Author Topic: tapping breach  (Read 12232 times)

Offline Chris Treichel

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tapping breach
« on: January 06, 2012, 05:42:42 PM »
So I am trying to finish this barrel for my carbine project.  Internal barrel diameter is 17mm and I am trying to tap it for 3/4-16 tpi (not previously tapped) nothing fancy there... I have the taper and bottom tap.

Issue I have is that my kitchen/workshop doesn't exactly have a really sturdy vice mounting location... usually not an issue for doing small thread/tap stuff with a vice C clamped to the counter...  But this is not going so well.  Need more traction and ability to add torque without the vice getting pulled off the counter. (no, driling holes into the counter is not an option I would survive)

Any suggestions or am I going to have to go to the local gunsmith and ask him to chuck it in the lathe? Closest gunsmith is about an hour drive and has no clue what a muzzleloader is.

Online Dave B

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Re: tapping breach
« Reply #1 on: January 06, 2012, 05:55:27 PM »
All you need is a nice chunk of ply wood or section of 2X10  48" long to make a vice mount from. This can be attached to any surface with clamps and will hold every thing solid for what you are going to do. You could all ways take it out side and hose clamp it to the fence post for the procedure. The better thing to do is to ask around and you will find some one that has a work shop with a very solid set up to help with the task. I have always hated to impose on others and have always figured out a way to get it done with out resorting to that.
Dave Blaisdell

Offline Swampwalker

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Re: tapping breach
« Reply #2 on: January 06, 2012, 05:56:25 PM »
I've had 'shops' in my kitchen and in my office, but I always at least had a sturdy bench.  The bench doesn't have to be large, but it's pretty much essential if you're doing barrel and heavy stock work, at least in my experience.  You can work one up out of 2x4's and plywood.

Offline Jim Kibler

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Re: tapping breach
« Reply #3 on: January 06, 2012, 05:59:06 PM »
To ensure alignment of the threads to the bore, the best approach is to tap in the lathe.  With care, you may be able to do a good job otherwise, but it is a little less certain. 

Jim

Offline Ted Kramer

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Re: tapping breach
« Reply #4 on: January 06, 2012, 06:00:08 PM »
Chris,

I'd strongly recommend having the breech threaded in a lathe. It's way too easy to get a tap started a little crooked when doing it by hand. It may cost you a bit to get it done but you may well be $$ ahead in the end. If the gunsmith you mentioned  can't/won't do it, then I'm sure you will be able to find a m/l gunsmith you could send the bbl and plug to to have it fitted proper.

Ted K.

Offline Chris Treichel

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Re: tapping breach
« Reply #5 on: January 06, 2012, 06:13:04 PM »
Thanks gents,  I think I am going to go with seeing if the gun smith is willing to do it.  I know he has a three way mill in his shop. 

Offline T*O*F

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Re: tapping breach
« Reply #6 on: January 06, 2012, 06:22:38 PM »
Quote
Closest gunsmith is about an hour drive and has no clue what a muzzleloader is.

Chris,
This job does not require a gunsmith.  It's an operation that any journeyman machinist should be able to do.  Perhaps you have a local machine shop that's closer.
Dave Kanger

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-S.M. Tomlinson

Offline Dphariss

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Re: tapping breach
« Reply #7 on: January 06, 2012, 06:40:50 PM »
Center the bore using a 4 jaw independent.
Then bore to make a sharp square shoulder in the bottom of the recess.



Then tap






If the barrel is not tapped inline with the bore there will be problems in properly installing the breech.
Don't run the tap into the shoulder or it will damage the sealing surface and require recutting to smooth it.

Dan
He who dares not offend cannot be honest. Thomas Paine

Offline Chris Treichel

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Re: tapping breach
« Reply #8 on: January 06, 2012, 06:47:59 PM »
thanks Dan, nice pictures...

Offline T*O*F

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Re: tapping breach
« Reply #9 on: January 06, 2012, 08:11:25 PM »
Quote
Internal barrel diameter is 17mm and I am trying to tap it for 3/4-16 tpi (not previously tapped) nothing fancy there... I have the taper and bottom tap.

