basic lock question--tutorial?

[The other DWS]

I have looked through the tutorial section searching for a basic guide or tutorial that will explain and show what the more accomplished builders do with a new lock when they receive it from the supplier with out finding one.
 What do you look for?
 What steps do you take to prepare it for use?
I do recognize that some locks are sold in a more "fitted and finished" state than others and that there are some member who may provide professional lock "tuning services" as well as more advanced lock rebuilding
 I have found one tutorial on polishing but that seems to me to be the final step in preparing a lock for use.  I will continue searching the archived files in search of lock set up and tuning instructions

I would find such a tutorial to be or great assistance and I am sure that some of our other members would as well.

[mjm46@bellsouth.net]

The first thing I check in a new lock is to see if the main spring is rubbing anywhere. And any other parts for that matter, sear, tumbler,. I have also had to polish the bearing point on the toe of the sear spring on some locks to fix drag there.

Next, I always disassemble the entire lock and file the inside of the plate to make it flat, and then polish it so it's like a mirror, if that doesn't stop the rub then a little filing on the back of the main spring toe will get it. Lock plates don't come polished inside any more. I miss that.

Next, oil and reassemble and cycle the lock a few times to see if any new scratches appear. Check to see if the frizzen closes tight (you shouldn't see light between the frizzen and the pan). Tumbler function on quality locks is pretty good these days, But if you have one that causes the sear bar to move in half and full cock, you can address this as well. The "Gunsmith of Grenville County" has detailed instructions. Or return it to the maker.

 Check to see that the back side of the cock is not rubbing on the plate and that it is square with everything, and that any screws are not rubbing the cock, if they are shorten them so they clear well. The goal is to remove any and all sources of excess friction.

If all this checks out then everything else is cosmetic. You can make it look like jewelry if you want.

Thats what I do to my locks. hope this helps. Following these procedures  I have made all my locks work fast and smoothly.

[Jim Kibler]

I'm sure this isn't the answer you want to hear, but the best way is to get an understanding of what  a good lock should be, then fix everything that is wrong.  There are so many things that can be wrong with a lock that there is no good way of listing a step by step process.  After you work with several locks, you will begin to figure things out I'm sure.

Jim

[longcruise]

How do you figure out if the tension on the frizzen is correct.  Have one on my bench right now and the sync of the half cock and full cock notches seems perfect, but the tension on the frizzen spring seems very tight.  With no experience in shooting flints, I'm not sure what to make of the amount of tension.

[rich pierce]

This is not an easy topic.  First choice is to buy a lock known as reliable.  Then if you have problems, return it for another or to be fixed. Keep in mind once you fiddle with it, it may not be returnable.

If you took 20 locks of the same model all made at the same time by the same outfit, some would function better than others.  That's because they are mass produced and so small variations can add up.  But on originals, sear noses were filed to match the tumbler notches and vise-versa, and each part was hand-formed and fitted to work with the next one.  So variations were not a problem, as parts were varied to fit together. If a hole drilled for the sear was back a bit, the nose was made longer.

[cmac]

The House videos cover this well. I 1st disassemble lock, remove casting marks and bevel the plate in a bit. Look over for any signs of drag and resolve those. Polish all the contact points, and the inside face of lock plate. With out the main spring and frizzen spring installed the hammer and frizzen should fall forward on their own when lock is tipped. Reshape any parts if desired. Oil and it should be okay. I always disassemble and check things over again after the lock has been cycled a bunch of times to insure no parts are dragging. Once in a while the tumbler needs a bit of attention to get a light trigger, but proceed with caution. It is easy to take too much off the tumbler and it will need to be replaced.

[LynnC]

Jim Chamber had  a presentation about what to look for in a good lock, step by step.  I've read it, just can't remember when.  Pretty sure it is/was on this site, I think   Good info and Very informative..............Lynn

[JDK]

I believe this is the link you are looking for: http://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=6913.0 J.D.

[Don Getz]

In my lifetime I have used many, many large siler flint locks, and, to be truthful, never had a problem.   When I take one
apart to polish the outside of the lock, a do some polishing to interior parts to make them work better.   I polish the nose
of the sear, I use 500 or 600 grit paper to polish the hole for the tumbler.   I do this by wrapping some emery paper
around a dowel and  insert it into the hole, then spin the lock plate on it. seems to work well.  After I have the exterior
parts polished to my satisfaction, I will reassemble the lock.   Put some good, fine grease on the tumbler hole in the plate,
put some of the same grease on the tumbler where the main spring rubs, also put a small dab of grease on the sear
where the sear springs rubs.  Also use some fine oil on the screws that go thru the frizzen, and on all the other moving
parts of the lock.  I suppose you could polish the inside of the lock plate, and, although I never do this, I think it would
help any lock if you would use some case nit on the lock plate, all parts slide much better on a hardened surface...............
Dpm

[LynnC]

Eureka JDK, That's It!

Very useful to all.  Perhaps it could be copied into the tutorials section.

[The other DWS]

I think that it is in the tutorial section.  I have looked at it before.  Its a good reference for a standard to go by.
All of the comments posted give a good idea of the processes various guys use between taking a new lock out of the bag and having it ready to install and shoot. 

As sort of a follow up question:  How many actually do a surface hardening on the inside of the lockplate, on a purchased assembled lock, as a wear preventer?
  I know that the springs should have clearance on the working limb and the tumbler and sear lever should be operating on their bearing hubs with clearance for the rest. So, in theory, only those hubs should actually be moving against the actual plate surface along with the tumbler-shaft in its bore.