Author Topic: .62 smoothbore loads  (Read 4281 times)

stone knife

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.62 smoothbore loads
« on: February 07, 2012, 02:03:33 PM »
Whats working out the best in a .62 smoothie for both shot and PRB.

Daryl

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Re: .62 smoothbore loads
« Reply #1 on: February 07, 2012, 06:11:17 PM »
In my choked 20 bore, I use 75gr. powder measure which throws about 1- 1/16thoz. , along with a 70gr. measure of 2f (just over 2 1/2 drams equivelence), with normal 3-wad system, or an 82gr. measure (3 drams) which holds 1 1/8oz shot with a 75gr. measure 2 3/4drams of 2f with the same 3 wad system.

The standard 3 wad system is an 1/8" hard card over powder, then prelubed 1/2" fibre wad (usually wall board donaconna), then a thin "B" over shot wad.

I see little difference in the above loads in my 20 bore on clay birds. My short gun had about an improved cylinder choke maybe .006 to .008"") at the end of the barrel - European style with a 1 1/8" "end choke" - not a crimped US style, nor jug-choked like some originals and like normally lapped or reamed into more modern ML barrels. It throws close to an improved choke pattern, which is about perfect for a BP shotgun- for me.

robert

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Re: .62 smoothbore loads
« Reply #2 on: February 08, 2012, 03:08:35 AM »
I have found that more shot than powder keeps patterns tighter. I also did away with the thick cushion wads because they blow holes in patterns. My load is 60 grs 2f a thin felt wad and 1 1/2 oz of shot and a thin over shot card. $#*! on turkeys! 1 1/4 oz for trap.

robert

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Re: .62 smoothbore loads
« Reply #3 on: February 08, 2012, 03:18:54 AM »
I also have had some luck with shot cups made out of different thickness paper to tighten loads for hunting. I use a 600 rd ball 60grs 2f or 3f and .015 patch for target shooting. If you use to thick of paper cup it will not open up and you get a big whole like a slug.

Daryl

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Re: .62 smoothbore loads
« Reply #4 on: February 08, 2012, 06:09:20 PM »
Some guys use post-it notes as they already have a glue line. If for a 20 bore, just use sissors and cut the small notes in 1/2 across the glue line, then wrap them around a 1/2" diameter dowel to form a tube. The glue will hold them. Flatten the tube and put them in a pocket in the folwer's bag. Lots of pockets. Trackofthewolf sells one cheaply that is well made of canvas and works very well. 
When you want to load, measure and dump the powder in, then seat an over shot wad down into the muzzle about an inch, pull out a tube, round it, and shove it into the muzzle on top of your overpower wad or wads that are pressed down an inch or so.  Shove your finger into the cup and it will open to the bore size and re-glue itself.  Pour in the shot and seat the overshot wad, then push the whole works down onto the powder. Vary the length of the tube to adjust the pattern. the longer the tube the tighter the pattern until it acts like a slug. 

This system can achieve much the same result as the Ely wire and paper baskets of the 1800's, designed to give and did give killing patterns on wilffowl, deer and wolves out to 100yards from non-choked smoothbores. The Ely 'wads' were colour coded for range. Some opened more quickly, others not until after 75 or 80 yards to that distance, they flew like a slug.

You can adjust your paper tubes to act in a similar fashion - it only takes experimentation time and a desire to develope such loads - or you can just load it up with powder, shot and wasp nest and 'take' whatever happens.