Author Topic: Horn Mandrels  (Read 2414 times)

Ahtuwisae

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Horn Mandrels
« on: April 03, 2012, 04:32:05 PM »
Someone had asked how i hold my horns when I work and if it was possible to hold them in a way for two-handed filing.  I actually just finished this up this past weekend and it is a great improvement over the old one I was using  First I want to say...to each their own....but I have found that these work really well for what I do.  It should be mounted in a vise that swivels so any position of the mandrels and horn are capable.  when I find a suitable vise i will do so. Most importantly these mandrels allow for two-handed work..a blessing to any horner!!

the old one



Large mandrel
What you will need:
rock maple 2 1/2" x 2" x 9" long.
rock maple 7" long by 2 1/2" square (for turning the upright.
Poplar 10" long by 4" square (to turn the mandrel. 
1-3/8" T-nut,
1- 3/8" x 4" carriage bolt,
1 piece of steel rod 3/16 by 7" (for the t-handle)
3- 3/8" fender washers

Now for the pictures...you will find dimensions where I can but most of this was done on the fly.

here is the finished product sans leather


all around views with leather on










The upright post and examples of its use (will make a leather sleeve for this so the horn will not slip or get marred by the wood)






How the mandrel attaches to the front.  I turned the mandrel on a flowing taper from 4" down to 0.  then i cut the back 3 3/4" in on each side to make a 7/8" thick tenon.  the hole is 3/8 drilled center and about 1 1/4 inch in from the end.  two fender washers (I roughed up both sides and kerfed them with a chisel) on either side of the flats.  the cut in the block is 1" wide and 4" deep that "V"s at the end. (this allows the flex when tightening.)


the T=nut goes on the back side  to receive the carriage bolt.


The other side of the carriage bolt with T-handle.  I turned two small oak ends for the handle.  the cross pieces against the fender washer is kind of guess work.  I turned the bolt into the T-nut about half way.  then drilled the hole in the bolt so it would fit flush with the fender washer.  this gives a stop and further turning will tighten the sides against the mandrel tenon to hold it in place.  this is where roughing the fender washers comes in to play.  If they remain smooth, all the tightening in the world will not help and the mandrel will move on the smooth surfaces.




I drilled for the t-handle just behind the bolt head, ground it down to it's appearance here and then inserted the rod and hammered the oak ends on.


Now for the back

two holes - top one is drilled 3/4" for a smooth tapered steel rod.  The bottom one is drilled and tapped for a 5/16 thread.  It is the same thread on the tool I use for screw-tips (thank you Skillman).  Both of these are for mounting the horn tip first to file on the front.  We will explore the two further in a minute.




Smooth Rod - this one is not tapered..my dad is making one and I will add to the post when done.






The threaded rod - the nut is used as a stop and helps to hold the horn immobile allowing for two handed filing.  I also cut a screw slot in the tip for using a screwdriver to insert.  i intend to put a T-nut here for more stability and less wear.






The rest of these pictures are to show the wooden mandrel in it's different positions with a horn mounted.











Finally I also wanted to show the small mandrel I use for scraping.  pretty simple and straightforward.








And there you have it!!  Feel free to PM or e-mail me for any questions or in-depth measurements.  I am available to call in the evenings as well and ....My door is always open if you ever have the chance and want to see it first-hand.

Regards - John DeWald.

Offline Tom Cooper

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Re: Horn Mandrels
« Reply #1 on: April 03, 2012, 05:11:09 PM »
Thanks for the detailed pictures, will make it easy to duplicate when the time comes.
Tom

The best way I know of to ruin a perfectly plain longrifle is to carve and engrave it

Offline Tim Crosby

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Re: Horn Mandrels
« Reply #2 on: April 03, 2012, 06:06:11 PM »
 Pretty neat John. Here is what I use, 3/4 X 3/4, leather wrapped for about 8", soak leather and jam up in horn. The other is just a length of 1/4" rod in a block, put it in spout hole and swivel as needed.

 






Offline alyce-james

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Re: Horn Mandrels
« Reply #3 on: April 03, 2012, 09:13:28 PM »
Thanks gentleman. Very interesting pictures of your mandrel systems. Thanks, Jim 
« Last Edit: April 03, 2012, 09:14:17 PM by alyce-james »
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