What's the elephant hiding in the refrigerator that no one ever mentions in these threads?  If you don't have access to a lathe, you must drill/enlarge an existing hole to the correct size for your taps.  This means that you must also acquire some Silver & Deming drill bits which will fit in the drill press you might have and it should probably have a 1/2" chuck on it and a slow rpm adjustment.  Your 1/4" drill ain't gonna do it.
Dave Kanger

If religion is opium for the masses, the internet is a crack, pixel-huffing orgy that deafens the brain, numbs the senses and scrambles our peer list to include every anonymous loser, twisted deviant, and freak as well as people we normally wouldn't give the time of day.
-S.M. Tomlinson

Offline D. Taylor Sapergia

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Re: tapping breach
« Reply #10 on: January 06, 2012, 08:23:19 PM »
For many years;  before I acquired a good lathe, I used my drill press to drill and tap barrels for breech plugs.  I rotated the table so that the barrel could be clamped vertically.  I bored a 1 1/2" hole in the drill press base to pass the barrel.  It still required a very steady hand, a stop on the spindle to limit depth of the tap drill, and it did not always turn out as I planned.
My lathe was a good investment.
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Offline Chris Treichel

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Re: tapping breach
« Reply #11 on: January 06, 2012, 08:30:22 PM »
at T*O*F ... its a 11/16th drill bit...
« Last Edit: January 06, 2012, 08:32:42 PM by Chris Treichel »

Offline Jim Kibler

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Re: tapping breach
« Reply #12 on: January 06, 2012, 08:33:18 PM »
Quote
Internal barrel diameter is 17mm and I am trying to tap it for 3/4-16 tpi (not previously tapped) nothing fancy there... I have the taper and bottom tap.

What's the elephant hiding in the refrigerator that no one ever mentions in these threads?  If you don't have access to a lathe, you must drill/enlarge an existing hole to the correct size for your taps.  This means that you must also acquire some Silver & Deming drill bits which will fit in the drill press you might have and it should probably have a 1/2" chuck on it and a slow rpm adjustment.  Your 1/4" drill ain't gonna do it.

Come on TOF,   I thought you would have surely referenced a thread chart before this post :)  The minor diameter of a 3/4" X 16 thread is listed at .673"  Converting 17mm  to inches yields .669" bore diameter.  With a good tap, there is no reason the bore can't be threaded at current size.  Also a drill press and bits is no way bore out the end of a barrel that requires it.

Jim

Offline Jim Kibler

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Re: tapping breach
« Reply #13 on: January 06, 2012, 09:01:55 PM »
Let me also add, before someone jumps on it, that it is nice and perhaps ideal if the breech plug bears on a shoulder, but is not an absolute necesity.  Many thousands of original barrels were breeched this way and worked fine.  A good tight thread fit will seal things up fine. 

Online rich pierce

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Re: tapping breach
« Reply #14 on: January 06, 2012, 10:34:52 PM »
Let me also add, before someone jumps on it, that it is nice and perhaps ideal if the breech plug bears on a shoulder, but is not an absolute necesity.  Many thousands of original barrels were breeched this way and worked fine.  A good tight thread fit will seal things up fine. 

Unheard of!  Blasphemy!  Actually I think? everyone would have to agree and the insistence on the shoulder is mostly to prevent fouling and moisture accumulating right there.  Is that the consensus?
Andover, Vermont

Offline Dphariss

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Re: tapping breach
« Reply #15 on: January 06, 2012, 11:00:35 PM »
Let me also add, before someone jumps on it, that it is nice and perhaps ideal if the breech plug bears on a shoulder, but is not an absolute necesity.  Many thousands of original barrels were breeched this way and worked fine.  A good tight thread fit will seal things up fine. 


Actually things like this are likely to occur.





Or this


Had this one been shot with Perchlorate powder to any extent it would likely have been ruined. As it was it cleaned up OK, but being in a completed rifle the fouling trap was not really fixable without a lot of work that was not authorized.

At the very least fouling leakage in the threads will occur. The notched breech face for the vent leads to fouling leakage into the threads even if the breech was initially fitted properly. Our modern thread fits increase this.
If the barrel is breeched sloppily and the firearm is percussion and used with corrosive substitute powders as many percussion guns are there is a potential problem. BP fouling is fairly inert if the oxygen/airborne moisture is cut off such as by being oiled. Perchlorate fouling will continue to attack the metal under an oil film. It will literally eat "crawdad holes".
So a fouling trap coupled with virulent chlorate fouling is a recipe for having holes rust through from the inside out.

The idea that sloppy work done in the past is justification for sloppy work today does not fly with me.
Sloppy work is sloppy work if its done in 1770 or 2012.
I strive to avoid it.

