How would you tackle this?

[David Rase]

Finally getting around to finishing up a Isaac Haines kit I picked up several years ago.  When I bought this set of parts I knew the stock was a second and had this defect to deal with.  Before I proceed with finishing I thought I would throw the question out to the board.  The 2 little strips of wood coming from the right hand side are not attached to the knot/bark inclusion underneath them.  These strips are thin and feather out.  Thanks for your help.
Dave   

[Lucky R A]

   I would probably inject a thinned ca talized glue into the whole area of the inclusion and the two little fingers of wood.  After the glue has thoroughly set I would work it just like the rest of the stock.  I think when you finish and possibly do a little creative "antiquing" the repair will hardly be no ticable, especially if you finish the stock slightly darker than usual.
    If you cut it out and add a plug you will get into more work than it is worth.   

Ron

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

Ron, do you mean:  a stainable water based glue?  I think it would work.  As long as no plasticized glue remains on the surface, AF or other stains should be fine.

[Lucky R A]

Taylor,  The inclusion will probably stain dark, but if it resisted the stain. I would just put a thinned seal coat of finish over the area and then go over it with some trans tint dye in a dark mission brown color.  As I told Dave I would "antique" the stock and this would involve dark staining both approaches to the cheek piece dark as well as the other areas that receive little or no wear. 

Ron

[David Rase]

Thanks for the idea Ron.  I had not thought about CA.  You and Taylor are on the right path, I want to build the area up while stablizing it and then work it with the rest of the stock.  A little antiquing would work fine.
Dave

[Nate McKenzie]

I think I would stain it before I used the CA.

[Frank]

I think I would stain it before I used the CA.

Yep, always stain first.

[mbokie5]

I think I would stain it before I used the CA.

Yep, always stain first.

Why is that?

[Acer Saccharum]

I think I would stain it before I used the CA.

Yep, always stain first.

Why is that?

Why? Because wood won't stain once CA glue has been applied. A dark stained maple stock will have a white patch where the CA has been applied.  Make the defect/joint as close to the color you think the finished gun will be, then glue it.

Dave, this flaw is in an area that naturally accumulates dirt and sees little wear. This is about the best place on the surface to have a flaw. In other words, count yourself lucky to have such a flaw.

Tom

[mbokie5]

Thanks. Glad I asked before I did something like that.

[b bogart]

I know what you mean Dave. This one is tight and hard tho. I have a scar on my right cheek so the gun just has one to match

[Curt Larsen]

I've had a lot of luck both on stocks and furniture with West System epoxy mixed with sanding dust from mahogany or teak which I have from boat work.  It comes out a very dark brown.  It is fileable and sandable and feathers in well.  There is no "white line" around the repair.  I use LMF cherry and Lancaster maple on my stocks and the epoxy matches well with the dark brown.  With a little gloss finish you can'f see any of the harder epoxy.  I generally finish with my turps, linseed, spar varnish mix and the epoxy blends in well.
Curt