First problem with first build.

[mbokie5]

There is a hole above the red paper. Hoped it would be much more visible, but my camera and my photographic abilities are seriously lacking.



The hole, or chip is on the first flat away from the bottom flat, in between the flash hole flat and the bottom flat. There's a fair amount of daylight.

Would I be right in thinking that this is a problem?

[bob in the woods]

I can't see it that well, but if the lock plate will cover it, I wouldn't worry about it.

[mbokie5]

Ok, there's the first issue.

Do I need a better camera or do I just need to use it better?

Let me try it again. I'll do one with the lock on as best as it will go for now.

[smylee grouch]

If that is a hole from the lock mortice into the barrel channel it should not be a real problem unless it alows the main spring to rub on the barrel and slow it down or otherwise impede its action.    Smylee

[mbokie5]

Maybe this is better.



The darker spot in the wood is the lock showing through the hole.

It doesn't appear to be able to touch the barrel at this point in time.

Haven't got too far with that.

[Long Ears]

If I am seeing it correctly it looks like the lock mortise has come through into the barrel channel a tiny bit. I don't believe this is a problem after the barrel in in position. Just make sure the lock bolster is TIGHT against the flat of the barrel so no priming powder gets behind the lock. I am sure other will offer their thought. Bob

[mbokie5]

Now, mind you the lock is not fully seated and will need some work to install. but I'm not near that point and I've just laid it in there for reference.

I may not understand what you mean, but I don't think it's poking through. but you can see some of the lock through the hole.

[WadePatton]

find the "macro" setting on your camera.  or the flower/mountain icons.  the flower is for for closeups.  keeps things in focus when yo.

givitawhirl

[mbokie5]

find the "macro" setting on your camera.  or the flower/mountain icons.  the flower is for for closeups.  keeps things in focus when yo.

givitawhirl

Camera is a real lousy unit. It's built in a foreign nation whose name we shall not mention. Not worth the money by any stretch.

Battery killer.

The menu has EV compensation 0.0, image quality 4mp best, white balance auto, iso speed auto, color full color

but no macro or flower mountain icons.

[Acer Saccharum]

I've seen lots of originals worse than that. This is not to say breaking thru is ideal, but it happens. Not the ned of the world at all.

Tom

[mbokie5]

I've seen lots of originals worse than that. This is not to say breaking thru is ideal, but it happens. Not the ned of the world at all.

Tom

I haven't even worked on that part of the inlet. All I've done is where the barrel sits at the back of the inlet without the breech plug. But there you have it.

so it's not fatal and the gun can still be saved?

[smokinbuck]

not certain that I am looking at what you are calling the problem but if it's the small opeming below the lock mortise, you could fill it with epoxy and set the barel in place to form the epoxy to the barrel channel. It probably won't be a problem but if it makes you feel better that's what I would consider.
Mark

[mbokie5]

Drawing a line from the heel of the frizzen towards the inlet shows a small dark grey linear patch, which is the hole.

[Collector]

Now, mind you the lock is not fully seated and will need some work to install. but I'm not near that point...

I'd say, inlet the lock and then revisit this issue, if indeed there still is one, at that point.  With all respect and no offense intended, I think you're over-analyzing a problem before you actually have one.

I don't see or anticipate, from what I've seen, either a problem or, in alternative, something that can't be fixed.  You're at the right place for solutions.

Good luck!!

[coutios]

m...5, What the others said. That small hole is somewhat common on a fully inlet stock.. IMO the next step would be inlet the lock and check the location of the touch hole. Make sure your happy with where its at in relation to the breech plug.. If you need to slide the barrel back you want to do that BEFORE you drill tenons or inlet the breech plug. THink about what you want to dt two steps down the road. Ask yourself is what I am about to do going to screw up the next step? That stock looks to be fully inlet .. Not alot of wood to remove so plan your moves have a good time...  Keep us updated..

Regards
Dave

[Dr. Tim-Boone]

Quite often on a slender gun the mortise for the mainspring on the lock will break through into the barrel channel.... the mainsprings tend to be large...... by the time you get the lock inlet so that the bolster is square against the barrel recheck to make sure the spring is not contacting wood or the barrel when firmly seated..... put some lipstick on it....

I have seen guns where there is no wood left in that area!!  

[mbokie5]

Now, mind you the lock is not fully seated and will need some work to install. but I'm not near that point...

I'd say, inlet the lock and then revisit this issue, if indeed there still is one, at that point.  With all respect and no offense intended, I think you're over-analyzing a problem before you actually have one.

I don't see or anticipate, from what I've seen, either a problem or, in alternative, something that can't be fixed.  You're at the right place for solutions.

Good luck!!

No offense taken, Bud. this is exactly the kind of info and knowledge I lack.

