Making a trigger

[Old Ford2]

Are there any tutorials on trigger making?
Best regards
Old Ford

[Chris Treichel]

looks to be over 40 pages of posts on making all kinds of triggers if you use the search function

[welafong1]

totw has a BOOK-T Triggers, by Bill Newton . . . $5.95
Richard Westerfield

[Bob Roller]

All the double set triggers I have made over the last fifty years,with one or two exceptions have been two lever types,Fires set or unset if installed correctly. A good vertical milling machine with high quality, OD'd four flute end mills are a "must have" to get these to somewhere near proper dimensions. Reamed holes and polished drill rod pins also enhance the quality of such triggers as well. I use 0-1 if I have it and Low Carbon flat stcock if I don't and case harden it. They look good and work.

Bob Roller
 

[curly]

You can ask Bob Reader (Greybeard) too. He has made a set of triggers for me that match the quality of anything you could buy. He'll help you any which way he can. Good guy..good friend.

Curly

[camerl2009]

All the double set triggers I have made over the last fifty years,with one or two exceptions have been two lever types,Fires set or unset if installed correctly. A good vertical milling machine with high quality, OD'd four flute end mills are a "must have" to get these to somewhere near proper dimensions. Reamed holes and polished drill rod pins also enhance the quality of such triggers as well. I use 0-1 if I have it and Low Carbon flat stcock if I don't and case harden it. They look good and work.

Bob Roller
 

so your saying you need a milling machine to make a trigger  and why use low carbon id use 1095 in place of 0-1
luckily i have about 20 metal suppliers with in 10 min of me 

[Bob Roller]

I USE a milling machine because I have one and it expidites the work ACCURATELY. 1095 is spring steel. 0-1 is readily available to me as is the low carbon which I also make lock plates for caplocks from. I work with what I am comfortable with. You can use what you want to and whatever methods that you see as useful. I have my own methods,proven over five decades. I know there are probably people on this forum that use a hacksaw and file to get what they need but I'm not one of them.
By the way, I ALWAYS sign my correct name to anything I post and have no need or use for a "handle".

Bob Roller

[greybeard]

You know, I have been meaning to tell the folks about my scientific test for my set triggers. I told a friend and he assumed that I was just kidding. NOT SO!! 
 When The triggers are assembled and ready to go I set the triggers , balance a quarter on top and set them off. If the quarter pops up in the air 12 1/2 inches it will trip the sear.
This has worked for me every time!!
   

[Old Ford2]

I USE a milling machine because I have one and it expidites the work ACCURATELY. 1095 is spring steel. 0-1 is readily available to me as is the low carbon which I also make lock plates for caplocks from. I work with what I am comfortable with. You can use what you want to and whatever methods that you see as useful. I have my own methods,proven over five decades. I know there are probably people on this forum that use a hacksaw and file to get what they need but I'm not one of them.
By the way, I ALWAYS sign my correct name to anything I post and have no need or use for a "handle".

Bob Roller

I like your statement " I ALWAYS sign my name to anything I post and have no need for a "handle"
When I started this computer stuff the idea of a handle was always implied, on this site as well as others.
I could never figure out why.It appears that you have high values, and don't need a  "Nom de plume"
Best regards
Old Ford  ( Fred Ford )

[Bob Roller]

Fred,
One list I was on and may still be put a halt to "Handles"but I don't know if they still have that rule or not. I THINK the "Handles"started with the CB radio craze some years ago. Bill Large used "Red Bird" for a while because of the Cadillac Fleetwood he drove looked like fire truck. He quit the CB radio when he nearly ditched the Cadillac due to distracted driving.
I use wvgzr as my E mail which is short for West Virginia Geezer which is true.

Bob Roller

[camerl2009]

I USE a milling machine because I have one and it expidites the work ACCURATELY. 1095 is spring steel. 0-1 is readily available to me as is the low carbon which I also make lock plates for caplocks from. I work with what I am comfortable with. You can use what you want to and whatever methods that you see as useful. I have my own methods,proven over five decades. I know there are probably people on this forum that use a hacksaw and file to get what they need but I'm not one of them.
By the way, I ALWAYS sign my correct name to anything I post and have no need or use for a "handle".

Bob Roller

i dont give my real name out over the net other then that you can call me cam 

[Bentflint]

Fred, lets start over. What kind of trigger are you asking about?




<----------- real name

[Al Lapp]

Bob;
 Nice looking triggers by the way. I made a spring for my 86 Winchester one time with a hacksaw and file, uglier then heck but it worked.  Al

[Old Ford2]

Fred, lets start over. What kind of trigger are you asking about?




<----------- real name

Hi Bruce,
Mostly I am looking to make a simple trigger.
I've made several triggers, but would like ideas to make straight pin type, and curly type, also I would like the pieceing at the back of the trigger, but have no pictures or ideas of manufacture.
Single set triggers intrigue me as well.
Thank you for your concern!

