Splicing glue

[RMHC]

 Wonder if I could get some input on the best glue or epoxy
to use to splice in a piece of walnut on a new gun stock.
DINGO that made the gun filled a void 3/4" x 1 1/4" section
with glue/sawdust ... not right.
 Like something that works good and maybe will take stain ?
I know wishful thinking.
  Input welcome and the inlet will be good n tight/close.
Thank you

[Scott Bumpus]

I have good results with titebond wood glue.  Epoxy will work well but needs to be colored when mixed.

[RMHC]

will the TITEBOND take stain
USED IT BEFORE but not on a rifle .
always left it clamped in place if at all possible.
 let me know
thanks

[Scott Bumpus]

I have made sure to get a good tight joint and clamped till dry, I don't know. if the glue took the stain or if the line just does not show.  I have not had a glue line show after staining and finishing. Hope this helps.

[RMHC]

 Actually it does a lot.
what I wanted to hear too.
Shame it has to be patched , one day it will be re-stocked.
thank you

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

There are many original European rifles at least, that are covered with plugs, to replace bark inclusions etc.  Don't sweat it - just fly at it.

[Dphariss]

Titebond or Elmers Carpenter glue.

Use clamps or surgical tubing to clamp then shape to the stock when dry.
Be careful of the grain flow and how the wood reflects light. If you get the reflection wrong it will really stand out.

Dan

[Hank*in*WV]

Get a good tight fit on the patch and then stain the stock and patch at the glue joint before gluing. It hides the joint pretty well.

[RMHC]

  Looks like MASSIVE bug damage to the wood.
Looking to restock it now.
 Wrist section is half gone inside.
not good

[Rich]

Elmers makes a stainable glue. The problem with it is that it accepts stain differently than the wood. If you want to get a really close color match, I would take a piece of scrap from the stock and finish it. Then use watercolor (probably burnt umber) to color some epoxy to match. The watercolor comes in little tubes.

[Gaeckle]

I've tried this with acraglass, but not with a white glue like titebond: I have a cheap watercolor paint set (get them at Hobby Lobby or whatever) and the paint is tube paint. I can blend differnt colors like burnt sienna and brown madder and use that to color the acraglass. It works pretty good for a repair when setting together two differnt woods.

The set is cheap. Some tube paints can cost 20 to 50 bucks depending on the brand and type. This set as I recall cost me around 10 bucks.

I have used this approach on walnut and it is difficult to tell where it's at.

I think acrylic will do the same, but I don't think that oil paints will, due to their long drying time. Acrylic dries pretty darn fast, can be thinned down easily and dries very hard. Acrylic paints are cheaper than certain brands of watercolor paints.

I also wonder if iol or acrylic can be mixed with a finishing oil like linseed oil to produce a very faint colored finish.

[Rich]

I have used the watercolor in tubes with epoxy and it worked well. I haven't used it to color glue. It might work.

[Stophel]

Well, using an aliphatic type glue like Elmer's or Titebond, your pieces should be fitted together as perfectly as possible, and there won't be much of a glue line showing.   

I like Titebond II or III.  I know it holds well.  I got a stock blank that was busted in the fore end.  I figured I could glue it back together, it was a clean break with the grain, so I did.  Screwed it together so that it was in the right position and clamped the far out of it.  After it had dried, I cut off a slab from the side (which would be cut off anyway after the barrel was inletted), and whacked it against the bench top repeatedly.  It broke.  But not on the glue line.  I turned it around and grabbed it by the other end and whacked it some more.  Finally, it broke again, but not on the glue line, so I was satisfied with the bond.   

I can't say I've ever had that much success with any kind of epoxy!

I need to learn how to use hide glue.

[Stophel]

Here's a couple of German guns with patches glued in.  The hide glue is still goin' strong.

[bob in the woods]

For me, the staining the glue approach only goes so far....often making the glue line stand out at a later date. I prefer Titebond or hide glue. For a bad across the grain break, a tight fit,and glue job can be disguised by using a gouge to remove longer slivers at the glue line, and then glueing in replacements.
You can hide a break completely doing this.

[RMHC]

here it is with 3 coats of stain rubbed in ... took it darker to help hide the splice some.
Used Loctite GEL slow set epoxy.
Had to fill a large portion of the stock with cotton fiber and slow set epoxy mixed together.
will post a pic of the stock prior to patching.
The glue "edited" put in was already falling out.

[RMHC]

prior too splicing in the hardwood.
Wood was soft n bug ate 9 inches back into the butt.
wrist section was soft too. Filled this side w/ cotton fiber and epoxy too ... into the wrist section.
Working on a new pc of wood. Waiting on some information from Pecatonia sp on some wood.
Hope the repair holds but I have my doubts.