[mbokie5]

m...5, What the others said. That small hole is somewhat common on a fully inlet stock.. IMO the next step would be inlet the lock and check the location of the touch hole. Make sure your happy with where its at in relation to the breech plug.. If you need to slide the barrel back you want to do that BEFORE you drill tenons or inlet the breech plug. THink about what you want to dt two steps down the road. Ask yourself is what I am about to do going to screw up the next step? That stock looks to be fully inlet .. Not alot of wood to remove so plan your moves have a good time...  Keep us updated..

Regards
Dave

This is another excellent point.

I'll give up worrying over the hole for now and move on to the inletting.

The stock is close and there's not a lot of wood to play with. .060 to .070 max on the inside of the channel. There is some, with a small ridge for definition, along the outside or forestock of the channel.

It's really hitting me how poor this will be without pictures.

I have too many questions and can't provide the proper view for you guys. So I can't be helping myself by doing that.

I'll have to get a far better camera. I don't mind, as a far better one is available at about 1/4 the cost of the one I have. Mine is ancient in techno terms. It's over 7 years old.

I will change my focus, no pun intended.

I'll be back with some decent pics and some more rookie questions.

[mbokie5]

Quite often on a slender gun the mortise for the mainspring on the lock will break through into the barrel channel.... the mainsprings tend to be large...... by the time you get the lock inlet so that the bolster is square against the barrel recheck to make sure the spring is not contacting wood or the barrel when firmly seated..... put some lipstick on it....

I have seen guns where there is no wood left in that area!!   

Dr. Tim, I have inletting black.

I'll be back with better views for you guys.

[Eric Krewson]

I am about half way through my second build, like you I panicked when I broke through the barrel channel while inletting my lock on my first build.

After questioning everyone on all the M/L sites I found issues like this to be real common and of little concern.  You have two options if your lock won't go all the way in because of barrel contact, notch the barrel or narrow the mainspring.

I chose to narrow the mainspring on my lock. I draw filed it a bit and brought the edge I filed to a mirror finish with progressively finer sandpaper and emory cloth. In the process I reduced the force needed to cock the lock from around 30# to 16#.  By reducing the striking force my lock is very easy on flints but still goes off almost like a percussion lock.

On my current build I ran into the same break through as the first but only needed a very slight mainspring reduction to clear the barrel.

[mbokie5]

I am about half way through my second build, like you I panicked when I broke through the barrel channel while inletting my lock on my first build.

After questioning everyone on all the M/L sites I found issues like this to be real common and of little concern.  You have two options if your lock won't go all the way in because of barrel contact, notch the barrel or narrow the mainspring.

I chose to narrow the mainspring on my lock. I draw filed it a bit and brought the edge I filed to a mirror finish with progressively finer sandpaper and emory cloth. In the process I reduced the force needed to cock the lock from around 30# to 16#.  By reducing the striking force my lock is very easy on flints but still goes off almost like a percussion lock.

On my current build I ran into the same break through as the first but only needed a very slight mainspring reduction to clear the barrel.

Hey Eric!

It's not touching anything yet.

But you're right, I'm like a new father worrying over things that all of these guys have solved as easy as putting on shoes.

So, I'll agree that I'm being too much of a worry wart.

Gotta find a decent camera for a reasonable price. I'm surfing for one now.

Any suggestions? Anybody?

[Acer Saccharum]

GEnts, I just split the camera discussion from this topic. The new topic is 'Cameras for gun building', seen in a theater near you...no, in Gunbuilding, actually.

[Jim Kibler]

This is perfectly acceptable.  Heck many originals have all the wood removed below the bolster.  If the spring hits the barrel, chisel a groove in the barrel with a radiused chisel.  Nothing to worry about.

[Long John]

When you look at the mainspring you will see there is a little peg that goes trough the lock on the top arm of the spring.  The top arm of the spring from that peg to the hook that fits inder the pan does not bend!  It can be filed down at a 45 degree angle so you don't impinge upon the barrel.  Indeed, since it is a cast spring the only part of  it that bends is the part from the bend to the hook that contacts the tumbler.  I have had to file the top arm of the spring down on most of the rifles I have built.  It has never adversely affected lock performance or endurance.

Best Regards,

JMC

[Jim Kibler]

When you look at the mainspring you will see there is a little peg that goes trough the lock on the top arm of the spring.  The top arm of the spring from that peg to the hook that fits inder the pan does not bend!  
Best Regards,

JMC

Not so. When load is applied, to the tip of the spring it effectively pivots on the stud.  The portion from the stud to the area that rides on the bolster is certainly loaded.  Although material can be removed from the spring, it is so simple to cut a shallow groove in the barrel I prefer this method.  The spring is not modified and the barrel isn't compromised in any way.