Best regards.
Fred

[blunderbuss]

Nice triggers ..... you can call me anything but late to supper

Blunderbuss.. Dennis Heckathorne

[Bob Roller]

I think the "Bob"that made these triggers is Bob Reader,not me.  These are a fine looking job. Mine are entirely different.
A few years ago,I made some triggers that had a seperate engagement for the rear trigger to lock in to and the adjustment screw was in the rear of the front trigger and looks like the adjustment on a single set. The one advantage to this is that no matter how fine the thing is adjusted,the angle of the front trigger never changed. I have no plans to make any more due to the labor intensive natureof them.

Bob Roller

[greybeard]

I think the "Bob"that made these triggers is Bob Reader,not me.  These are a fine looking job. Mine are entirely different.
A few years ago,I made some triggers that had a seperate engagement for the rear trigger to lock in to and the adjustment screw was in the rear of the front trigger and looks like the adjustment on a single set. The one advantage to this is that no matter how fine the thing is adjusted,the angle of the front trigger never changed. I have no plans to make any more due to the labor intensive natureof them.

Bob Roller

Comeon folks, No mistake, Mr Roller is the master. I might be qualified to sweep his shop floor.
 No Comparison!!!          Cheers      Bob Reader

[Bob Roller]

The trigger I saw posted was good looking and of a better style than mine for a flintlock rifle.The triggers I make which are few,are more like the type used on percussion rifles and of course,the long bar Hawken types. If the trigger shown was made entirely by hand without a milling machine,my hat is off to you.
No floor sweeping needed,I use a shop vac and it gets indigestion mostly from steel shavings.Besides that,you are over qualified but thanks for the compliment.
I used to make fancy sculptured and styled set triggers but that was in the mid 1960's and even made some single set triggers but no more.It was fun then but today they would be far too  much in both time and cost. The one I mentioned earlier with the sear I think were about $140.The Germans called them "Stecherrastl",latched triggers.
One more thing,I'm not the master of anything that I can think of,not even my Dachshund,Gretl.

Bob Roller

[Frank Barker]

I may be partial here because I know Bob Roller and he is a fellow West Virginian and y'all know how us Hillbilly's stick together. I have had three guns with his locks and triggers and they are the best I have come across. One of those rifles was built by Mr George Suitor of Williamsburg fame. He's also a fellow Hillbilly. Bobs locks and triggers and Douglas barrels are hard to beat. Just couldn't resist that.     Kind Regards  Frank Barker

[greybeard]

The trigger I saw posted was good looking and of a better style than mine for a flintlock rifle.The triggers I make which are few,are more like the type used on percussion rifles and of course,the long bar Hawken types. If the trigger shown was made entirely by hand without a milling machine,my hat is off to you.
No floor sweeping needed,I use a shop vac and it gets indigestion mostly from steel shavings.Besides that,you are over qualified but thanks for the compliment.
I used to make fancy sculptured and styled set triggers but that was in the mid 1960's and even made some single set triggers but no more.It was fun then but today they would be far too  much in both time and cost. The one I mentioned earlier with the sear I think were about $140.The Germans called them "Stecherrastl",latched triggers.
One more thing,I'm not the master of anything that I can think of,not even my Dachshund,Gretl.

Bob Roller

Thanks Bob;  Yes, I refer to my hacksaw and drawer full of files as my "Mexican Milling Machine"
Takes a little while but gets the job done. When I took that pic the adjustment screw was not in
.
Cheers    Bob Reader

[greybeard]

I may be partial here because I know Bob Roller and he is a fellow West Virginian and y'all know how us Hillbilly's stick together. I have had three guns with his locks and triggers and they are the best I have come across. One of those rifles was built by Mr George Suitor of Williamsburg fame. He's also a fellow Hillbilly. Bobs locks and triggers and Douglas barrels are hard to beat. Just couldn't resist that.     Kind Regards  Frank Barker

Frank, I have used a few Douglas barrels back in the day and thay shot great. Never had the pleasure of using one of Mr. Rollers locks but I understand that they are among the best.   Bob Reader

[Bob Roller]

Those files are NOT "Mexican milling machines",they are "Armstrong mills".
If you do get a milling machine someday,you will appreciate even more the hard work involved in past endeavours. The one I use is a Clausing 8520 tool room mill I bought new in April of 1967. It still works as it did when new which is more than I can say for myself but then,I am coming up on 76 very soon.
Sixty degrees here and rain right now which is MUCH better than 6 and ice.

Bob Roller

[David R. Pennington]

I've used old circular saw blades for stock for triggers. Throw it in the woodstove and anneal it . Hacksaw to shape and forge in the vise with oxey/acet torch. My first try at a set trigger was made of an old wrench forged into the shape for the plate. I used spring stock from brownells forged for main spring and and old hacksaw blade for the front spring. My mistake was to use too small drill rod for back pin. Had to harden it very hard so it doesn't bend, but so far it hasn't broken. I don't have a milling machine but certainly would use it if I had one. These triggers work at least as well as the store bought ones I have on another rifle.

[greybeard]

My goodness Bob .  yer jest a young feller.
  I'm 78 this year. Feels like it too at times.
Cheers    Bob Reader

[Bob Roller]

Bob,
It sounds like we both went to grade school with Santa Claus or so I tell our younger grandchildren. Other than a bothersome BPH or at least I hope that's what it is,I feel fine.

Bob Roller