I am going to expose myself!

[mbokie5]

And it's going to be embarrassing, but I think I'm at an impasse. And, most importantly, I need a lot of help and input. Spare no criticism, please. Call me anything but don't call me late for supper. 

Here's my mess, tell me if it's salvageable or if it's time to start over.





What you're seeing in the 2nd pic is that the barrel channel on the top is not snug at the top of the channel. If you stare at it, it may become more obvious.

The other side is snug.

I dunno, but I think I've ruined this stock.

[KLMoors]

The tang area can definitely be saved. Here's how I would do it. Clean up the edges of the inlet so they are nice and smooth so you will get a good glue joint. Find some slivers of wood that you have taken off of the stock and match the color of the wood in this area. Pre fit the slivers to the areas you need to fill so they are oversized by a 16th or more. Stain the slivers and the area around the inlet with the stain you are going to use. Let it all sit over night for the stain to dry. Then glue in your slivers using either super glue or stainable elmers and when they are all set up re-inlet the tang.

For the line along the barrel, it is hard to tell from the picture but if it is not too bad the finish may be enough to close it up some.  I think I have heard of steaming the area, putting the barrel back in, and then wrapping it all with surgical tubing too to move it tight to the barrel. I haven't had to do this so I'm not too sure.

[mbokie5]

The tang area can definitely be saved. Here's how I would do it. Clean up the edges of the inlet so they are nice and smooth so you will get a good glue joint. Find some slivers of wood that you have taken off of the stock and match the color of the wood in this area. Pre fit the slivers to the areas you need to fill so they are oversized by a 16th or more. Stain the slivers and the area around the inlet with the stain you are going to use. Let it all sit over night for the stain to dry. Then glue in your slivers using either super glue or stainable elmers and when they are all set up re-inlet the tang.

For the line along the barrel, it is hard to tell from the picture but if it is not too bad the finish may be enough to close it up some.  I think I have heard of steaming the area, putting the barrel back in, and then wrapping it all with surgical tubing too to move it tight to the barrel. I haven't had to do this so I'm not too sure.

I think I can manage the tang repair. That sounds entirely doable.

I haven't got a clue what stain to use.

I may be able to handle the remolding of the forestock.

[bluenoser]

I agree with the advice regarding the tang -  but would stay with wood glue such as the Elmers.  I doubt the steaming would work for the forestock.  Due to spring-back, it would have to be pulled in beyond the edge of the barrel in order to be tight when dry and released.  Also, I think it would gradually open up again as the wood picks up and loses moisture.  Gluing in a thin strip of wood might be an option.

My reason for replying is the condition of your tools.  Judging by the inlet around the tang, I suspect they may not be sharp enough.  Either that or you may be levering pieces out.  You will find the job much easier if your tools are razor sharp and almost impossible if they are dull.  There are probably tutorials on tool sharpening on this site, or elsewhere on the internet.  If you are interested in getting a good book on the subject, I recommend "The Complete Guide To Sharpening" by Leonard Lee (the owner of Lee Valley Tools).

Don't give up on it and supper's at 6 
Laurie

[Acer Saccharum]

the reason to stain any glue joints before gluing is that the glue joint won't stain properly. If you don't pre-stain, the joint will show up as a WHITE line.

 If you have a concept of what color you will finish the gun with, pre-stain the glue joints in a color that's close. You don't have to have an exact match.

[mbokie5]

I agree with the advice regarding the tang -  but would stay with wood glue such as the Elmers.  I doubt the steaming would work for the forestock.  Due to spring-back, it would have to be pulled in beyond the edge of the barrel in order to be tight when dry and released.  Also, I think it would gradually open up again as the wood picks up and loses moisture.  Gluing in a thin strip of wood might be an option.

My reason for replying is the condition of your tools.  Judging by the inlet around the tang, I suspect they may not be sharp enough.  Either that or you may be levering pieces out.  You will find the job much easier if your tools are razor sharp and almost impossible if they are dull.  There are probably tutorials on tool sharpening on this site, or elsewhere on the internet.  If you are interested in getting a good book on the subject, I recommend "The Complete Guide To Sharpening" by Leonard Lee (the owner of Lee Valley Tools).

Don't give up on it and supper's at 6 
Laurie

Thanks Laurie. 

I can sharpen better than what you're seeing. I just got too lazy to sharpen and was too antsy to stop. I can fix that. I'll have to sharpen better and way more often.

I won't quit, I want this rifle. 

I was thinking about the long strip on the barrel channel. I think I may try that. Otherwise, it seems to fit ok. Could be better, for sure, but seems acceptable at this point.

On a side note, I was one of Lee Valley's first customers in the store that was off of Pinecrest/Greenbank in Ottawa/Nepean.

[mbokie5]

the reason to stain any glue joints before gluing is that the glue joint won't stain properly. If you don't pre-stain, the joint will show up as a WHITE line.

 If you have a concept of what color you will finish the gun with, pre-stain the glue joints in a color that's close. You don't have to have an exact match.

But would you say that I should think of using a dark stain or something lighter. I have a Turkish walnut (maybe, don't know for sure, it's a Pedersoli Pennsylvania) flint that has a nice color that I could live with. but maybe that's all wrong.

[Long Ears]

Now is why gun building is fun. You learn how to fix your errors and then you learn how to not do it next time. "SLOW DOWN" is the best advice I have got here. I totally agree with everyone above it can all be fixed. The glue line is the issue as everyone has made quite clear. Staining the area first is a must and I have had good luck coloring my glue be it epoxy or water base. (I use Titebond 3). Good luck. Bob

[mbokie5]

Now is why gun building is fun. You learn how to fix your errors and then you learn how to not do it next time. "SLOW DOWN" is the best advice I have got here. I totally agree with everyone above it can all be fixed. The glue line is the issue as everyone has made quite clear. Staining the area first is a must and I have had good luck coloring my glue be it epoxy or water base. (I use Titebond 3). Good luck. Bob

Too true Bob, too true.

