trigger thickness

[chuck-ia]

Made a simple single trigger today, all I had was a piece of .140" welding shop steel, just curious what thickness of metal you guys use for a single trigger? Maybe I am nitpicking a little but is the .140" too thick? I will pin this trigger up high through the wood, not in the trigger plate. I would think a pin through thicker metal would be a bit more sturdy than say 1/16" metal. One drawback might be having to hog a bit more wood from the stock to slide the trigger in the stock. Any oppinions? chuck-ia

[flehto]

I use .100 thick steel because that's what I've got. The triggers from this stock are one piece w/ a peened shoe. The last trigger was from 2 pieces...the trigger bar was .100 thick and the show was 1/16" thick Thought it might be easier w/ 2 pieces but high temp silver soldering these 2 pcs wasn't all that easy, so back to one piece. A close fitting slot in the trigger plate is more important than any benefit from thicker steel, to me anyways.....Fred

[Dphariss]

I use .100 thick steel because that's what I've got. The triggers from this stock are one piece w/ a peened shoe. The last trigger was from 2 pieces...the trigger bar was .100 thick and the show was 1/16" thick Thought it might be easier w/ 2 pieces but high temp silver soldering these 2 pcs wasn't all that easy, so back to one piece. A close fitting slot in the trigger plate is more important than any benefit from thicker steel, to me anyways.....Fred

Last one I made was for a set trigger and I used 1/8" and peened a shoe on it.  3/32 or even 1/16 can be used for a single trigger and a nice shoe peened out.





Dan

[Don Getz]

I rarely ever make my single triggers, much easier to buy a cast trigger and modify it to my needs.   Most of the cast
triggers, am talking about the flag, or the portion that is behind the trigger itself, are usually only about 1/16" thick.  As for wear on that hole, there is so little movement here I can't imagine wearing one out.  After all, that trigger is not spinning on that pivot pin.............Don

[Don Getz]

Dan......your trigger pictures were not posted yet when I posted my answer.    Those are some neat trigger parts you
have there.   Have never seen a single set made like that, but I like it.............Don

[Bob Roller]

That trigger is similar to some I made about thirty years ago for a German pistol maker.
He called it "Suhlerstecher"or "Kammerstecher".
I used .187 oil hardening flat ground steel and they worked fine.
I have another antique single set trigger from a Fenton Target pistol that was given to me by Lynton McKenzie.It still has the guard attached and is the English design with the cocking lever going the center of the striker bar. The French improved it a bit by putting an adjustment screw that contacts the sear. This is the most common style seen today. I made a few of these as well. The Germans have a word for these,"Franzoesicherruckstecher"and told me that most were made by watchmakers from time to time that lived in the French speaking section of Switzerland.
These are labor intensive to make and those words are no longer of interest to me.
I made my last ones in 1981.
Bob Roller

[Old Ford2]

Hello Bob,
That is one of the simplest single set trigger that I have seen.
Nice work!
Old Ford

[David Rase]

I start out with 1/8" mild steel sheet and peen a shoe about 3/8" wide.
Dave

[Dphariss]

Dan......your trigger pictures were not posted yet when I posted my answer.    Those are some neat trigger parts you
have there.   Have never seen a single set made like that, but I like it.............Don

This one is high profile an is in a swivel breech rifle.
I made another in lower profile for a pistol. Both work very well.

Dan

[chuck-ia]

Thanks guys,  chuck

[LynnC]

On the originals I've seen, rather thin iron seems to be the norm.  I make my single triggers from 1/16 to 3/32 steel peening the shoe.  I tried 1/8 once and it seemed too thick to me..............just my 2 cents..............Lynn

[Pete G.]

I do the same as Dave Rase. 1/8" and peen the face. I don't want the cast parts that everybody in the world has seen in a catalog, even if they do represent the styles that were most common.

[flehto]

Can't buy the Bucks County curled triggers, so have to make them, although because making triggers is kinda easy. i usually make  most of them. Occasionally buy one, esprcially if it's a Lancaster kit....Fred

[Acer Saccharum]

Most of the store bought ones I've used, I've had to modify severely. It's easier to start from scratch.