Author Topic: Building a Flintlock Duell Pistol (Read 45374 times)

Chris Treichel · « **Reply #25 on:** January 27, 2012, 04:08:25 PM »

that is very nice work and photography

Any accounts of duels I have read and legal clean up afterwards wether with pistol, sword or blunderbusses in baloons only seemed to care that both parties were equally armed with neither side having a material advantage.

brobb · « **Reply #26 on:** January 27, 2012, 05:58:54 PM »

Runar

I just wanted to let you know how much I enjoy your sharing your project with us. I appreciate your many and excellent photographs.

Bruce Robb

Looking foreward to your next post!

Chris Treichel · « **Reply #27 on:** January 27, 2012, 06:15:27 PM »

Was the front hook on the lock plate cast as part of the plate or added by you?

Notchy Bob · « **Reply #28 on:** January 29, 2012, 04:23:01 AM »

The quality of workmanship I see on this forum continues to astonish me. I'm doing well when I can get a knife handle installed on a blade blank.

Anyway, for more information about duelling pistols in general, the Canadian Journal of Arms Collecting has a number of pertinent articles in their back issues. These are available from the Museum Restoration Service. This link has tables of contents for all of the back issues. An article in the February 1979 issue (Vol. 17, #1) has the particularly intriguing title of "Anatomy of a Duelling Pistol."

I have a number of issues of this journal. The articles tend to be pretty good, although many of them are rather brief.

Notchy Bob

runastav · « **Reply #29 on:** January 29, 2012, 01:55:53 PM »

Hi and thank you guys!
Chris Treichel, cast as part of lockplate.

So it is the sliding safety. See the photos.

The safety flatspring was not in the plastikbag from Blacley, so it must be made of 1,5mm flat springsteel.
Photo show spring in on and off the sear spring is svinged up for view.

runastav · « **Reply #30 on:** January 31, 2012, 01:35:17 PM »

Hi Folks!
Oops, @!*%?& the hammer safety lever and stirrup is TOOO thin for casehardening

New stirrup made fast of springsteel much stronger

Blachley must be clairvoyant there was 2 hammer safety lever in the plastikbag

The Manton lock is almost ready for the stock!
Runar

Jaw screw and hammer screw

Hudnut · « **Reply #31 on:** January 31, 2012, 04:34:42 PM »

The lock looks really good!
Is it possible that these two small pieces are high carbon steel intended to be hardened and drawn, rather than mild steel to be casehardened?
I used a piece of O-1 drill rod for the last stirrup I made, to replace the broken one in a 19th century double shotgun lock.

Bob Roller · « **Reply #32 on:** January 31, 2012, 04:54:19 PM »

These little links or stirrups are made better when made from flat stock.The stiffness of most cast mainsprings can be a prescription for disaster if the usually flimsy cast links can break at full cock and the mainspring will come down hard and take the bottom out of the lock mortise.
Are these English castings as precisely done as ours? I have never seen any of them but percussion hammers and are they of known materials when it comes to hardening them?

Bob Roller

Jim Kibler · « **Reply #33 on:** January 31, 2012, 05:49:32 PM »

Runar,

On thin case hardened parts (pack hardened or carburized), it's a good idea to draw them back, at least in the thin areas. A torch will work fine for this process. I would temper back to at least 500F and probably a little more. Tempering on case hardened parts is a good thing. A great deal of toughness is gained for a small sacrifice in hardness. If colors are an objective, then tempering may ruin them depending on the temperature used. That's a beautiful lock for sure.

Jim

Rolf · « **Reply #34 on:** January 31, 2012, 07:41:33 PM »

Quote from: Bob Roller on January 31, 2012, 04:54:19 PM

These little links or stirrups are made better when made from flat stock.The stiffness of most cast mainsprings can be a prescription for disaster if the usually flimsy cast links can break at full cock and the mainspring will come down hard and take the bottom out of the lock mortise.
Are these English castings as precisely done as ours? I have never seen any of them but percussion hammers and are they of known materials when it comes to hardening them?

Bob Roller

I bought two wogden flintlocks and two Le Paige percusion lock sets from Blackley. He uses lost wax casting and they are top quality.
The springs are cast in EN8,carbon content to approximately 0.75. The rest of the parts are EN3b, max 0.24 carbon. The frizzens have to be case harden.

