A Knife Quandry

[T*O*F]

I've got a fairly high dollar piece of damascus that is 11.25" x 2" x .25"
It's forged from Crucible L6 and Crucible O2 folded 320 times.

I've been in a quandry about what to do with it as I hate to waste any of it.  If I make a single blade with a full tang, a lot will be lost in the grip and as grindings.

Since it's fairly hefty, I thought about cutting it in half and having someone forge each piece a bit longer and put a spike tang on each piece.

If I did this, would the forging process screw up the pattern?

[C Wallingford]

If it is a random pattern piece it won't make any difference. Ladder pattern or other exotic patterns will change.  Make sure that you keep the heat up when you forge it.

[T*O*F]

If it is a random pattern piece it won't make any difference. Ladder pattern or other exotic patterns will change.

It's an "as beltsanded" piece right now.  I supposed I'll have to polish and etch it first to see what the pattern is.

[C Wallingford]

Dip it in some ferric chloride few about a minute and the pattern should be visible. Be sure and rinse it reeal good, that stuff is nasty.

[Dennis Glazener]

I wrapped mine in a paper towel soaked in vinegar overnight. Really brought the pattern out.
Dennis

[T*O*F]

Dip it in some ferric chloride few about a minute and the pattern should be visible. Be sure and rinse it reeal good, that stuff is nasty.

I've got a bottle of Radio Shack PCB Etchant which is ferric chloride.  It actually doesn't do anything if used full strength and I've been told it needs to be diluted.  What ratio?

[C Wallingford]

I mix it 50/50 with water and it works real well. After dipping it you will have to card it back to see the pattern because it will be real black when it comes out of the solution.

[ottawa]

a few i know unless the tang is to be seen add a peice of steel for a tang so they dont waste any pattern ie forge weld or silver braze

[T*O*F]

a few i know unless the tang is to be seen add a peice of steel for a tang so they dont waste any pattern ie forge weld or silver braze

Welding a bolt onto one of the pieces was something that I had also considered, but just butt welding the pieces together didn't seem strong enough.  I also considered dovetailing the bolt into the blade for a bit of strength.

I say bolt, because it would just save having the thread the end if a piece of steel were used.  One the other hand, the time required to file the bolt to shape would probably offset that.

[Larry Luck]

I'm not an expert on welding, but I have always heard that a properly done weld is as strong or stronger than the surrounding metal.  I saw a piece if failed hand forged barrel, and the failure was along a longitudinal inclusion and not at the weld.

When I first saw your post, the idea of welding the tang came to mind, particularly if the weld would be hidden by the guard or other transition between blade and hilt.

Merry Christmas,

Larry Luck

[T*O*F]

I'm not an expert on welding,

Larry,
I'm not either.  I took math and science classes, not shop.  Even though I was in the automotive repair business for 30 years, I used a smoke wrench more often than a welding tip.  I can gas weld and braze, but my stick welding looks like pigeon $#@*.  Had employees to do that job.  Just never practiced enough to get good at it.

I have always heard that a properly done weld is as strong or stronger than the surrounding metal.

The key is "properly done."  Right rod, proper fill technique, good penetration, etc.  I'll probably try it anyway.  I can always grind it off.  Never know if you don't try.