broken tap.  The other thing you will need is cutting fluid for the tapping.  There's nothing really hard about tapping but a little practice helps a lot.

Bill

[LynnC]

Oh, You haven't lived until you have to extract a broken tap from an irreplaceable gun part     

[clayton707]

I imagine it might be a little like extracting a stuck 30-06 shell casing from a resizing die while reloading!

That has happened to me a couple times, and just a few dirty words left my mouth...

 

[Daryl]

Stuck brass is nothing in comparrison to a broken tap. The odd time, very odd time, the tap comes out easily. Brass removal is a 5 minute job, tops.

[clayton707]

I worked on polishing my Baker lock today as I wait for the other parts to arrive. I hope it is soon!

[DL Tatum]

Clayton:

I'm a new member of this forum myself, and I was really glad to find your posting.  I've been considering ordering a Baker parts set from TRS for about a year, but I just haven't pulled the trigger yet, so I'll be following your progress with bated breath.

Incidentally, I used to have a Baker rifle that TRS built for me, and yes, I had to wait two years for it, and it cost almost three times what the parts set costs, but it was truly a thing of beauty.  The quality of the workmanship was unparalleled, and it shot beautifully.  So, TRS's quality is unquestioned.  You just have to have a little patience.  Best of luck.

Dan T

[bryanbrown]

While I LOVE TRS parts, and they are good folks.  But when I talk to folks about ordering parts I always tell them to expect it to take a year.  The Ferguson parts are the only parts sets I ever get in 6 weeks.  Generally about 12 weeks I start emailing them weekly for status.  Typically they respond to every 3rd email.

Great folks, GREAT parts, slower than Christmas

Looking forward to your Baker project.  One thing, a lot of folks talk about "straight as a ramrod".  Most military firelocks with metal ramrods the ramrod is sprung or slightly curved (bend it slightly across your belly)  and that is what keeps them in place.  I have handled a number of original bakers (Mexico had them at the Alamo and San Jacinto) and none of them have a ramrod retaining spring, but most of the rammers are slightly sprung

[Glenn]

Here's a few pictures I took during this build.  The first is the parts set as received, except that each parts group was in its own blue zip-lock bag...there were a lot of them.  That kept things organized so it was clear which screws went with which assemblies, etc.

The lock was a set of parts.  It made up into a very nice and serviceable lock, but I had to re-arch the mainspring, to remove most of the negative bend, and to give it some power.  None of the springs or other parts, are heat treated, and all are 'as cast' with sprues and flashing.

The ramrod retaining spring is about 1 5/8" long and has a hole in the fixed end for the screw that secures the front extension of the trigger guard. This spring is fitted inside the trigger guard's front extension.  It was a little tricky to fit, and get the tension just right against the rammer.  The inboard end of the rammer has a ring that is a little larger than the rest of the rod, to catch this spring.  But it also works with the wooden rod I made for the rifle for hunting, which has no such ring.

I'll try to answer any other questions about this set, and build, if I can.

Very, very nice job indeed.  Perfection here is everpresent.

[clayton707]

Dan: I should have the rest of my Baker kit this week or next. I am looking forward to starting!

Bryan and Glenn: Thanks for the tip on the bowing of the ramrod; very interesting indeed! Nothing like original examples to look at and study. I will try to install the spring, but if it doesn't work out I will keep the bowing option in mind.

Cheers!
Clayton

[clayton707]

Finally got most of the rest of my parts today! There was some confusion and I was led to believe they were going to arrive many weeks ago..

Here are a couple pics, along with my finished powder horn. Just cleaned up, put together and installed the castings tonight.

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

Clayton, you're off to the races.  But don't worry about coming in last in that race.  Take your time - a period ship modeller has lots of patience. 
The Baker is of course, a military rifle, but I could not resist the urge to fill the walnut and give everything a workmanlike finish.  They make up into a very nice and serviceable rifle.

[FALout]

So Clayton, how long was your wait?

[clayton707]

Thanks Taylor!

Yes, I would like to do a good job, so taking my time on this will be best. I am glad I just bought a bench top grinder. It is very handy for getting rid of sprues and evening things out.

I placed the order for my Baker in August, so it has been awhile. Apparently the people that run TRS had a death in their family, which set them back a bit.

The parts came just in time for me to go on leave from work for the rest of December!

Cheers!
Clayton

[clayton707]

And my finished bayonet. It was a lot of work filing that blade smooth!