TRS Baker Rifle

[clayton707]

Hello,

I decided that based on my research online to jump and buy a Baker Rifle parts list from the Rifle Shoppe. This will be my first experience with putting together a flintlock firearm, and so may need some advice periodically. I think that if I can build the "most accurate" model of the 17th century Swedish warship in the world, I can probably put together a Baker.

I have formulated a question already. Where can you get an authentic sling for a Baker, and if you cant get authentic ones, where can you get something close that is the right width?

Already started the powder horn for it. I shaped the plug like the breech end of one of the types of cannon that Vasa carried. (I know different period and country, but I liked the idea) I added a section for the assmebly of my Baker to my webstite. (You can see my other work if you click on "home" at the top of the page.

https://sites.google.com/site/clayton707/home/baker-rifle-project


Thanks in advance for all the help I will get here! 

Clayton Johnson
Minnesota

[Bill of the 45th]

Clayton, welcome to the ALR.  You've chosen quite a challenge for your first rifle, but you have come to the right place.  I would recommend you do a search on both the Baker rifle, and also the Rifle shoppe, for some background info, and tips on both the rifle, and dealing with the shop.  I don't do this to discourage you but to give you a heads up the their supply line is sometimes quite slow, as a lot of component sets are cast when ordered, and may not be in stock.  The best advice is to be persistent with phone contact, and call to check availability of the Baker parts set.  From checking your site, it appears you have the skills.  Good luck.

Bill

[clayton707]

Thanks for your welcome Bill!

I did buy a book that has a section on the Baker; "British Military Flintlock Rifles, 1740-1840". I am thinking this should have some good information.

I notice the main complaint about TRS is the wait on orders. That being said though, every time I read someones comments about them here and other places, they pretty much always say their quality is superb. I feel I can deal with a wait if it means I get great parts to build a historically accurate rifle with.

I have been waiting almost 6 weeks now, and they said it should be shipping this week. I am very excited to start!

Cheers!
Clayton

[alsask]

My interest in the Baker Rifle is what got me started in flintlocks, although I don't have a Baker Rifle yet.

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

I built TRS's Baker rifle and found it to be an excellent rifle.  It's easy to shoot, and light to carry.  The build went without a hitch.  I had some fitting to do with the spring that secures the iron rammer, though.  "British Military Flintlock Rifles" was a great help to get it right.  A friend of mine in New Zealand built one too, and his looks great.

[clayton707]

Taylor,

That is an absolutely beautiful rifle! I hope mine turns out that nice. I really like all of the brass on the Baker and find it attractive because of that.

I just might have to ask you some questions about this project soon!

Oh, and how do you post pictures here?

Thanks!
Clayton

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

Clayton, there's a good tutorial in that forum on how to post pictures.  Thanks for the compliments.

[Daryl]

Taylor, got any more pictures - a brief set of pictures "as you went along with the build" would help, I'm sure?

[clayton707]

Here are a few pictures of the work that I have done on my powder horn.

[hammer]

D. Taylor Sapergia, that is one impressive build.

I have been trying for a while to get details of that ramrod retaining spring that you mention. 
All those I have contacted with original Bakers have had civilian or Volunteer versions which were different to the Ordnance version and had no such device.
Could you let me know the design and dimensions?   

Thanks,

Peter.     

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

Here's a few pictures I took during this build.  The first is the parts set as received, except that each parts group was in its own blue zip-lock bag...there were a lot of them.  That kept things organized so it was clear which screws went with which assemblies, etc.

The lock was a set of parts.  It made up into a very nice and serviceable lock, but I had to re-arch the mainspring, to remove most of the negative bend, and to give it some power.  None of the springs or other parts, are heat treated, and all are 'as cast' with sprues and flashing.

The ramrod retaining spring is about 1 5/8" long and has a hole in the fixed end for the screw that secures the front extension of the trigger guard. This spring is fitted inside the trigger guard's front extension.  It was a little tricky to fit, and get the tension just right against the rammer.  The inboard end of the rammer has a ring that is a little larger than the rest of the rod, to catch this spring.  But it also works with the wooden rod I made for the rifle for hunting, which has no such ring.

