Author Topic: Finally Completed My Lyman GPR Rebuild  (Read 14639 times)

Mattole

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Finally Completed My Lyman GPR Rebuild
« on: November 18, 2011, 06:36:37 AM »
Last winter I purchased a used Lyman GPR from a member of another muzzleloading forum. The member had not been altogether honest in his description of the condition of the rifle before I bought it, as there was damage to the metal on the barrel and barrel rib when it arrived to me, but I used this as motivation to customize the rifle more to my liking. I came to this forum, asked some questions, and a few members generously offered to help mentor me through the process, primarily the excellent craftsman D. Taylor Sapergia.

After receiving some suggestions from Taylor I decided that I wanted to try my hand at doing several things to the rifle:

- file off the lettering on the barrel;
- straighten the tang and lengthen the wrist;
- narrow the width of the forearm and thin the area where the forearm meets the barrel channel;
- reshape the buttstock and beavertail and change the angle of the buttplate;
- remove the 'perch belly' from the underside of the buttstock;
- refinish the metal with a 'brown - rust blue' finish;
- replace the trigger assembly, the front sight and the rear sight.

This was my very first time doing this kind of work, and I wanted to challenge myself by having to accomplish many of the tasks that I would have to do if I decided to undertake a more ambitious rifle build someday. I figured if I messed up along the way that I would still have a rifle that would be functional enough to shoot and to hunt with - hopefully!

I made many, many mistakes along the way, primarily on the stock, because of choosing to work in poor lighting conditions sometimes (like, working by headlamp in the middle of the night because I was inspired!) and because I did not step back often enough to look at the work from all angles. I was also trying to work during a very difficult time due to the sudden death of my wife's dear mother, and although I found it comforting to work on the rifle as I grieved, my cognition and depth perception and focus were definitely not at their best.

So, here is a little journey of the process. I hope it can be helpful to other beginner gunbuilder folks out there who may be contemplating doing the same thing to their factory-issue Lyman GPR.

Here are a couple of 'before' pictures of the rifle:








First I filed off the plethora of stamped lettering, which then led to draw-filing the entire barrel. Boy that was a satisfying thing to do, and not quite as hair-raising as I was anticipating!






I then straightened the tang a bit to approximate a little more of a traditional angle and to facilitate the lengthening of the wrist. This stage also included filing down the thickness of the tang to remove the strange bevel that Lyman puts on it and then re-inletting the tang into the stock, which I enjoyed doing:






Here I am in the process of reshaping the snail to make it look a little more like a snail:




Here I am starting to straighten the line of the bottom of the forestock, which came with a bit of a belly to it:




At this point I begin to remove the perch belly on the buttstock:




Reshaping the cheekpiece and removing some of the bulk of the buttstock:




Changing the angle of the buttplate. The first photo shows the factory buttplate angle and a penciled-in modification, which I think would have been an improvement. However after establishing this angle I later changed it again in a moment of non-clarity related to further reduction of the perch belly and thus I went way too far. The lower photo shows the resulting angle of the end of the buttstock along with a partially fit buttplate. You can see here how I removed too much material and therefore reduced the buttstock height by quite a bit. I thought I was doomed at this point but decided to continue - especially since buying another Lyman stock would have set me back $250. I posted on this forum about this major boo-boo with photos of my mishap and received some excellent encouragement to persevere, and I thank you for that!






Here is the beginning of reshaping the lock panels - another area where I got a little careless and removed too much material without check-check-checking along the way. The final product is not too terribly bad but does not have quite the symmetry and elegance I was aiming for:






After this point I went through a period of discouragement. Rather than continue to make large, regrettable mistakes I took a break from the project for a few months and then slowly reapproached the work (another suggestion from forum members here). I fit the buttplate to the buttstock (very challenging), re-inlet the toeplate and trigger guard, and did the final shaping of the stock. I did not do any photo documentation of the process during this time, sorry about that.

I then sanded the stock to 320 grit sandpaper and refinished it with 6 thin coats of Chambers Traditional Oil Finish - I love that stuff! It revealed qualities to the wood that the factory finish did a great job of hiding.

I prepped the metal parts for browning by sanding to 180 grit paper. I knew I did not want a mirror-finish to the metal, but rather wanted something with more of a texture to it. I also wanted a color to the metal somewhere between a brown and a rust blue. I used Wahkon Bay Tru-Brown solution and let the parts rust in a heated and very humid bathroom. I applied the solution and let it rust four times without carding. Then I carded the parts with a piece of denim and put all the parts in a bath of boiling water and let them sit until they started to darken. I removed the parts, neutralized the browning solution with ammonia, scrubbed everything with Lava soap, lightly carded with a Scotchbrite pad, and oiled thoroughly with something called Corrosion-X. Something to note is that much of the darkness of the color you see in the photos did not appear until after the parts had been soaking in the Corrosion-X overnight. I carded very lightly again and repeated the saturation in the oil solution, then wiped everything down with a soft shop rag.

And finally, here are a few photos of the final product:

















I really love the color and texture of the metal and feel fortunate that it came out this way.

My effort was sincere though my results were far from perfect in many ways, but I learned a lot and feel more prepared for my next project, which will be a Jim Chambers Isaac Haines flintlock - when funds allow!

Many thanks again to those of you who provided encouragement and guidance to me - I really appreciate it.

I am now in the process of working up a load for the rifle and am enjoying it immensely.

