Barrel Choice

[hanshi]

A little tentative about posting this but here she goes anyway.  After I complete current projects I will be building a TN "poor boy"  flinter from a "kit".  The kit I'll use has already been selected except for the barrel.  Right now I'm leaning toward a .32 though .40 or .45 remains a possibility. 

It's my understanding that most Appalachian rifles, TN/SMR had straight barrels.  I prefer swamped barrels for hunting but that will cost extra.  Still, if it's justified I will save and go that route.  The barrel will be at least 38" but no longer than 40".  Weight is an issue and anything under 8 pounds is preferable. 

Any recommendations on barrel size (.32 and .45 in particular) or contour for a well balanced rifle not too muzzle heavy?  Rifling?

[rich pierce]

Tapered barrels are hard to find off the shelf but make a good choice.  I have a .45 that is tapered 15/16" down to 13/16", 42" long, that is as heavy and steady for offhand work as I want.  A .32 barrel tapered from 7/8" to 3/4" would probably weigh and hang about the same.  A straight 7/8" barrel in a .32 is going to be more muzzle heavy than most of us are used to.

Swamped barrels are going to handle better but not capture the heft and feel of most original late flint "poor boy" rifles.

[roundball]

The kit I'll use has already been selected except for the barrel. 

Rice has 38" Transition Series A-weight barrels in .32 and .36cal

[Bill of the 45th]

I got a Southern Mtn kit I'm building right now.  It has a 42" 3/4" Rayle barrel.  Weighs less than 7 pounds, and balances nicely.  Got it from Troy Roope, of Stonewall Creek Outfitters.  Got the pre carve without the lock inlet so I could do my own, and not worry about proper placement.  Also got a similar kit a few years back with an A weight swamped in .40 that Ken Guy built for me.  Super light, with great balance, it has a Late Ketland.  It also came from Troy.  Great Guy, and great service.

Bill

[T*O*F]

The kit I'll use has already been selected except for the barrel.

If it's a standard kit that is already profiled and has the barrel channel cut, you had better think twice about using a swamped barrel.  You may find that you run out of wood in some areas and have large gaps in others.  The kit must be carved to allow for the barrel.

[b bogart]

I'll second Bill's endorsement of a Rayl .32 x 3/4" barrel. Mines 42" long but my son grabs it once in a while and comments on how the "holds". Balances very nicely, but then the trigger pull is 14 1/2"
I love the way it shoots too. Very little powder, and very little lead. Recoil less than a 22 rimfire.

[G-Man]

The straight barrel thing is a bit of a misconception.  I have seen many, if not more, original Appalachian rifles with swamped barrels.  Some noticeably swamped, some almost imperceptibly. And some straight as well. and some even straight tapered.   But a lot of them were swamped, so don't hesitate to use a swamped barrel if that is what you prefer.  If you use one, you probably want to avoid one that has a lot of flare at the breech or muzzle though - they tended to have less severe taper and flare than some of the profiles out there today, and often the narrow waist was a lot farther back - sometimes even close to mid-section or just a tad forward.

Guy

[excess650]

Obviously the larger the bore in a given contour and length, the lighter the weight.  If you're limiting yourself to small game, the .40cal and smaller are fine.  I think you'll need a .45 to be legal for deer in Virginia.

I've shot a 3/4"x 42" barreled .40, and it was lightweight and relatively quiet.

[hanshi]

As much as I like swamped barrels a straight one may be the least problematic and definitely the least expensive.  If I do decide on a .32 it will be a 3/4".  Second choice (and probably a better one) is a .45 X38"x13/16".  A .45 is great for deer and probably could be made to do fine on small game.  I already have a .36 flint and a .32 caplock, anyway.  My rack also contains a nifty, featherweight .45 Lancaster 36".  Regardless, this will be my first actual "build".  These posts have given me lots to consider.

[roundball]

Second choice (and probably a better one) is a .45 X38"x13/16".