I'll try to answer any other questions about this set, and build, if I can.

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

This is a picture of the spring as it arrived.  It's a little bigger, in the picture, than full scale.

[Daryl]

COOL!

[hammer]

D. Taylor Sapergia, thanks for the picture.   Just what I needed.


Peter.

[clayton707]

Thanks for the pictures! I am sure they will help.

How did you engrave that date and your name on the barrel?

Thanks.
Clayton

[Daryl]

Taylor's out shooting the trail right now. To answer your question, he uses engravers with a chasing hammer for all of his engraving.

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

In this case, I used a die sinker's chisel and a light home-made chasing hammer.  This barrel is polished to 180 grit abrasive cloth, and then browned.  All evidence of the lengthwise "scratches" have disappeared with the browning, which is perfectly even and dark, and in the steel rather than on it.

...great day shooting my .40 cal Kuntz rifle!

[clayton707]

Thanks. I probably wont engrave anything into mine, but the tools you used to do your very nice looking engraving seem quite simple.

I suppose you drew what you wanted on the barrel with a pencil of some sort before engraving.

Cheers!
Clayton

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

Yes, it's probably a confidence thing...

I dissolve white tempera powdered paint in a little water, making it into a paste.  I place the paste into a very small brass vessel with a tight fitting lid, like a percussion cap tin only brass.  I left the lid off until all the water evaporated, and then I have a hard cake of water soluble paint.  I simply wet the tip of my finger, rub it on the cake, and then on the steel.  It leaves a very thin white film that dries quickly.  Then I draw my design with a soft pencil, and cut it with the chisel.  It's pretty much that simple.

[clayton707]

Yes, it's probably a confidence thing...

I think this is true with most things that a person can build!

Thanks for your explanation. Still not sure if I will engrave anything, but I know how now if I decide to.

[clayton707]

Taylor,

What was your method for making your metal parts shiny? I just got some of the small metal parts today, and I guess the rest is coming in a separate box.

Another question while I am writing. I notice there is no hole at the front end of the lock, but in your pictures of it installed on the stock, there is a small fastener there. Is this the only thing that holds the lock to the stock, and where did you get the fastening? It doesn't appear to be in my set of parts.

Thanks!
Clayton

[FlintFan]

Clayton best of luck to you on your project.  I highly suggest that you purchase a book on gun building, such as "Recreating the American Longrifle".   While not specific to the Baker rifle, it will take you through many of the basics of gunbuilding which are common to most muzzleloaders, and will answer many of the questions that will arise from your first build.  This forum is an invaluable resource and will greatly help you with your project, but there are many topics that will be difficult to explain clearly or properly demonstrate in this format.  A good book will explain in much greater detail the minutia of gun building and will only increase the likelihood of your first project being a success.  I look forward to seeing updates about the progress of your rifle.

[clayton707]

Thanks!

I did buy the book "British Military Flintlock Rifles 1740-1840" which has a section on the baker. I am thinking that the book you mention could be a great help also, since it is more geared toward actually putting a muzzle loading flintlock together, rather than just listing specifications and going over history.

Clayton

[clayton707]

OK. I did find the answer for part of my question on how Taylor got his metal parts so shiny from one of his other posts. Sounds like he sanded them down to 1,200 grit and then finished with 0000 steel wool.

I wonder what grit he started at though. He did mention 280.

Also, I do notice there is a hole in the front end of the Baker locks in my "British Military Flintlock Rifles". I am thinking that fastener must be in with the rest of the set.

A couple pictures from my set of parts. Hope to get the other box of goodies this week.





Cheers!
Clayton

[FlintFan]

There are two "lock bolts"  that hold the lock on.  They are the two large headed screws in the bag next to the brass side plate in your picture.  The side plate must be clearance drilled for them to pass through from the left side of the stock, and the lock plate is drilled and tapped for them.  One enters the lock in the front of the plate as you have already noticed.  The second one enters the lock plate behind the pan (it's location is hidden by the cock when it is in the down position).   Their proper location is critical so they do not interfere with the barrel and/or ramrod.