buck n' ball gun questions

[DarryH]

I am looking around at buck n' ball guns. I am thinking a long gun,
smooth bore, only a front sight, and flintlock.
A Fusil might be in order here. I want a reproduction of original guns.

I need to have a gun with pretty readily available accessories.
I want to be able to order, wads and such with little difficulty in finding what I need.

What caliber/gauge guns do you suggest //

Where are good sources to find these guns?
My price range has to be $800 to $1200 for just the gun.

All help will be greatly appeciated.

Good Shootin!!
DarryH
Nebraska

[Roger Fisher]

I do believe that most folks would ask you what useage??

Shooting r ball in matches or used as a fowler or small game gun?

You mentioned buck and ball gun!  If you meant it I would suggest a 20 gauge since that is a common gauge and there are more of them around.

Shootin at game you don't notice the recoil; but in shootin matches if you are kinda on the slim side you could develop a nice flinch

Mine are/is a 28 gauge for r ball shootin.  heavier barrel wall (good in the breezes)
less recoil on my bony bod less powder and ball also!

Just my instant response!

[Ezra]

What would the use be?  Surely not target shooting!!!   If it's for hunting things with fur, 28 gauge and up would be appropriate.  Wads et al can be had at Track of the wolf.

http://www.trackofthewolf.com/(S(5f24nx45fgv5vcfdjfqeoz55))/index.aspx

As far as where to get the firearm at your prices...you may try Track for starters.  Maybe someone here.


Ez

[Daryl]

You may be 'thinking' only about long guns, but these two pistols make fantastic buck and ball guns. At 12 yards, the 'pattern' is roughly 10" in diameter with the 'buckshot' hitting radially around the larger central ball hole. The ornate pistol is .58, while the darker one is .54.  Only the .54 is rifled- makes no difference at spittin' distances.

[northmn]

Buck and Ball was a military load.  It makes the most sense in a long gun using a big bore such as a 12 ga.  A Brown Bess makes the most sense.  The buckshot should form an even circle over the ball.  To do so with a 20 would require the use of a smaller size buck like #3, a 12 or above can use 0 or oo.  Dpends on your use.

DP

[Longknife]

http://www.earlyrusticarms.com/pricesanddescriptions.htm

[James Rogers]

I would go with a fowling piece in English form.  The Chambers PA fowler is a good choice or Mike Brooks' Birmingham fowler. If you go with the Brooks fowler you can get it in 16 bore which I think is a good choice.

[rich pierce]

It's going to be challenging to hit your price point in a completed gun unless some of the imports are acceptable to you.  If you can go with a kit gun I'd recommend an early trade gun in 20 or 24 ga.  Some of those kits can be quite reasonable.  High end kits nowadays run $800 and up.  And most folks will want $1000 to put one together, more if there's carving and engraving etc.

[Daryl]

Buck and Ball loaded paper ctgs. were used/issued to US troops about 3 to 1 over single ball ctgs. for the .69 muskets. They even issued buck ctgs. for the .69's as well as tried them in the .58 calibre rifles, but of course, they were less effective from the rifles due to the rifling.

[tg]

I think that a civilian buck and ball gun would likley have had a heavier breech section to alow a heavier load, I rexall seeing this on one of the forums but cannot find the reference.

[Daryl]

I think that a civilian buck and ball gun would likley have had a heavier breech section to alow a heavier load, I rexall seeing this on one of the forums but cannot find the reference.

 I believe you mean a civilian Ball or Shotgun, meaning solid round ball or shot, not buck. These were typically English I believe. A good friend of mine has one originally in 6 bore- refurbished by Holland and Holland to 5 bore - looks brand new. It has a lump for a rear sight 'indicator' along with a small bead at the front of it's heavy barrel.  This gun is typically heavier all over than a normal shotgun, but the weight was to soak up recoil, not due to pressure related problems.  In that day, of about 1850, most people used ball or shot in their pelters, depending on what they were after.  A 2oz ball creats no more pressure and probably less than a 2 oz. shot charge.  2 oz. would be a normal 8 bore load, but shoots very well in Wil's 5 bore an pulverizes clays from 16 yards even though it has no chokes.  The normal ball for this ball or shot gun weighs the same as a normal shot charge - ie: 6 to the pound = 1,167gr. weight = roughly 2 5/8oz. to 2 3/4oz. and was re-proofed by H&H for that loading.

: With this in mind, it was typical to shoot a 1 1/8oz ball from a 12 bore (.729" bore), along with patch which would be about a .690" ball's equivalence - a tiger load with normal 4 to 6 dram charge as so used in many 'pelters' when after such game.

[DarryH]

I want a smoothbore flintlock. I want to be able to shoot a patched round ball or a shot load.
I hope to hunt deer and pheasants, maybe a few rabbits, plus
I'd like to shoot in some local matches.
I'm not shooting to feed my family, nor to win prizes.
I am out for fun.
I appreciate a fine gun, and the challenge that shooting one of these guns brings.

Thanks for all the helpful info.

Good Shootin!!
DarryH
Nebraska

[frontier gander]

i have a .54cal smoothbore flinter in the classified area.

[James Rogers]

It's going to be challenging to hit your price point in a completed gun unless some of the imports are acceptable to you.  If you can go with a kit gun I'd recommend an early trade gun in 20 or 24 ga.  Some of those kits can be quite reasonable.  High end kits nowadays run $800 and up.  And most folks will want $1000 to put one together, more if there's carving and engraving etc.

Yep, and I was considering he was to build it in my last post and the guns I suggested would fit price wise only as parts.

I think another option then is to get an "in the white" gun from Tip Curtis.
What Tip calls his "low comb" English fowler is actually a better profile for shooting pheasants and the like and higher comb than what he calls his "high comb fowler". I would get the "low comb" model in 20 or 16 ga. and specify exactly the hardware wanted using pictures and also specify lock and wood . You can get one of these guns for just less than 1200.00.   

[tg]

Actually I was thinking of buck shot atop a ball, this can be a lot of weight, a bit heavier breech section as compared to a fowler or trade gun would be a plus , not saying this was a requirement but I have seen the concept presented on a forum at one time or another, this would likely be a choice made by individual builders or buyers of the time