stocking an underhammer

[frenchman]

I want to restock my under hammer and give it some cast about 1/4 inch.
 Because of the stock screw , by how much off should i drill the hole for the screw.
I would like to also add a cheek piece to it

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

Do you realize that when you have finished with the cast off and the cheek piece, you'll be right back where you are now?  Sort of...

[stuart cee dub]

Hi Frenchman ,
I am stocking an underhammer myself .As my wood was not super thick I offset mine about 3/16ths (for a 3/16ths cast )and have a cheek piece .I left a scant pistol grip on mine too.To drill the hole in the butt stock I made up a kind of jig for a long drill bit some scrap wood and hot glue .
 
One important factor I am  having  to adjust for was the angle of the barrel as it came off the receiver/ lock /action .I assumed once the barrel was in and the 3 set screws were tightened up it would naturally come straight out .It did not .

It actually had a slight up angle so I had to compensate by lowering the buttplate so I would still have adaquate drop .I am guessing that as you are restocking you have know already what the angle is.
So far it is an easy kind of gun to stock otherwise .Not sure what to do about the forend yet .
Regards Stuart

[kutter]

Just start with a blank thick enough to allow for the cast off and the cheek piece to begin with.

Drill the stock screw hole as if it were going to be a straight, no-cast off stock.
The (extra) width of the blank should be enough to move the butt plate over for your cast,
and allow some material for the cheek piece too.

Just adding the cast off will allow a bit more mat'rl on the opposite side for the cheek piece anyway.

[KNeilson]

The quick answer  for 1/4 cast is move the hole 1/4 off center.  Ive recently done this too (stock an Underhammer).  The raw plank I used was Cherry, 8/8 wide.  I put a centerline around the middle, drew the stock contour on the side, and then marked the drawbolt elevation from the side, using the actual drawbolt in the action to ensure alignment. And then transferred it across the butt. I wanted a fairly wide buttplate, and wasnt worried about placing a patchbox so as not too interfere with the drawbolt, this making it quite easy I think. The head of the draw bolt needed a 1/2 recess, so I added a 1/4 for material outside the hole, and doing this ended up with 1/2 cast.. setting a bevel square off this angled centerline, I transferred a similar angle to the union of butt to action. Did this so the draw bolt wouldnt pull the butt back to square. Finished, the butt is about 1 7/8 and has about 3/16 thickness where the hole is. To drill the hole I welded an extension (1/4 mild steel round bar) onto a 9/32 drill bit, and used an breast drill with a buddy to help with alignment while drilling.. hope this helps  ..   Kerry

[FL-Flintlock]

Hi Frenchman ,

One important factor I am  having  to adjust for was the angle of the barrel as it came off the receiver/ lock /action .I assumed once the barrel was in and the 3 set screws were tightened up it would naturally come straight out .It did not .

It actually had a slight up angle so I had to compensate by lowering the buttplate so I would still have adaquate drop .I am guessing that as you are restocking you have know already what the angle is.
So far it is an easy kind of gun to stock otherwise .Not sure what to do about the forend yet .
Regards Stuart

That condition is most often caused by the breech threads not being square to the barrel profile.  Squaring the breech threads is the best fix but if you don't want to mess with that, you can sometimes fudge the alignment if there's a little play in the breechplug to action fit by upsetting the breechplug so as to force the barrel in the direction needed.
Mark

[FL-Flintlock]

frenchman,

If you're using thin cross section stock blank, drill the drawbolt hole offset to accommodate the cheekpiece - the centerline of the drawbolt will be determined by the center of the action end and center of the buttplate accounting for as much of the desired cast as possible without running out of thickness on the wood.  If you need more cast, adjust the angle at which the stock mates to the action.
Mark

[Daryl]

On such a thin wrist, you can also steam bend the wrist for a little more, as in a modern Trap shooter's stock. Be aware you will  probably have to re-drill the through-bolt hole if that's the method of attachment of the butt stock.  Tangs could also be welded to the action rear for tang screw attachment rather than the through-bolt method.

[Metalshaper]

Here's mine! not hard to do!  Started with a wide blank< like was mentioned> and the just fit the stock to me. cast off is about 1/4",  although now that I've lost approx 40lbs of weight since I finished it ..it suddenly "fits" a bit different!

Respect Always
metalshaper/Jonathan