A little help with architecture?

[coopersdad]

I've been working on this early Lancaster since last year.  It's my third build from a blank, but the others were 20 yrs ago, and as someone recently posted, it sure ain't like riding a bike - this feels like a first one!  I have a huge list of "what not to do next time..." I've been on this forum daily, and search whenever I begin a new stage - the knowledge here is amazing; translating that to my work is the issue!

Anyway, I am nearing completion, maybe.  My ramrod hole wandered downward about 1/16" or so, making the web at the breech about 1/4".  I have about 1/16" of wood on the lower forestock below the ramrod hole, and all appeared well as I progressed.   I assembled everything and sometimes it looks OK, other times it appears bit chunky below the lock panel area. I am torn if this will be flagrantly bad when finished.  I could take some more off the lower forestock but may break into the rod hole.   I thought I'd get some input on this (or anything thing else you see (I do know I got the patchbox lid pointed a bit higher than it should be).  It is a Rice C wt .54 cal. Here are some pics:

[curly]

I wouldn't change anything. Looks great to me. The lower forestock is supposed to be 1/16 heaver than the front, so that looks good as well. As for the patch box alignment...that's the way I intentionally do mine. I have one on the bench right now that looks almost identical to yours. Good job!

Curly

[Bernard]

All looks good to me.

[Pete G.]

A simple carved molding will make an area like that appear slimmer. It visually breaks it into two smaller pieces instead of one big one. Same thing with a forestock molding. I suspect that is a reason why carving evolved in some areas on a stock. A flat tang transitioning into a rounded area can be a little cumbersome; carving helps make the transition.

[Jim Kibler]

I think it's looking pretty good.  It's hard to tell with the photographs though.  One thing that may help is to set up some cross lighting when taking pictures.  This shoudl better show the stock countours.  Keep at it!

Jim

[Don Getz]

Looks good to me.    If it has a fault, it's that extra wood on the bottom, but, because of where the ramrod hole is located
there is little that you can do about it.   I've built quite a few guns that suffered the same problem........Don

[Dphariss]

It's fine.
The MAKER often sweats things that other people, even other makers, never notice.

Next time be very careful that the rod channel is parallel to the bore in all respects and drill carefully.

Dan

[coopersdad]

That's the truth!  I appreciate the encouragement, all.  I will definitely do better with the rr hole next time.  I found (of course afterwards) a spot near the entry hole in my groove that didn't allow the drill to sit tight to the bottom, causing it to go slightly low.   #18 on the loooong list of what I learned to (try) not do next time.

[FALout]

Clearing out chips as you drill the RR hole is important also.  To me it's worse when the RR hole goes toward the barrel channel, doesn't leave you any room for front lock bolt.  As already suggested, molding lines can help make that area a little thinner.

[Dphariss]

That's the truth!  I appreciate the encouragement, all.  I will definitely do better with the rr hole next time.  I found (of course afterwards) a spot near the entry hole in my groove that didn't allow the drill to sit tight to the bottom, causing it to go slightly low.   #18 on the loooong list of what I learned to (try) not do next time.

Use a gun drill as sold by TOW they don't run off.
I was talking to a friend about rod holes. Used a twist drill with one cutting edge ground back.
It is supposed to prevent or reduce run out. He still ending up with a few runouts in 100 or so guns. I mean RUN OUT as in wear plate.

I have not done 100 holes with the gun drill but I have yet to have one run other than where is POINTED within a few thousands. But a mistake in laying out and cutting the rod groove can cause trouble because the drill will be pointed at the wrong place in the stock. The groove must be parallel to the the bore for drilling.
Note that care must be taken with doing 1/2 stocks with tapered barrels using the rib and pipes as a guide. These will cause the aim point to be low so the breech of the barrel must be shimmed up to counter and make the drill run parallel to the BORE.

Dan

[coopersdad]

Yep, a proper drill is on the list, too, although this was a groove problem from my inattention.  Spent part of the day final sanding.  Carving is the next adventure. I'm taking Jim Kibler's class in June, but I should have this done by then; I'll learn how I shoulda done it!  

[Ian Pratt]

 Dan - I agree with you on the gun drills, have been using those myself for maybe ten years if I remember right, and with good success.
  I disagree with one point you made, the groove is not necessarily cut parallel to the bore. I would say we generally want the bottom of the groove flat before drilling - flat as in no dips or high spots in the bottom of the groove - but with many guns the rod groove angles away from the bore as you head toward the breech.