Best regards

Rolf

runastav · « **Reply #35 on:** February 03, 2012, 04:50:14 PM »

Thank you guys!
The lock in place, sorry Manton not perfect but good enough for me

Runar

runastav · « **Reply #36 on:** February 06, 2012, 01:35:22 PM »

Hi Folks!
The trigger is made and in place, and yes Taylor it is high

Runar

greybeard · « **Reply #37 on:** February 06, 2012, 08:44:13 PM »

runastav; You never cease toblow my mind away!!! Bob Reader

runastav · « **Reply #38 on:** February 08, 2012, 07:33:02 PM »

Hey!
Greybeard, remember my English reading and writing is simple Sailormanenglish

The triggerplate, good stuff this parts from old BMW car hehe.
Runar

D. Taylor Sapergia · « **Reply #39 on:** February 08, 2012, 08:05:34 PM »

Runastav...Your skill is noteworthy.

There are two things I'd have done differently. I think there's too much wood below the lock. It tends to place the tail of the lock above centre in the wrist. If it were mine, I'd deduce the vertical height of the stock at the lock/trigger area. That will mean changing your already-installed trigger too.
Second, the trigger plate, to my eye, would look better if it were completely flat, without the rounded forward surface, and those details added with engraving instead. I think the trigger plate should be inlet flush with the wood, which as I said, is too thick along the bottom of the stock, in my humble opinion.

JDK · « **Reply #40 on:** February 08, 2012, 08:20:53 PM »

In this case the trigger plate is also the front trigger gaurd extension so, even though it is not per the original example, I believe it looks good as is though it may not be correct. I guess it is all about taste in this case. Nice file work, by the way. J.D.K.

Jim Kibler · « **Reply #41 on:** February 08, 2012, 09:28:04 PM »

You are doing good work Runar, but it could probably benefit by slowing down a bit. All the details add up to a finished project. Specific to this project, there is little room for interpretation and variation. But I understand everyone is not happy with the same approach to gunbuilding, and that is ok. Consider these just some suggestions intended to help. Good luck.

Jim

runastav · « **Reply #42 on:** February 10, 2012, 01:00:44 PM »

Hey Folks!
Thank you guys, and off coarse I listen to pro me only a ex industry mechanic

Taylor I will reduse the hight ca 2,5mm and redrill the triggerhole agry the tail must center the wrist. Ok, the standing breech is now ready for action and the triggergard on its way out of pipe.
Runar

runastav · « **Reply #43 on:** February 12, 2012, 03:15:36 PM »

Hey Folks!
Trigger guard made, 2,5mm wood off it will be a slim duellpistol

Runar

Ionian · « **Reply #44 on:** February 12, 2012, 06:04:10 PM »

I'm surprised no one has mentioned the distance from the trigger bar pivot point to the sear engagement. To my eye it looks a little long resulting in a heavy pull. I really enjoy your builds, keep up the good work.

Jim Kibler · « **Reply #45 on:** February 12, 2012, 07:18:58 PM »

Yeah, it does look a little long. With that said, I think our tendency today is to place it closer than is typically encountered with period work. I've seen 1/2" - 3/4" to be typically on the original guns I've had a chance to examine. Setup well, a pull that is not too heavy and has little creep can be obtained.

Jim

greybeard · « **Reply #46 on:** February 12, 2012, 09:03:58 PM »

Quote from: Ionian on February 12, 2012, 06:04:10 PM

I'm surprised no one has mentioned the distance from the trigger bar pivot point to the sear engagement. To my eye it looks a little long resulting in a heavy pull. I really enjoy your builds, keep up the good work.
[/quote
Yes!! The trigger pull might be a bit heavy in the prerent location. With a bit more curve in the trigger it could be mover back perhaps 3 /8 inch and make for a much nicer let off with minimal creep.
Bob Reader

James Rogers · « **Reply #47 on:** February 12, 2012, 10:11:25 PM »

Quote from: Jim Kibler on February 12, 2012, 07:18:58 PM

Yeah, it does look a little long. With that said, I think our tendency today is to place it closer than is typically encountered with period work. I've seen 1/2" - 3/4" to be typically on the original guns I've had a chance to examine. Setup well, a pull that is not too heavy and has little creep can be obtained.

Jim

Timely! I was a fixin to post about sear bar/ trigger pin relationships between originals and modern guns.

runastav · « **Reply #48 on:** February 14, 2012, 03:37:57 PM »

Hi and thank you all!
Like said before, all parts in this lock is very small. Including the Tumbler and its notch. The full cock notch is so small that creep dont exist. The triggerweigth is just a litle heavyer than the gun ( ca 1 kilo) perfekt for me

So I made the underbarrel rib from 12x8mm barstok.
Runar

The front timbler is silversolder on, the rib soft solder on barrel

Keb · « **Reply #49 on:** February 14, 2012, 11:44:53 PM »

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Author Topic: Building a Flintlock Duell Pistol (Read 45374 times)

brobb

Notchy Bob

greybeard

Ionian

greybeard