Buttstock Design

[DB]

When laying out a rifle, I understand some people use a photo copy of the butt stock
Is that the best way or are there other ways? Does anyone free hand draw it? If so, can you explain the process or is it simply art? Length of pull certainly comesinto play as well as drop from line of sight. I'm talking about the graceful lines from heel to wrist.

[rich pierce]

I do a little of both copying an original and modifying it.  I make a blueprint and  start with the specific barrel and specific lock.  I locate the lock on the barrel, marking where the touch hole will be.  Now I know where the trigger will be located.  Then I take the length of pull i want and position the actual buttplate.  I move the buttplate around to achieve the pitch and drop at heel I want.  With that as a starting point I lay out the toe line first.  Then I work on the comb and top line for the wrist.  All the time looking at photos of originals I am using for inspiration.

[Dphariss]

Like Rich I do a little of both.
But it depends on what I am doing also.

In trying to do a version of an original rifle the placement of the lock can have an effect of the appearance of the wrist. A rifle that has the fence right the end of the barrel will look different if the lock is placed forward to clear the breech plug.
Some original rifles have very short pulls, between 12 and 13" lengthening the pull will require careful work to avoid getting the rifle out of perspective.
Heavier/lighter barrels will require modifications. Some originals have barrels that are heavier at the breech than the typical barrel found today. This will change the look.

This is why its important to draw in your parts on the blank during layout. Locating the lock locates the trigger etc etc.



When sawing out remember that the surface will require wood removal to smooth the saw cuts, so the ".600" in the photo, to be removed prior the cutting the barrel channel in the photo allows for this.

Its also important to know that some photos of rifles are distorted due to the lens used  or camera angles.

Dan

[Mike Gahagan]

I use a projector that I bought at a craft supply house.Just set it over a picture and shine it on a piece of poster board until you get the size you want and then trace around it.It will not give real sharp edges but more than enough to do what you need.

[aflo]

I would suggest black map tape from the art store (Chartpak, etc.)
It is available in various thicknesses (1/16" or 1/32" works well but 1/8" is easier to get a smooth line). It is easy to see on paper or wood and can be "tuned" repeatedly. To make a subtle modification, run a second piece along the first with any corrections, then move the first line to match. Work back and forth between the two lines until it is good. Just keep track of which side of the tape is the actual line.

[flehto]

I pencil over a buttstock onto tracing paper of a LR   pictured in the RCA books and then enlarge it  to the stated buttplate height dim. From there it's modified to suit the hardware that I'm using.  Hopefully between the two, the resultant design is recognizeable as to the "school" I'm emulating....Fred

[DB]

Using a swamped barrel how much web should be allowed at the muzzle and do you connect the web at the muzzle with the web at the breach with a straight line?

[rich pierce]

The web at the muzzle is up to you.  Some schools had a deeper nosecap than others.  And the final dimension also depends on whether the ramrod will swell at the muzzle for the length of the nosecap or not.  Start with 3/16" and work from there.  The ramrod channel must be layed out straight of course at first even though working with a swamped barrel.  So mark 3/16" below the bottom flat at the muzzle, where the ramrod groove for drilling will be, and say 1/8" at the breech.  Now snap a line or use a really long straightedge to draw the line for the bottom of the web/top of the ramrod hole and groove.  Check to see if this gives you the necessary minimum thickness for the front lock bolt.  If it looks iffy and you're not building a Lehigh, you may want to aim for 3/16" web at the breech.  Keep everything straight while drilling the ramrod hole and you can reduce the thickness of the web at the nosecap later to accomodate a swell in the ramrod.  Can also curve the ramrod groove some to follow the swamp if you want after the hole is deilled and came out OK.