Adjusting hammer angle?

[Blundercuss]

Greetings,
I have a question in which I will try to articulate. Those of you in the know please correct my terminology if needed.
Can the angle of throw for a hammer on a percussion lock be adjusted. For example; If the nipple is a few millimeters lower than where the hammer stops can the hammer be adjusted to meet the nipple correctly?
Thanks in advance---- Blundercuss

[Longknife]

Throw is measured from center of tumbler hole to center of nipple cup, explained here:

http://www.blackleyandson.com/acatalog/English_Flat_faced_Percussion_Hammers.html


I think you are talking about "travel", the distance the hammer moves from full cock to rest. The rest position should be on the nipple but the travel could be stopped by the tumbler striking the boss of the bridle where the upper bridle screw passes through. You can file or grind the tumbler or the boss for more clearance....CAUTION.....check the position the main spring on the tumbler "toe" as too much travel will cause the spring to fall off or the toe.....if your lock has the main spring link in it, it may cause the spring to drop below the lock plate resulting in interference with the wood.....understandify?...Ed

[T*O*F]

Use a longer nipple.  They are not all the same length.

[Swampwalker]

I would be cautious about grinding the tumbler stop for the reasons mentioned.  Another option is to shift the position of the cock on the tumbler.  To do this, you must make a square plug of steel, braze or weld (solder is not adequate) it in the existing tumbler hole on the cock, and then cut a new tumbler hole in the desired position.  Again, be careful not to overdo it.

[Michigan Flinter]

Swampwalker  what is the best way to cut in a new square hole ? I know if you had a square broach cutter of the correct size would be the cat's meow.

[JDK]

Traditionally the whole is drilled then filed square.  No machining necessary.  J.D.

[Curtis]

Carefully consider TOF's solution befor you go any further.  Just my opinion....

[Blundercuss]

How Do You'ns,
I want to let you all know about this question. First of all, I built a half stock rifle from parts that I had to buy piece  by piece over time. I purchased the lock from the "Track". A percussion lock that went with their Jim Bridger kit. Well, let me say, that this was the first gun I had ever put together that was this difficult. I put together a Hawken kit in the late seventies. This one had everything done except for the finishing. Next, upon finishing my latest gun I found that the hammer came up short to the nipple. I worked that hammer hot until I got it close. Still couldn't get it perfect.( it was about 2mm. from the nipple) So, I decided to shoot my rifle anyway because the inertia of the hammer swing still touched off the cap. The rifle shot beautifully for 20 rounds, then the tumbler broke near the stirrup link. Last of all, I ordered a new tumbler, polished the faces and rebuilt the lock.( the new tumbler looked the same as the old tumbler). I had no problems getting the lock back together. I used a mainspring vice to compress the spring and placed the stirrup link onto the claw of the main spring. I installed everything back together and low and behold the gap that existed between hammer and nipple was gone. It seems that the lock is smoother in its action. I feel very pleased so far with the repair has gone. I guess the test will be in the shooting. I will post some pics very soon. I thank you all for the help and insight that you'ns have given me. Blundercuss

[Swampwalker]

Glad you where able to fit a new tumbler, which fixed the timing issue, and got it to work properly.