Dan
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Offline Jim Kibler

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Re: tapping breach
« Reply #16 on: January 06, 2012, 11:25:47 PM »
On these examples, was the breech threaded at bore diameter or was the plug not seated against a shoulder.  These are two very different situations.  

Perhaps Taylor will help me out here, but I recall a well fitted plug that he removed from an original high quality British double that was threaded at bore size with a tight fitting thread and it was near perfectly clean.  I will repeat, this method of breeching was very common on original guns, even some of very high quality.  

Dan, I have to say that you are often like a broken record.  Whether it's breech plugs, touch hole liners or stock finishes, you establish an opinion and then hold on to it like your life depends on it.  Just to let you know, it sometimes pays to be a little more open minded.  Things are not necessarily how you believe them to be.  You're far from the final word.  Now I fully expect a page long diatribe on how guns breeched without a shoulder are unsafe, unfit to use etc.  Please don't let me down ;D
« Last Edit: January 07, 2012, 01:28:15 AM by Jim Kibler »

Offline T*O*F

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Re: tapping breach
« Reply #17 on: January 07, 2012, 02:53:06 AM »
Quote
Come on TOF,   I thought you would have surely referenced a thread chart before this post
You're right, of course.  Better to keep one's mouth shut and be thought a fool, etc. etc. etc.

Anyway, for some reason, I had to buy a couple of S&D bits in 33/64ths and 37/64ths several years back to breech a couple of barrels and now I can't remember why. 

I've done them the same way Taylor describes and they've all worked out well.  The size and speed of one's drill press is significant.  A bore sized bit is run into the bore and the barrel squared up and securely clamped off of it.  The hole is bored, bit removed, and tap installed.  The chuck is then lowered and turned by hand to cut the threads.
Dave Kanger

If religion is opium for the masses, the internet is a crack, pixel-huffing orgy that deafens the brain, numbs the senses and scrambles our peer list to include every anonymous loser, twisted deviant, and freak as well as people we normally wouldn't give the time of day.
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dannybb55

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Re: tapping breach
« Reply #18 on: January 07, 2012, 03:27:55 AM »
I m not a machinist, just a blacksmith, maybe it would be better to flux an iron plug and forge weld it in like in the old, old, old days.

Offline Jim Kibler

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Re: tapping breach
« Reply #19 on: January 07, 2012, 03:41:42 AM »
Are you serious ??? ??? ??? ???

Offline D. Taylor Sapergia

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Re: tapping breach
« Reply #20 on: January 07, 2012, 06:38:32 AM »
Here's those photos I took when I unbreeched the Staudenmayer flint double barrels.



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Offline Dphariss

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Re: tapping breach
« Reply #21 on: January 07, 2012, 07:28:11 AM »


Dan, I have to say that you are often like a broken record.  Whether it's breech plugs, touch hole liners or stock finishes, you establish an opinion and then hold on to it like your life depends on it.  Just to let you know, it sometimes pays to be a little more open minded.  Things are not necessarily how you believe them to be.  You're far from the final word.  Now I fully expect a page long diatribe on how guns breeched without a shoulder are unsafe, unfit to use etc.  Please don't let me down ;D

Wow I guess I should not have taken all the stuff out of the other post.
You know what I could quote a friend: "if I have to explain this you ain't gonna get it anyway". But that might be "insulting" so I will try anyway.

I tried to explain how to do something right. This immediately must be countered.
Was I WRONG? If not whats the point of discussing threaded bores?
I am like a broken record because the "lets build a wall hanger grade gun then shoot it" mentality is like a broken record here as well. But if you are KNOWN to the people here some of the most incredible statements concerning REALLY frightening gun making "processes" pass without comment. I don't comment since I am from too far west and will be attacked if I say something unflattering about certain idiotic, frightening, statements I have seen here. As another poster told me "its impossible to know how to respond" to one such post. Apparently nobody else did either. I suspect that most did not understand the import.