I plan to take the GPR wild boar hunting in a few weeks.
« Last Edit: November 18, 2011, 10:48:43 PM by Mattole »

Offline Gene Carrell

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Re: Finally Completed My Lyman GPR Rebuild
« Reply #1 on: November 18, 2011, 01:49:18 PM »
A great tutorial and a great rifle. It  should be an inspiration  to many. I especially like your metal treatment  and may try it myself. Thanks,
Gene

Offline rich pierce

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Re: Finally Completed My Lyman GPR Rebuild
« Reply #2 on: November 18, 2011, 03:47:15 PM »
I especially like the cheekpiece; well done there.
Andover, Vermont

Nesbitt

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Re: Finally Completed My Lyman GPR Rebuild
« Reply #3 on: November 18, 2011, 04:43:48 PM »
Good job!  It's too bad Lyman won't follow your example.  Shoot sharp's the word, Mike

Offline alyce-james

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Re: Finally Completed My Lyman GPR Rebuild
« Reply #4 on: November 18, 2011, 05:35:33 PM »
Sir; Looks to be a very successful transformation and I'm sure a satisfying conclusion to a journeys end. Metal treatment and redesign looks great. I was empressed with the snail transformation. Thanks for sharing with the form. AJ
"Candy is Dandy but Liquor is Quicker". by Poet Ogden Nash 1931.

Offline Roger Fisher

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Re: Finally Completed My Lyman GPR Rebuild
« Reply #5 on: November 18, 2011, 05:44:06 PM »
We await to see if she shoots ;D

Offline Scout

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Re: Finally Completed My Lyman GPR Rebuild
« Reply #6 on: November 18, 2011, 07:42:06 PM »
Great job ! I have a GPR .54 cal right hand caplock that I have always wanted to redo the barrel and eliminate the stampings.
I'm inspired after seeing how nice yours came out.
She ain't Purdy but she shoots real good !

Mattole

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Re: Finally Completed My Lyman GPR Rebuild
« Reply #7 on: November 18, 2011, 10:18:54 PM »
Thank you gentlemen, recognition coming from you means a great deal to me and encourages me to fare forward into more challenging builds. 

Offline D. Taylor Sapergia

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Re: Finally Completed My Lyman GPR Rebuild
« Reply #8 on: November 19, 2011, 02:49:51 AM »
Very credible transformation!  The colour on both metal and wood is just great.  This little journey will all chapters to your book of gun building, and other should not feel intimidated to try.  Sincere congratulations on a job well done.  Now, go make meat.
D. Taylor Sapergia
www.sapergia.blogspot.com

Art is not an object.  It is the excitement inspired by the object.

alsask

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Re: Finally Completed My Lyman GPR Rebuild
« Reply #9 on: November 19, 2011, 07:40:10 AM »
I re-worked the wood on my Lyman Trade rifle and Deer Stalker although not quite as much.  I also cut the perch belly out like you did and relieved the wood more around the cheek rest on both.

The cheesy plastic finish that is on the Lymans is what made me do it.  I refinished the wood with Minwax antique oil finish and a final coat of BLO.

I really like the result of your work, especially the draw filing on the barrel.

Offline dogcreek

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Re: Finally Completed My Lyman GPR Rebuild
« Reply #10 on: November 21, 2011, 09:04:02 PM »
Congratulations on your remodel. You now have a semi-custom Hawken, a good-looking hunting rifle and a conversation piece as well. Good luck on your boar hunt.

Mattole

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Re: Finally Completed My Lyman GPR Rebuild
« Reply #11 on: November 21, 2011, 10:29:29 PM »
Thanks for your comments, Dogcreek. That was part of my goal, to have a 'custom-for-me' Plains rifle at a used Lyman GPR price! I will be sure to post elsewhere on the forum about my upcoming boar hunt.

As I postscript to my rebuild I want to mention that I did not do the boiling water bath of the metal parts with distilled water, as is usually suggested, but I used filtered spring water from our backwoods home water system. Also, I noticed a few days after my initial post that there were a few places where the rusting was continuing unabated so I took the rifle apart, scrubbed the metal parts thoroughly with Lava soap, scrubbed again with an ammonia-soaked loufa-backed sponge, rinsed and dried thoroughly and then saturated the metal with diesel motor oil overnight. Now the metal finish seems very stable.


Martin_G

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Re: Finally Completed My Lyman GPR Rebuild
« Reply #12 on: February 12, 2012, 06:03:03 AM »
Hi Mattole,


I just read your "GPR Rebuild" post and I must say that you did a fine job straightening out and fixin" the mistakes that Lyman made! Its a shame that Lyman didn't do this in the first place!

I especially like the way the grain on the stock comes alive instead of having a bland looking finish from the factory.

While you can visibly see how much wood you removed especially in the forend, do you think the rifle feels and balances any differently? And do you think the balance point has changed?


Great job!!


Martin

Mattole

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Re: Finally Completed My Lyman GPR Rebuild
« Reply #13 on: February 12, 2012, 09:52:39 AM »
Thanks for your kind words, Martin. I believe the balance point remained about the same, since I took a lot of material out of the buttstock area as well as the forend. Actually I took out a bit too much from the buttstock by changing the angle of the buttplate too radically, which effectively shortened the stock by at least half an inch. For a person with long arms this could perhaps be a problem but for me, of middle-height and arm length, the length of pull is just fine.