Sealing the stock

[WadePatton]

What I use is Waterlox (the original sealer/finish in the red can) it is a tung oil based finish.

I knew someone somewhere!  We used that to refinish water skis --back in the day when water skis were wooden and ski-belts were legal (almost--i'm exaggerating a bit).  But it's one thing i'm familiar with on the wood-stuffs aisle at the hardware joint.

[WadePatton]

Real boiled linseed oil thinned with aged real Turpentine. Maybe some Grumbachers Oil Painting Medium III added 50-50 to the oil. Apply heavily let set an hour, reapply to dry spots let set for a hour or so then wipe dry. Give it maybe a day. If placed in the sun it will require wiping as the stock heats since oil will ooze from the pores as the wood heats, this is my choice. Once the first coat is sets over night or less if exposed to the sun when its warm, this is usually no longer a factor.

Dan

If you might indulge me (and the others yet wetbehindthelocks)

Real boiled- I take my raw oil and boil/reduce it over heat--check
Real Aged Turpentine?  I have some really old turpentine, will that suffice or is there something better?
Grumbachers OPM III (comprende amigo)

How much is "thinned with" and then when/why do you "maybe" cut 50/50 with the Grubachers?

Does the weather or wood or combination of the two affect the actual mix ratios?

thanks much,

wp

[Dphariss]

Boiling linseed also indicates adding dryers. Not adding driers will result in a slower drying time and essentially makes a dark stand oil. It will dry faster than raw but not as fast as oil with some resin and/or metallic driers. The dryer metals will add color to the oil as well and this improves the look of the wood being finished, especially unstained walnut. Good walnut finished with properly made oil needs no stain.
I have repeatedly posted the way I use both boiled oil and the Grumbachers Oil Painting Medium III.
Its a soft varnish with linseed, turp and some natural resins and helps with water resistance when added to boiled LS oil.
Thinning with Turp will be determined by the heaviness of the oil being thinned 25% maybe. I do it by eye.
Learning to use a stock finish requires some doing and experimentation. I could write many pages here (and have actually) and still not solve everyone's questions. So its necessary to do some testing...

Dan

[Dphariss]

Dan,

Some time ago, Bill Shipman described finishing samples and exposing them to outdoor elements for extended periods of time.  The jist of his findings was that the Permalyn outperformed all others.  A search might find mention of this.

Other finishes might look better and more appropriate in my view, but in terms of performance, I think its hard to beat this finish.

For me the difficulty with finishing lies in the fact that there is always this fight between performance and appearance.  

Jim

Was that the one where the pieces were soaked in a bucket of water?

Here is another test people can try easily. Finish a piece with the modern varnish of choice and when nicely dry drop a 50 caliber lead ball from 36" or so and inspect the dent for cracks.
This will determine "brittle" or "not brittle".
I am betting the plastic fails.
I also bet nobody tries this.

Dan

[WadePatton]

if there was a tutorial where some one went through his process (i'm sure there could be 12 with 12 different approaches), then i'd read 'em all and feel better about getting started developing mine own.

but i don't find such.  i find argue---, er discussions about what is best and what is p/c sprinkled with some hints as to what folks are actually using and how they are using it.  It's been somewhat frustrating trying to piece it all together--ESPecially if one reads other sites.

thanks all for bearing with me pulling this process from Dan.  Thanks Dan.  If anyone else would like to lay out a stepbystep process it might help even more folks grasp the nitty gritty of coloring one up and slickin' 'er down.

here's what i plan to do:  on scrap (maple from this blank) test AF for color development.  if i like i'll proceed with AF, if not i'll test with dyes. then seal/fill/finish with non-chemically altered boiled linseed oil (NCARBLO), partially evaporated turpentine for thinner (aged turp/AT) and Grumbachers3 (G3) maybe too also as well for good measure.

then i'll try it on my gun.

[Dphariss]

if there was a tutorial where some one went through his process (i'm sure there could be 12 with 12 different approaches), then i'd read 'em all and feel better about getting started developing mine own.

but i don't find such.  i find argue---, er discussions about what is best and what is p/c sprinkled with some hints as to what folks are actually using and how they are using it.  It's been somewhat frustrating trying to piece it all together--ESPecially if one reads other sites.

thanks all for bearing with me pulling this process from Dan.  Thanks Dan.  If anyone else would like to lay out a stepbystep process it might help even more folks grasp the nitty gritty of coloring one up and slickin' 'er down.

here's what i plan to do:  on scrap (maple from this blank) test AF for color development.  if i like i'll proceed with AF, if not i'll test with dyes. then seal/fill/finish with non-chemically altered boiled linseed oil (NCARBLO), partially evaporated turpentine for thinner (aged turp/AT) and Grumbachers3 (G3) maybe too also as well for good measure.

then i'll try it on my gun.

If you search the site for "boiled linseed oil" you will likely find a great deal of information. But experimentation goes on.

Dan

[WadePatton]

i'll start searching (with of course, outside engines) when i get back.

ciao

[WadePatton]

I found it i found it!  it took _some_ time.

For any who have looked and not found, here is a thread where Dan P. quotes a previous thread and also comments further upon his Oil Boilings/Turp aging and their applications.

http://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=14624.30

[smart dog]

Hello,
  When using Permalyn as a sealer,are you limited to the kind of top coat finish?

Hi Leatherbelly,
Generally, if finishes are thinned with the same distillate, such as mineral spirits or turps, they will be compatable using one on top of the other.  In addition, you can combine some finishes that use different thinners such as shellac and an oil-based varnish.  It is important to make sure the first or undercoats are dry and cured before applying the different topcoat.  Sometimes, simply sanding the undercoat before applying a different topcoat will work by enabling the topcoat to bind with the undercoat.

dave

[E.vonAschwege]

I've arrived late to the show, but I'll add my two pennies. 

To answer the original question Jerry asked, I use seedlac as a sealer the same as Tallbear.  I apply a heavy coat until it won't take anymore, then wipe away any excess build-up with a damp rag of alcohol.  Virtually any finish, including BLO, can be applied over this. 

As to Permalyn - I think as with any finish it requires the right technique to make it look good, but Bill Shipman and a few others I know sure know how to make it look great!  I've used it occasionally as ONE thin coat over a home-brew BLO varnish that was being stubborn to cure fully, and WHAM, it was entirely dry the next morning - I keep it on the shelf just for this purpose.

I won't go into elasticity or durability as I've not done any proper tests of it.  I'm not a fan of how clear and runny it is, but that doesn't mean it isn't a good finish. 
-Eric