I am pretty careful about nipple seats too. A surprising number of these blow out it seems. Poor design and fitting (that thread slop thing again I guess). But we probably should not go there or ask for a show of hands for how many people may have experienced it. BTW I did. Its one of the reasons I prefer flint.
Then there is my experience with sloppily made reproduction 19th century breech loaders and the scary things I learned about improperly fitted parts that are supposed, for example, to keep the cartridge case IN the barrel until removed by the shooter not auto ejecting cutting a groove in the shooters hair, honestly, this only happened to ONE of the people who reported this to me. Not related? Ill fitted gun parts are ill gun fitted parts. Blackpowder was still the propellant. Its astounding the things that can be gotten away with.
I tend to rant over things because I know of scary things that have happened to people.
I suppose people think that I just make this stuff up from thin air. Not so.
I started making guns as a teen. I bought parts and screwed them together. Breechplugs were often shorter than the threads in the barrel. I did various things to fix it until I finally learned that it is not supposed to be this way and that being in too big a hurry or being too lazy to get the gun done was not an excuse for failing to do it right. So I try to explain how to make things with more care and knowledge.

I use plastic finishes. I just put some on the window trim behind the lathe the other day. I figure its more cutting oil resistant and it was easy, never going to be outside, whats not to like?
I have SEEN what the plastics look like on friends stock work. Its not guessing. But nobody wants to do the testing to show that the stuff they use is brittle and will crack. Better to just keep using the stuff since someone else says its OK.

LOTS of guns have been and will continue to be breeched with no shoulder.
But like many things its SITUATIONAL some MUST BE breeched this way. EVERYBODY KNOWS THIS AND ITS BEEN DISCUSSED BEFORE. Some large bore pistols and other thin wall barrels sometimes don't have the wall thickness for a shoulder. Not wise imo but there it is.
 I pulled original plugs from doubles in 1967+- and 1971 that were this way. But you know what? THEY FAILED TO INDEX WHEN REINSTALLED AND WERE THEN LOOSE . I think most people here know I know this was done and it was not part of the discussion nor was it needed but it gives someone something to counter with if I say a shoulder is the best way. Frankly its apples and oranges and YOU KNOW THIS. So frankly you can take your Chicksh*t attitude and stuff it. If you don't like my posts DON'T READ THEM.

Most rifle and other long gun barrels have sufficient barrel wall to allow a plug large enough to use a shoulder it need not be large after all.  So GENERALLY for the question that was asked its best to shoulder the plug unless the BARREL maker taps the bore for the plug as some do or use a common drill for a tap drill then there is no shoulder in either case unless the plug is bigger than people of this ilk tend to use. So other than in certain situations where it really is unavoidable not seating on a shoulder is a CHEAP, SLOBBY WAY TO BREECH A BARREL. But of course this makes people uncomfortable if they make barrels that are tapped as described and it makes the people who use the barrels uncomfortable since they don't bother to fix the problem.

Now vs then. Again.... Since it apparently did not soak in the first time.
I get the idea that people think that the breeches put in in 1770 or what ever have .005" or so "tolerance" in the threads we find in modern taps and dies. I think that this is an error for the most part (there are few absolutes). There is a built in slop in all modern threads, its called "interchangeable parts" this way a person can run the local hardware store and buy a tap and a bolt of the same size and thread, tap a hole and the bolt will screw in it. The bolt is a few thou UNDER and the tap a few OVER. Hey it fits and Joe 6 Pack is happy.  BUT THESE THREADS WILL LEAK ANY FLUID PUT AGAINST THEM.
The only way to minimalize this if no shoulder is used is to:
1. grind a true bottoming tap that really bottoms at near full thread.
2. Make the breech plug with a expandable die so it has minimal clearance in the threaded hole. You cannot buy one that is this tight. So the average person who tries to do the tap the bore thing CANNOT DO IT RIGHT BECAUSE THE THREAD TOLERANCE IS WRONG.

