Shellac and Boiled Linseed Oil

[NSBrown]

Thirty five years ago my father-in-law taught me a finish he liked for refinishing antique furniture. It is a simple half and half mixture of shellac and boiled linseed oil. You load it onto the wood. Allow it to soak in for 15 to 30 minutes, then rub it back with fine steel wool.

I am using this finish for the first time on a gun I am completing, and I love it...so far. I plan to put down 5 or 6 applications. I've done 3 coats as of this morning.

Does anyone have experience with this finish? Do I need to lay a coat of Permalyn over it for protection? Or would a final coat of wax be sufficient protection?

[George F.]

I guess you already know that linseed oil is neither water or moisture proof. Shellac is moisture proof but not water proof. Combined ( linseed oil & shellac), cabinet makers a century or so ago used shellac and linseed oil and applied it in an circular motion like waxing a car, and called it "French Polishing"  I haven't done it myself, but from what I read about it,it's not a easily mastered technique. I guess because it dries quickly.  On a table top, where the area is large, this poses problems because the size offers you plenty of reference marks to see how evenly it turned out. On a long rifle, the areas are small and can be controlled pretty easily. It is probably a more period correct finish and offers better protection than just linseed oil. The best characteristic of linseed oil to me is that the dings and dents don't show up with the area slightly whitened. It is a flexible finish and allows the wood to breathe so to speak. ...That's all I know about it...Geo.

[Robby]

As George stated, that is a version of what is called a french polish or finish, It is not a weather resistant finish and would get sticky if you were hunting in the rain. It is a lot of work, when done properly, but beautiful. I wouldn't want to cover it up with any other type of modern finish like a permyalyn. You might get away with a good quality paste wax if you intend to take it out in the rain, wax is one of the best finishes for repelling rain. Sure would like to see it when your done.

[smshea]

 I have finished many rifles this way, including several of  my own with great results. You may here people say that it won't hold up, or it will give you problems in bad weather but I have had no problems. Keep it waxed and rain rolls off.  On carved guns I wax with black of brown shoe polish so as to keep white build up from forming where you dont want it. Be sure to keep alcohol off your hands or it will mar the finish but its super easy to touch up if you do. 

[bigsky]

NSBrown

Do you have any photos of a gun you have finished this way?

I have heard of shellac followed by boiled linseed oil, but never the 2 mixed.  I'm curious how well they mix and how quickly it dries.  Since shellac is an alcohol based liquid, perhaps it act somewhat like a drier for the oil?

[Tim Crosby]

 FWIW and I do not have any pics but I have used shellac flakes mixed with denature alcohol for a the finish. About a tablespoon to 8 oz. Let it sit for a couple of days, stir it a couple of times and strain it. To use it dip a piece of cotton in it then in linseed oil then in japan dryer, I mean just a dip of the oil and the dryer, and then rub it in in a small circle finishing in strokes with the grain. You have to work a very small area at a time and overlap. It is very time consuming and takes  3 or more applications but it does make a nice finish. After the second coat or so after the dip in linseed you can touch the ball in some very fine pumas to help smooth things out or correct flaws. It can get pretty shinny, almost like you were using polishing compound on a lacquer paint job.
  I was told that the linseed acted as a lubricant and an additional filler and the japan dryer helped dry and set both the shellac and oil. Followed by a coat of wax, depending on how shinny you want it. I do not like the shine. I think that's it, it has been awhile since I used it, way to much work.

Tim C. 

PS: I got it from a guy many years agp who made fiddles, the backs of which were curly maple. 

[bigsky]

Tim, iIt sounds like you are describing a classic French polish.  NSBrown said that he mixed the shellac and oil 50/50 and applied them together.  I had just never heard of that method before, but if it works ... man that could save some time.

[famouseagle]

Some years ago a furniture maker friend gave me a recipe for, what he called, "1,2,3 finish".  It includes one part gloss Spar Varnish, 2 parts Boiled Linseed Oil and 3 parts Gum Turpentine.  He also added a "dollop" of hard (paste) wax (which dissolves in the mixture).

This combination mixes easily and raw wood will absorb several initial coats.  After that I add one light coat per day for about a week and rub it down frequently.  I finish with paste wax. 

I haven't been caught in a rainstorm yet so I cannot attest to weatherability.  It is sure easy to apply and reapply.

[NSBrown]

I am aware of french polish, but my experience is that it is a lot of work...kind of a long run for a short slide. The 50/50 mixture is surprisingly easy to apply. You slop it on. Wait about 15 to 30 minutes. Rub it down with 0000 steel wool. The stock can be handled immediately after you rub it down. I usually wait 8 hours or so between coats. You can apply a paste wax, a liquid wax, or even spray furniture wax over the finish. That's my experience with the furniture I've used it on.

I am applying four coats on my rifle, then using Laurel Mountain dark wax over it.

I have a cherry box that I used this finish on that still has a wonderful soft glow. The box is used as a coffee table in the family room. I applied the finish 35 years ago. Still looks great and protects well.

I'll post pictures of the stock tonight. And then again after the gun is completed.

[G. Elsenbeck]

Hey guys, has anyone thought of using pure tung oil as a replacement for the boiled linseed oil?  My experience with tung oil so far has been excellent as far as ability to dry quicker than LO and has far more durability.  Mixing with the shellac would even speed up the drying process I would imagine plus it wouldn't darken like LO.

[smshea]

I should say that i do not use a 50/50 mix , likely more like 2 to 1 shellac or maybe even a little less oil than that.  I use a lint free cloth and apply in a back and forth motion. The oil keeps the rag from draging as the shellac dries. as you buff the rag back and forth a film builds and is all but dry to the touch after rubbing only a short time. I build up several layers before i cut it back. If you play with it a bit , it can go very quickly and will look like glass when finished. If anything its too glossy and will need toned down a little before waxing. I wait a day or so before waxing.  Again, I dont use it on every rifle but it gives a finish very simmilar to some of the Hess rifles and others from around the Kutztown area.

[Dphariss]

Hey guys, has anyone thought of using pure tung oil as a replacement for the boiled linseed oil?  My experience with tung oil so far has been excellent as far as ability to dry quicker than LO and has far more durability.  Mixing with the shellac would even speed up the drying process I would imagine plus it wouldn't darken like LO.

Tung oil is really too thin for use as fill on walnut. It makes a pretty good top coat.
Properly made boiled linseed oil will dry about as fast as many tung oil products other than the fast drying types that are really a Tung oil varnish.

Dan