sure - I put the pre-cuts in a small tin box, ie: sucrets tin or other candy tin, one of Track's flint & striker boxes or large snuff box or glasses case - dribble or pour in enough lube to allow complete saturation, then once all patches have soaked up all the lube they can hold, I turn it on it's side and press the patches out to drain off the excess back into the container. That's for trail walks with a water-based lube or LHV, Shenendoah or Hoppe's #9 Plus.
This consistancy or lack of it, works for me. Filling the patches, then pressing it out some seems to allow them to neutralize between lubing and shooting. I don't have a match rifle, per se, so am not hung up on that precision aspect. If I did have a dedicated chunk rifle, I might be, maybe not. If the gun shot 1/2" or better at 50 yards, I'd not worry about it.
My normal accuracy rifles (.40 and a .45) shoot 1/2" or better on centres with single rest on the forend, with patches lubed just as noted, with LHV or Hoppe's #9 Plus. I suspect they'll shoot identically with Shenendoah. The oils such as bear's oil, give greater shot to shot variation on the chronograph and poorer accuracy; ie: loss of guilt edge accuracy - plenty good enough for hunting, but not as good as spit of LHV , etc.
For hunting or testing with Neetsfoot oil or Mink oil, I lube only a handfull of patches or whatever I'm going to use) by saturating and squeezing out the excess with my fingers. Any left over, I throw away. Water based lubes don't deteriorate the patches over time, like the oils seem to do. When finished shooting with a water based lube, I leave the lid open in the basement, so the lube can evapourate. I simply replenish the stock of patches and lube before going shooting again.
When seating the patched ball flush with the muzzle, there is a small ring of lube - oil or water around the top of the ball inside the fold of the cloth that was squeezed up there from the patch as it was pressed into the bore. That shows that enough lube was used.
I don't use 'dry' patches as 'dry' patches don't soften the fouling which prevents the need for wiping.
