need advice on carving

[hortonstn]

when i'm trying to carve my designs in a new rifle i have a hard time seeing the deminsional look when looking on white curly maple i don't want to see my goofs when the first stain is applied  what do you do to enable you to see the good and bad before stain
thanks for your thoughts
paul
(hope this makes sense)

[Dphariss]

when i'm trying to carve my designs in a new rifle i have a hard time seeing the deminsional look when looking on white curly maple i don't want to see my goofs when the first stain is applied  what do you do to enable you to see the good and bad before stain
thanks for your thoughts
paul
(hope this makes sense)

Careful eyeballing, straight edges of various lengths and feel for lumps and high spots.
Often just water will let you see problems at least until the water evaporates.
Experience helps. Nice hard wood that holds together well is also a help.
I have one right now that only somewhat meets these qualifications...

Dan

[flintriflesmith]

"Raking light" is critical to seeing all the details in relief carving. The kind of flat even light produced by overhead lighting in most workshops actually hides both the 3 dimensional features of carving and any flaws.

John Bivins, who was one of the most talented carvers of the late 20th century, actually had his bench set up so he could effectively turn off the overhead light by tilting the bank of hanging fluorescent tubes away. He then used a high watt bulb in an articulated arm light to bring harsh, sharp light on the carving at a very low angle--- 10 to 30 degrees.

Ever since I saw that set up about 1970, I've used variations of it.

Another tip is to take the stock out into bright sunlight.

Gary

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

Gary, you've hit the ball squarely!!  A good example of using this method is chequering.  I turn off all the shop lights except for a 100 W. incandescent bulb over the bench.  Then as I rotate the stock in the cradle, or as is the case with a fullstock, in the vise, I see the lines sharply.  The same method applies to stock carving.

[bob in the woods]

Another thing which may help, [ although the raking light is critical ! ]  is to give the stock a light wash of stain. I used to use a light yellow aniline , but now just use my vin/iron solution. Let dry, then carve.

[hortonstn]

thanks for your input i'll give it a try
paul

[Acer Saccharum]

Any scratches or stab lines will show as dark lines, even with a light staining. Tearouts from rasps, and scratches from sanding(gasp) all show up if not eradicated before stain.

I have heard of staining the stock with a yellow dye to make the imperfections show up better. A brown or red stain will cover the yellow in subsequent stain operations.

[Hank*in*WV]

I use yellow food coloring. Any later stain hides it.

[Jerry V Lape]

If you have a decent digital camera with a macro lense function, take close ups of the stock when you think you are finished.  Then put the photos on your computer and zoom in.  Helps find lots of fuzzy and scratchy areas.  But the best is still the raking side light recommended earlier. 

[Keb]

One of these works great:

Of course, one with a bulb works much better Just move it around your work. It'll show you all the imperfections.

[Bob Roller]

All of my gun making looks like it was done in the dark. I'm not sure a bulb would help or hinder.
Actually,I have one of these clamp on lights hanging from the fluorescent fixture over my bench but that is my lock making area.The schnitzelbank or whittlers bench is in the back of the shop. It looks like Egypt after the 10 Biblical disasters.

Bob Roller

[flintriflesmith]

One of these works great:

Of course, one with a bulb works much better Just move it around your work. It'll show you all the imperfections.

Although more expensive a desk/table lamp --- often called an archetects lamp or a drafting lamp -- is much better. Cheaper ones come with a plastic socket and the best grade has a ceramic socket. http://www.amazon.com/Grandrich-G-2518-BLK-Incandescent-Architects/dp/B0007W1I84/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1322925592&sr=8-3
In either one an indoor flood light bulb is way better than a regular light bulb. The flood directs the light and doesn't heat up the plastic socket as much.
I believe there is no substitute for candlepower so I use 75 or, when I can find them, 90 watt bulbs.
Gary

[Pete G.]

It also helps to just sit and hold the rifle, turning it over in you hands and looking at different angles. Keep a pencil handy and circle any problem areas for attention later. A cozy fire and a drink of sour mash seems to help the process.

[Eric Krewson]

I rotate my wood outside in the late afternoon sunlight, everything shows up.

[TMerkley]

One of the best methods for looking for defects in wood is to shine a light just in front of your work and with just enough ambient light to shine backwards toward your work and look at it almost eye level.  You should start to see shadows that will instantly catch your eye.  I learned this working in an office furniture company working with "white-wood" (touch up before staining).  We used flourescent shop lights and held them at arms length.  Learned alot!  Hope this helps.

[Blacksmoke]

Paul:  All previous posts - good advise!   Do not be in a hurry to apply stain - however if you do and still find little "oops" or imperfections here and there, you can still address them with chisel , sandpaper and carving knife.  Then reapply stain to the corrected areas.   Hugh Toenjes

[rick landes]

Also consider using different types of lighting such as fluorescent, incandescent, halogen, etc. Each of our eyes is a bit different and a single type or a mix may give you best results.
I use halogen and incandescent for most stuff of detail. I use florescent for general lighting as drilling and machining. Some times a single up close incandescent work well for me for finer work.
I urge you to try several types to find "watt" works for you.

[Jim Kibler]

There have been lots of opinions given, but I'm with the advice of flintriflesmith.  He is a profesional and his work speaks for itself.  When people are largely self taught and dable in this stuff, many techniques and approaches arise, but when people gain experience and ability techniques seem to converge.  One thing that I think is important here is to present the profesional time tested techniques.   So to sum it up...  Set your work in a vise in a position you can acess it for carving.  Shut off fill light in your work environment.  Use an articulating arm light at a low angle to your work surface.  Move the light to make your work look as bad as possible.  Carve the stock.  It's as simple as this.

[jrice]

John Bivins used shadows on his carving to bring out imperfections before staining. It worked for him, it's worked for me. I glue 220 grit garnet paper onto popsickle sticks, then shape, to get into tight places. Good Luck. Jerry

[LehighBrad]

I guess that's why the master builders from the late 1700's had their work benches positioned in front of big windows in their rifle shops. I wish I had my own little workshop / shed just for rifle building. I have to settle for a basement 10' x 10' work area with two overhead florecent shop lights and an articulating drafting table lamp for my cross lighting when carving. Their is no substitute for good cross lighting. IMHO

[Herb]

I use two swing arm desk lamps with 75 watt bulbs, so I can reach each end of the stock,  but the best light is the warm afternoon sunlight coming in my south window.  I hold the stock in my hands and turn it so as to get a raking light.  That really shows the surface.