Reloading in the field - an "oops" moment?

[Naphtali]

I have been concentrating on making certain my double rifle shoots both barrels within six-inch group at 100 yards. I lost track of possibly an important issue: How to reload in the field?

My loading process includes hammering my SPG-lubricated bullet with short starter (with muzzle protector), then using a stainless steel range rod (with muzzle protector) to complete bullets' seating.

I removed the rifle's loading rod for two reasons: Recoil jars it 'way loose at the first shot; and it is flexible and without muzzle protector.
***
Changing projectiles is not a solution. Bullets are a nearly perfect shooting solution, bringing me, the sights, and effective range into congruence.

I have about a month to solve the reload problem. Help me focus on a sensible solution.

[BrownBear]

If I'm reading this right, you're asking how to reload without carrying a range rod?

My solution for a slipping rod is pretty straight forward.  I wedge a small tab of leather between the rod and the barrel (or forestock) above the entry pipe.  If the thickness is right, it holds a misbehaving rod nicely, but hand pressure dislodges the rod when you need it and the leather tab drops to the ground.

Lots of other possibilities from changing the rod on your rifle to increasing spring tension on the retainer.

If there's no jag and your rod is uniform diameter, you can carry a bore guide in your bag and slip it onto the rod before seating the bullet.

[Naphtali]

If I'm reading this right, you're asking how to reload without carrying a range rod?

My solution for a slipping rod is pretty straight forward.  I wedge a small tab of leather between the rod and the barrel (or forestock) above the entry pipe.  If the thickness is right, it holds a misbehaving rod nicely, but hand pressure dislodges the rod when you need it and the leather tab drops to the ground.

Lots of other possibilities from changing the rod on your rifle to increasing spring tension on the retainer.

If there's no jag and your rod is uniform diameter, you can carry a bore guide in your bag and slip it onto the rod before seating the bullet.

AHA! Carry a muzzle protector! Or perhaps carry the short starter and remove its muzzle protector. I'm interested in being able to reload, not "speed" reload.

Many Thanks.

[bigsmoke]

Another solution would be to carry one of those three piece break down rods with you, like in a gun cleaning kit.  The aluminum ones are pretty lightweight and wouldn't add much to your kit.  Personally, I don't care so much for them because of the joints, but it would get the job done.  And, of course, do use a bore protector.

I like big double rifles.
Here is an intimidating view.  That's a .530 ball in the right side barrel for comparrison sake.


Just sold my 8 bore this year.  Kind of hated to see it go, but all it was doing was collecting dust.  Tell us about yours.

John

[Collector]

Got this idea from CLA member/KRA member and advanced collector Tom Patton.  Mr. Patton uses .30 M1 Carbine cleaning rod handle and sections and since I prefer larger bores, I use .50 BMG handles and rods.  They are made out of steel, breakdown (threaded together as suggested by 'bigsmoke,') are easy to pack and the end sections are threaded (think jags, ball pullers and patches.)  You can get them at military surplus stores, gun shows and on evil-bay.  They work great, especially as a ball puller, in the field... don't ask me how I know.

Good luck!!  

[Daryl]

3/8" Rod?  My .58 loads just fine with it's factory 3/8" rod & I don't use a muzzle protector - no need to.  I guess some of the guys might use one when cleaning, but not when shooting at the range, on the trail nor when hunting.  A tapered 3/8" to 7/16" or 3/8" to 1/2" would work fine for larger bores if the pipes allowed and not need a muzzleprotector.

If one is required, then carry it in your pocket.

BB's suggestion about wedging the rod works.

The thong can be tied around the barrel in front of the sights with or without a small diameter string, to run under the rod to keep it snug, then it's not when you pull the rod out for loading.

[Habu]

Can you remove the handle from the range rod, then carry it in place of the rifle's loading rod?  A stainless steel rod is going to change balance, not sure how much it would affect the harmonics of the rifle.  You can always throw a muzzle protector in the bag.

[Naphtali]

I'll be trying the shimmed loading rod w/muzzle protector in pocket tomorrow noon. My concern is the presence of the rod will raise Cain with my rifle's regulation. If that occurs, my fall-back is to carry this same rod as though it were a sword, stuck in my belt.

The nice thing about where I hunt include my not needing to walk miles and miles to get there. So moderate discomfort that might occur from a "sword" carry would be manageable.
***
I have received such useful information when I have queried the forum, I should probably query before I do anything pertaining to muzzleloading to keep myself out of trouble.

[Habu]

I have received such useful information when I have queried the forum, I should probably query before I do anything pertaining to muzzleloading to keep myself out of trouble.

Now I ask you, "where's the fun in that?" 

I've often carried a loading rod to my stand when pass-shooting doves.*  From experience I'd suggest planning on having something available to wipe it off before loading.  Those chamois-like paper towels work well. 

*"pass-shooting doves" sounds better than the truth: "pass-shooting at doves."