.36 Cal. information needed.

[Long Ears]

After reading the "How big is too big" thread I have a hankering to build a .36 Cal squirrel rifle. My questions is what size round ball mold do you suggest? And no I do not nor will I carry a hammer to start the ball. I will start building up the needed equipment while I decide what to build. Thanks for any and all advice. Bob

[trentOH]

No sooner done than said!  I just read a helpful article in my copy of Muzzle Blasts, which arrived just yesterday. The author commissioned a new long rifle, and it went through all of the decisions he made before it was built. Then he described how he developed a load, then changed it when he ditched the short starter and coned the muzzle. It certainly won't hurt to give it a read.

[mjm46@bellsouth.net]

I wouldn't rush to buy a mould till after you get the rifle built. You may want to try a couple of different size balls and patch combos. When you have decided which works best for you then get your mould.

[54Bucks]

 I agree about waiting until the barrel is selected and the gun built before choosing a mold. My experience with Rice, Green Mt., and colerain barrels is that most will use a .010 under ball the way they come. If the crown is relieved, a .005 under ball and .018 patch usually loads nicely.

[Daryl]

You can use Hornady 000 (triple 0) buckshot - trackofthewolf says their's is pure lead. The box of Hornady buckshot I have is about 4% antimony - too hard if too close to bore size. Instead of being .360" as 000 is supposed to be, Hornady's is .350" - perfect for a .36 if you don't want to cast.

I bought the buskshot locally, so it wasn't from Track.

If you want to cast and have better accuracy than a .010" ball will give, then a .355" to .360" mould is in order. Lyman and RCBS both make or made .350" moulds.

 A bore size ball is quite easily loaded in the small calibres as the lead moves easily due to their small size. I used to shoot .375" balls in my .36, a Sharon Barrel, along with a .018" patch. The crown was nicely radiused and sized the ball into the bore as it was pushed in level, making slightly elongated slugs.  It was exceptionally accurate for a small bore.

[northmn]

Like others suggested I would buy a couple of sizes after the rifle is built and check them out.  I quit casting for my 40 as the ball are inexpensive enough such that the time is not worth the effort for me to cast.  this is buying Hornady swaged ball.  It takes a bit to get a payback on molds for a small bore.

DP

[bgf]

Daryl,
I didn't know you have or had a .36, also.  I've almost settled on a .40 dedicated to paper targets, but the buckshot in a .36 is worth considering.  Would you mind briefly comparing your experience with the two calibers, especially at 50 yards, but also out to 100 (very rarely: I promise to bring something bigger if I ever make it to one of your woodswalks )?

[hanshi]

I had an old T/C .350" mold and that's what I've been using so haven't yet bought a mold specific for my rifle.  I can't shake the feeling that a bit larger ball might work better.  I also use a .020" patch.

[Daryl]

My .40 is a Goodioen barrel, which is a lapped, narrow land match-grade barrel. It will quite consistantly shoot 1/2", 5 shot groups at 50yards off a rest using a .019" drill patch, with a .400"X.400" pure lead ball and LHV lube.  I haven't benched it at 100yards. I am hoping it shoots as well with Shenendoah lube.  It also shoots under an an inch with WWWF + a tich of neetsfoot oil with either the .400"X.400"(.400"mould) or .397"X.398" ball(.395" mould)- both pure lead.

My .36 barrel was one of Hall Sharon's attempts to deep rifle a barrel using a button. I was in his shop in Kalispel when he pulled a button through that blank.  The entire shop shook - but, the barel was cheap and I was in 'testing mode' in those days.  Hmmmm - these days, too, but less so.  The barrel had a case of shakes - tight/loose, tight/loose, tight/loose/tight/loose - chatters that felt a couple thou, high or low, the full length, typical of trying to move more metal than nature intended, with a button. When loading, it felt -ddddddddddddddddddddddddddddt, from the muzzle, down onto the powder - if you can put sounds to what is felt on the rod. I guess I'm saying this barrel wasn't quite match grade. It shot into 1 1/2" at 50 yards with the 'tight' ball, and about 2" with the loose, .350" ball from my wife's Ohause DC mould. I didn't shoot it at 100yards.

[Don Steele]

Daryl,
That is an excellent description of a poorly made barrel. Reading it made my teeth clench kinda like what happens when someone scrapes their fingernails on a chalkboard.

[bgf]

Daryl,
Thanks, it sounds like it would be difficult to do a straight comparison b/t calibers with those two barrels being so different.  .40 is arguably the safer route, anyway, but I've never been too good at being smart like that and may end up with a .36 or both, anyway:).

[Pvt. Lon Grifle]

My recently obtained .36 has a Rayl barrel and shoots very nicely @ 50 with the bulk Hornady .350 buckshot/ .015 tick patch. They are close to round, sold by the 500, and close to very much lead soft.   Lon

[Daryl]

The Hornady buckshot I've seen is sold by the 5 pound box.  .360" pure lead balls are "100 to the pound" as they weigh 70gr. each -- as there are 7,000 gr. in a pound giving 100 to the pound. A pure lead .350" ball should provide 109 to the pound, which is close - a bonus at 563 to the 5 pound box. I just wish they wouldn't call them 000 buck.

The Hornady 00 buck I bought, also 5 pound box, contains quite round balls that are just over .320" in diameter which are quite hard compared to pure lead. I think perhaps I'll e-mail Hornady to see if they also sell pure or almost pure lead buckshot as well.

[hanshi]

This may be a bit tangential to the discussion but since ball is an issue just thought I'd throw this in.  My only .36 mold is an old T/C aluminum single cavity which leaves a rather large sprue (I tumble them which minimizes it, however).  I get fine accuracy from these little balls.  I measured several - tumbled and straight from the mold - recently and was surprised to find them about the most uniform I've yet gotten from a mold.  They measured exactly .350" from every angle!  I just prefer to cast my rather than buy them.

[Macon Due]

My .36 has a Colerain barrel and works great with a Lee .350" mold and a 20 thou. ticking patch with Hoppes #9+
Macon