FWIW, my .40cal Late Lancaster has a straight 13/16" x 38" GM barrel and I wish it was a little heavier.
I just ordered a solid 3/8" brass ramrod to put some more weight out front to try and cut down muzzle wander for off hand shooting.

It would be even lighter if bored out larger to a .45cal. 

[hanshi]

Rb, How do you think a 13/16"x40"x.45 would handle considering it would be a TN style stock?

[Acer Saccharum]

I'm building a gun with a 7/8 across the flats at the breech, and 3/4 at the muzzle. Straight taper, .40 cal. It has very nice handling and pointing. I would not want to go lighter, personally. This gun feels really good, a comfy fit and weight. I think it will be a good shooter.

But when you talk to Roger Fisher, he likes a long heavy barrel for stability on the target. He wins a lot of matches. I don't.

At the end of the day, you'll have 50 opinions, and you must still make a choice. Good luck!

Tom

[roundball]

Rb, How do you think a 13/16"x40"x.45 would handle considering it would be a TN style stock?

Hanshi, I'm not qualified to answer that as I know nothing about a TN style stock.
Putting aside the stock...and just trying to imagine that 13/16"x40"x.45 to compare it to my 13/16"x38"x40cal...my "guess" is the weight/feel would probably be pretty similar.

[Dennis Glazener]

I agree with Gman most of the early (flint or converted flint) that I have seen do have swamped barrels but nowhere near the swamp of the A,B,C profiles of today. I would seriously consider the Getz lightweight barrel (I can't remember exactly what he calls it) or the Rice Southern Classic. Both are under .950" at the breech around .75 in the mid-section with the muzzle about .810. They are both excellent barrels for use on flint Appalachian Mountain rifles i.e. NC/VA. I am not that familiar with E TN rifles to say that.

My Mathew Gillespie has about the same proportions but much heavier starting with a 1.030 breech and muzzle around .957. But this makes a rifle that, in my opinion, is way to heavy for a hunting rifle. Mathew also made rifles with barrels close to the light weight ones mentioned above.

Dennis

[smylee grouch]

Hanshi: Dennis beat me to it, the two barrels he mentioned would be great for your project and you wont regret spending the little extra after you finnish the gun and carry and shoot it. Dave Keck can inlet it into the style of stock you want if I,m not mistaken.   Good luck and Happy Holidays.   Smylee

[Bob Roller]

I had a fine Southern style rifle made by Len Meadows of Shady Spring,WV in 1965. It had a Bill Large barrel, 45x13/16 that was 44 inches long,walnut full stock. Hardware was iron from a wrecked original,my lock and triggers and the whole gun weighed 7 pounds and 2 ounces.
Len Meadows died in 1976 and his rifles can be identified by the initials ALM on the top of the barrel and are hand engraved. He even made a few swivel breech flintlocks as well. He died of a big blood clot that tried to pass thru his heart and the evening before that,he was playing his banjo and had jammed a bit with the Country Gentlemen.

Bob Roller

[hanshi]

There is also - probably not a wise decision - the possibility I may try to scratch build it.  So many folks have done this with good results so maybe if I put my mind to it....who knows?

[LynnC]

Just for reference my So. Mtn. Po Boy Rifle has a 13/16 - 42' 36 cal bbl.  The gun weighs about 7 1/2 lbs and is a bit on the muzzle heavy side.  A 45 cal in 13/16 ought to balance fairly well and weigh in around 7 lbs.

Fear Not - Take your time - it'll turn out fine!

[Dr. Tim-Boone]

Hanshi. if you want something closer to scratch built but with the architecture set.... talk with Dennis about his Gillespie patterns and parts ...... Its not a kit, but all the parts he recommends will fit.......for a scratch build there is a lot of planning and measuring necessary to mae sure barrel and lock and stock will all work together..... don't ask how I know....

[Gaeckle]

Rb, How do you think a 13/16"x40"x.45 would handle considering it would be a TN style stock?

Depending on how you do it this should not be heavy.....

[hanshi]

For a first time build it'll have to be a straight barrel for me.  Going with a 13/16" in .45 I could go a bit longer without weight concerns.