But of course the average person may have a little difficulty with this if the threads are cut out of line the  bore which can happen. I start all such threading operations on the lathe then finish with a split die
Now turn the plug in carefully filing the the face and threads until the threads on the plug fill the threads in the barre and the tang aligns as desired.
But of course its easier just to screw a plug in and let someone down the road worry about it.
Its actually easier to put the plug against the shoulder if the barrel has sufficient wall, easier, works better. But we would rather argue that not ALL barrels are breeched this way.
The point of sites like this should be to try to advance the art not continue to make mistakes or recreate errors.  I don't sing "if it was good enough for my Father it is good enough for me".
Just screwing the plug up into the end of the threads will not work well due to the slop in the threads.
BTW a "screw in the tap and then screw in the store bought plug" breech will also leak oil and even cleaning solvents into the stock until its fully plugged with fouling. But that don't matter I guess if enough plastic is soaked into the stock.
But of course if its CHLORATE fouling that is another matter.
So finally: Nope its not necessary to do it right. The threaded joints are generally so strong that there is no chance of it blowing out.  People can live with locks that dribble out priming or fall off 1/2 cock and fire, yeah, saw that at a match, it was not repeatable with a couple of experienced gunsmiths looking at it, just a cheap mass produced lock. But hey, the ball missed the guys head by a foot or so, why worry? No harm no foul right?
People getting their faces cut by cap fragments because the people making the guns can't be bothered to make the breech right. Not any more work, they were just too ignorant to make it right and it would cost too much to fix now, if they even care. So its not safe to shoot for the shooter or those around them.
Drums that will break off since they are made of cold rolled with low charpy test numbers. Yeah it happened to me and some other people have reported it too. Is there a widespread call for better drums? Nope. Best not to talk about it. The thing only went through a storm door, not like it was someone's head or anything.
The list is a long one if people UNDERSTAND and pay attention. But if someone points out that is does not have to be be this way, that a change in process can fix it, someone will come up with the Three Stooges Grade "it works OK for me " or that's not 100% true" defense. After all they own or maybe made a POS just like this so it HAS to be OK.
It makes it very difficult to try to educate shooters as to what things should be when they already own some cheap POS that needs fixing. They get their back up. After all THEY could not be so ignorant as to buy something that is faulty. So the ability to learn gets shut off by ego.
If the thing DOES break the shooter will likely hide it since several fools told him, perhaps in some magazine article, how wonderful the thing was so it must be his fault. The same thing seems to occur with burst barrels. After all we all know it's impossible to burst a barrel with BP.

So I am sure just wasted a lot of time. I need to be on the road a 4am.
But like Churchill said if the point is worth making its worth pounding on (paraphrasing).
What is the position on the pressed in breechplugs some of the japanese made barrels had in them???

Dan

He who dares not offend cannot be honest. Thomas Paine

Offline Jim Kibler

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Re: tapping breach
« Reply #22 on: January 07, 2012, 08:17:20 AM »
Wow! That is quite a manifesto there Dan.  You certainly didn't disappoint! ;D

All the best,
Jim 

Offline James Wilson Everett

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Re: tapping breach
« Reply #23 on: January 07, 2012, 02:57:35 PM »
Guys,

Oh Wow!  Now may I put in my 2 cents? 

1.  Absolutely the breech plug should seal tightly against the shoulder in the bore, really no doubt in my mind on this.  When this is properly done in a wrought iron barrel (significantly more ductile than even leaded steel) the force at the bore shoulder will actually slightly constrict the bore I.D. as the breech plug face slightly upsets the shoulder.  Really this joint can be nearly airtight.  Often I have to remove the breech plug and clean up this constriction to allow a cleaning jag/patch to pass through the unbreeched barrel.

2. When we compare 18th c breech threads to modern ones we make a big mistake.  As Dan stated above, typical modern tap/die threads are rather sloppy on purpose, the female threads are not formed at all close to fill height.  Try this, run a hardware store nut on a bolt about half way down the thread, then wriggle the nut - see how loose it is!  18th c threads are a whole lot more tight than modern ones.  Dan's idea about the adjustable die helps here, but it probably still falls short of an 18th c thread fit.  Most often when I breech a barrel that I have made I have to apply lapping compound to the threads and gradually lap in the breech because the threads are so very tight.  There is almost no male/female thread clearance in 18th c threads.  Oh yes, I do not use modern tap/die, I use 18th c tooling only, check out the topic "18th c breech threads".  Old guns that now have sloppy threads are probably the result of a century of corrosion, not an ill fitting original job.

3.  I think that it is important that we treat each other with dignity.

Jim Everett

Tony Clark

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Re: tapping breach
« Reply #24 on: January 07, 2012, 03:42:34 PM »

3.  I think that it is important that we treat each other with dignity.

Jim Everett

Nothing undignified about this thread in my opinion. I think we are all here to learn in some way, or should be. That can be difficult when people form opinions that may not be based on the most intelligent way to approach a certain situation, and who try to make up for it by repeating them over and over again in an attempt to give them validity while not considering what others have to say and who fore go the opportunity to continue to learn. This is a forum to share ideas and having strong opinions is fully OK the way I see it. If a person doesn't have strong opinions about things I think that reflects the amount of study they have done on the matter. But it is not a contest where he who talks the most wins. Just my opinion on the matter.
« Last Edit: January 07, 2012, 03:53:18 PM by Tony Clark »