Need help with some lock tuning and assembly questions

[Ky-Flinter]

I need to get this L & R Bailles lock operational for my pistol project.  I got the lock second hand but it appears new, frizzen hasn't had a strike.  It was disassembled when I got it and I have not assembled it yet.

This thread ain't for bashing L & R, so please refrain from that.  I need help with learning what to do, so let's keep the replies in that vain, please.

First questions are about the link between the tumbler and main spring.  It's a little bent.  Is that normal?  Can I use this one as is or do I need a new one?



I can't tell, are the seats for the link in the tumbler a little off from square?  Maybe that's what bent the link?
 


I figured I would use stones to clean up and square up the sear notches.  Any suggestions on what to do?  Or not do?



Note that the base of the topjaw screw doesn't line up square with the top surface of the topjaw.  Should I file the front of the bevel on the top of the topjaw so they mate better?



Any other suggestions to this apprentice lock-filer will be most appreciated.

-Ron

[FALout]

Leave the top jaw alone, it looks like theres a slag or something there either on the cock or the top jaw that could be hanging it up, the tumbler can be touched up with stone, just becareful not to change anything, keep things square, just clean up the edges that have been damaged.  The link is no good, get a new one, pay attention to how you install, I believe it makes a difference which way it goes.  As for the tumbler in that area, your pic isn't very clear so hard to tell if it's damaged, if it looks damaged, get another one.

[Bob Roller]

The arm of the tumbler and the link seems to match and may be cast that way.
  The top jaw doesn't have to be level or parallel because the hole is usually bigger that the screw that goes thru it. Nothing to worry about.
  Forget about "stones".I am assuming these are small three cornered and knife shaped abrasives used to FINISH with. On that tumbler,I would use small files and use them carefully THEN if the lock worked,use the "stones" to finish with. On my new locks,I use a sharp triangular smooth hone for final detail on the full cock notch and that's it.
Check the hole in the sear and the screw that goes thru it. I allow about .001 clearance--
I use a .110 reamed hole and a .109 screw to get the results I want. I have seen some new locks that the sear screw fits like a broom handle in a garbage can.

Bob Roller

[Pete G.]

Top Jaw is supposed to be that way. I would use a diamond needle file on cleaning up the tumbler to make certain that the link groove is both square and even. I would definately get a new link. That is a pretty highly stressed part so anything not right is asking for trouble.

[Bob Roller]

That link looked like it was cast that way and the cradle it hooks into looked lke it was angled to match but that could also be an optical confusion. I use the externals from three L&R locks from time to time but am not familiar with the innards of a stock version of any of them.

Bob Roller

[P.W.Berkuta]

I have this lock on a .36 cal squirrel rifle and it is fast. The only issue I have is that the parts are very hard and brittle. I have broken one "ear" off the tumbler by not seating the stirrup correctly on the tumbler. That tumbler looks a little beat - do you have the fly for it? If it was me I would replace both the tumbler and the stirrup and not "fiddle" with trying to fix those parts - just keep them as spares  .

[BJH]

Look carefully at the relationship of the tumbler forks ,link, and the hooks on the mainspring. The knobs on the link are meant to be a one way fit, thats why the hooks on the tumbler are a bit diffierent. If you assemble these wrong and try to cock the lock you will break one of the three parts. Assemble the lock completely, and test before you modify anything. My expierence with older L&R locks was good with little or no modification needed, just cosmetic polishing etc. BJH