Author Topic: Lock Tuning (Read 18789 times)

duca · « **on:** January 02, 2012, 08:43:20 PM »

Hi all "Happy New Year"! I'm looking to have someone fine tune a Flintlock for me. Any recommendations? Thanks

Dr. Tim-Boone · « **Reply #1 on:** January 02, 2012, 09:09:46 PM »

Wherer are you located Duca? New Jersey? So PA is close by...lots of good people there.

duca · « **Reply #2 on:** January 02, 2012, 09:13:41 PM »

Thanks; But but who? Need a name and number.

Tony Clark · « **Reply #3 on:** January 02, 2012, 09:34:18 PM »

What kind of lock is it? Some won't need much if any tuning, others can need a fair bit. And I take it your having problems with it? what kind?

duca · « **Reply #4 on:** January 02, 2012, 09:43:34 PM »

J. Chambers deluxe Siler.

duca · « **Reply #5 on:** January 02, 2012, 09:47:19 PM »

I polished all internal parts. It still feels like something is rough from the cock rest to safety. Safety to full cock is fine. also main spring is VERY strong from cock rest to safety.

duca · « **Reply #6 on:** January 02, 2012, 09:49:30 PM »

Oh. I had to file the top of the fly a little as it was scraping the under side of the bridle a little.

coutios · « **Reply #7 on:** January 02, 2012, 10:14:21 PM »

duca, Chambers locks a heavy draw to them at first. It will lighten the further you draw the cock back. A camming effect.. Have you applied a lube to ALL surfaces that make contact? Cycle the lock a few times and again inspect to marks..

Keep us posted

Regards
Dave

duca · « **Reply #8 on:** January 02, 2012, 10:36:19 PM »

Yes Sir! It is a heavy draw which I expect. but it feels a little rough. Not a smooth action. I know its a new lock and all but it just don't feel right. maybe it needs to brake in. I'm going to look at it again and see if I can trick it out some more.

Dr. Tim-Boone · « **Reply #9 on:** January 02, 2012, 10:44:26 PM »

perhaps the mainspring is rubbing against the lockplate? Somebody from PA will need to offer or refer. I know they are there but no exact locations or contact info. check the links section of this site.

duca · « **Reply #10 on:** January 02, 2012, 11:00:10 PM »

Thanks Dr. Nope. Main springs clear of plate.

mark esterly · « **Reply #11 on:** January 02, 2012, 11:12:27 PM »

why don't you just contact jim chambers?!

mark esterly · « **Reply #12 on:** January 02, 2012, 11:23:19 PM »

something just occured to me. check to see that the rear lock screw or a burr at the screw hole isn't rubbing the cock from rest to half cock

Tony Clark · « **Reply #13 on:** January 02, 2012, 11:36:13 PM »

what kind of lube are you using on the tumbler and foot of the mainspring. it is very important to adequately lube the contact surface from the 1st time you begin to work the lock.

eddillon · « **Reply #14 on:** January 02, 2012, 11:54:06 PM »

I have a product called Moly-Slide. Sell it through Bushmaster. Used to sell it to Brownells and Sinclair International. It is 60% Molybdenum Disulphide. I use it on all my locks. Works wonders on sears, pivots. makes frizzens work smoothly and predictably. Normally sell it for $8.95 for a 1 ounce jar (a little goes a long way).
Will sell it to forum members for $6.95.
Ed

duca · « **Reply #15 on:** January 03, 2012, 12:00:22 AM »

Ok, contacted J Chambers and talked to barbie. As long as the Lock sparks she said there really isn't any thing they could do. She said they make sure all there locks go out in working order and that maybe i'm Micro thinking it to much. Lol. Don't think so. Thats ok I will get to the bottom of it. I won't let it beat me. Kinda like a learning experience. 30 years doing this Flintlock thing..and loving every bit of it.

Tony Clark · « **Reply #16 on:** January 03, 2012, 01:00:33 AM »

Quote from: duca on January 03, 2012, 12:00:22 AM

Ok, contacted J Chambers and talked to barbie. As long as the Lock sparks she said there really isn't any thing they could do. She said they make sure all there locks go out in working order and that maybe i'm Micro thinking it to much. Lol. Don't think so. Thats ok I will get to the bottom of it. I won't let it beat me. Kinda like a learning experience. 30 years doing this Flintlock thing..and loving every bit of it.

duca , earlier I had mentioned that some brands of locks don't require any tuning right from the factory and Chambers fit that category. I can't believe they would send out a lock that wasn't in perfect working order. If you worked the lock without adequate lube on the foot of the mainspring and tumbler it could easily cause galling to those surfaces which would make the lock not operate smoothly. Those surfaces need to be carefully broken in and it made certain that there is adequate lube there.
If I was you I would inspect the mainspring tumbler surfaces closely and carefully repolish if necessary , and relube it real well then carefully try working the lock and see what happens.

Long John · « **Reply #17 on:** January 03, 2012, 01:10:11 AM »

Yardville is down near Trenton. that puts you about 2 hours from me in Oakland. If you want to bring it up I can show you how to tune up a lock.

Best Regards,

JMC

duca · « **Reply #18 on:** January 03, 2012, 02:15:26 AM »

Thanks guys, I'm checking it again and will let you know....

Jim Chambers · « **Reply #19 on:** January 03, 2012, 04:00:29 AM »

My suggestion is to carefully check the surface of the tumbler where the mainspring hook slides. We have a new lock assembler who is still learning all the fine points of lock assembly to check. If that surface of the tumbler is rough, a little careful stoning should smooth it right out. If you don't want to tackle this yourself, just send the lock back to us, and we will be glad check it out. But, if you have already polished the rest of the lock, this should be an easy chore and will save the cost of shipping it back to us.

duca · « **Reply #20 on:** January 03, 2012, 05:01:01 AM »

Thanks Jim, and every one else. I got the problem solved but discovered a new one.

the hammer is barely hitting the lock plate when it comes to rest. It seems that the hammer screw is not sitting at a 90 degree with the tumbler and is forcing the hammer down on the bottom of the hammer which in turn is moving the hammer away from the plate at top. to confirm this I started to file the bottom of the hammer then stopped to make sure I was right, I put a piece of a wood stirrer under the bottom of the hammer screw at the top in hopes that it would push the hammer back towards the plate. IT WORKED! I guess I have to continue filing the bottom of the hammer.

duca · « **Reply #21 on:** January 03, 2012, 05:21:01 AM »

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/560/1021201.jpg/

duca · « **Reply #22 on:** January 03, 2012, 05:24:13 AM »

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/40/1021203.jpg/

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/845/1021205.jpg/

Doc Or · « **Reply #23 on:** January 03, 2012, 05:52:52 AM »

Chambers has a new lock assembler.

I just ordered a new lock today, hope he/she didn't practice on mine.
I wanted the best so the Chambers assembled lock.

duca
Hope you get yours working. Actually you shouldn't have to get it working.

duca · « **Reply #24 on:** January 03, 2012, 06:04:38 AM »

I here ya doc. Think its going back. Bummer! I should not have to go though all of this. Allen martin is going to build me a rifle so I started getting some parts to keep cost down.

News:

Author Topic: Lock Tuning (Read 18789 times)

Tony Clark

coutios

Tony Clark

eddillon

Tony Clark

Doc Or