Slowing down is usually advice I give, not advice I need. But this time, I needed to be told. Thanks!

 

[Stophel]

If you have a good fitting glue joint, you won't see any real glue line.       not much of one, anyway, and I never see it as being "white".... in fact, it's dark!  And, of course, the stock should be stained with Aqua Fortis...

Use Titebond II or III glue.  Fit your pieces well, glue 'em up and clamp 'em.  The spring clip Pony clamps are quite useful here (not that I ever need them....)  When it's dry, shape it down and re-inlet the barrel.  For smaller slivers, you can actually use the barrel for the clamp.   

If your repair is too visible to you and it bugs you, well, then that means it's time to practice your "aging" techniques!!!  Places like that can be easily hidden.   

[mbokie5]

If you have a good fitting glue joint, you won't see any real glue line.       not much of one, anyway, and I never see it as being "white".... in fact, it's dark!  And, of course, the stock should be stained with Aqua Fortis...

Use Titebond II or III glue.  Fit your pieces well, glue 'em up and clamp 'em.  The spring clip Pony clamps are quite useful here (not that I ever need them....)  When it's dry, shape it down and re-inlet the barrel.  For smaller slivers, you can actually use the barrel for the clamp.   

If your repair is too visible to you and it bugs you, well, then that means it's time to practice your "aging" techniques!!!  Places like that can be easily hidden.   

So stay away from gorilla glue?

I'll have to get some of the Aqua fortis.

[David R. Pennington]

A friend of mine who has been building for years says you can only become a good gunsmith after you learn to fix your mistakes. I once had a rifle almost done and gouged a huge hole out of the lock mortise with the drill chuck. I was sick! I put the thing away for a few days then decided to try and salvage it. I cut a tiny dovetail mortice in the area and glued in a matching piece of wood. I finished it and no one has ever noticed it unless I point it out.

[Stophel]

I do NOT like polyurethane glues.  It is much the same stuff as the expanding spray foam!  I tried a polyurethane glue some time ago (not Gorilla glue, another name brand but I don't recall what it was.  Same type of thing though).  It was a mess, and it was NOT very strong at all.

[mbokie5]

A friend of mine who has been building for years says you can only become a good gunsmith after you learn to fix your mistakes. I once had a rifle almost done and gouged a huge hole out of the lock mortise with the drill chuck. I was sick! I put the thing away for a few days then decided to try and salvage it. I cut a tiny dovetail mortice in the area and glued in a matching piece of wood. I finished it and no one has ever noticed it unless I point it out.

That's the same thing I was taught when I built guitars. It's still true.

[mbokie5]

I do NOT like polyurethane glues.  It is much the same stuff as the expanding spray foam!  I tried a polyurethane glue some time ago (not Gorilla glue, another name brand but I don't recall what it was.  Same type of thing though).  It was a mess, and it was NOT very strong at all.

I do NOT like polyurethane glues.  It is much the same stuff as the expanding spray foam!  I tried a polyurethane glue some time ago (not Gorilla glue, another name brand but I don't recall what it was.  Same type of thing though).  It was a mess, and it was NOT very strong at all.

Then I won't be using that.

I'll stick to the tried and true glues.

[MarkEngraver]

I had an engraving teacher that used to say ... "your not an engraver till you can fix your screw ups"

It's times like this, when you learn to really be a "stockmaker" !
Don't get discouraged, use your imagination and determination to solve the problem.

and like Super Chicken use to say to Fred .... "you knew the job was dangerous when you took it Fred"...

Mark

[mbokie5]

I had an engraving teacher that used to say ... "your not an engraver till you can fix your screw ups"

It's times like this, when you learn to really be a "stockmaker" !
Don't get discouraged, use your imagination and determination to solve the problem.

and like Super Chicken use to say to Fred .... "you knew the job was dangerous when you took it Fred"...

Mark

Everything else I entirely get and entirely agree with.

but I never heard of super chicken.  It must not be kfc, huh?

[JDK]

Obviously can't tell from the pictures.....Have you taken your forestock down to less than half your barrel profile/height?  If not and if your gaps are only at the top of your inlet, the gap may disappear when as you finish taking wood off.   J.D.

[MarkEngraver]

It's an old Saturday morning cartoon, when there where Saturday morning cartoons.
Super Chicken flew around in his SuperCoupe (an egg) with Fred (a lion ), his super side-kick righting wrongs.
Fred was always the one getting blown up or something, and that's when Super Chicken would say... " you knew the job was dangerous when you took it "..... !?
Played along side Tom Slick , George of the Jungle.

Google it.
It was corny but fun.

Mark

PS. good point JDK on the forestock height

[mbokie5]

Obviously can't tell from the pictures.....Have you taken your forestock down to less than half your barrel profile/height?  If not and if your gaps are only at the top of your inlet, the gap may disappear when as you finish taking wood off.   J.D.

I would say I've taken more off the bad side than the good side and that the good side is still quite a bit over half.

I was thinking that there's still a lot of wood left before I get near the ramrod channel. And that I might be able to alter the channel to accommodate a little better. but maybe that's flawed thinking. (?)

[mbokie5]

It's an old Saturday morning cartoon, when there where Saturday morning cartoons.
Super Chicken flew around in his SuperCoupe (an egg) with Fred (a lion ), his super side-kick righting wrongs.
Fred was always the one getting blown up or something, and that's when Super Chicken would say... " you knew the job was dangerous when you took it "..... !?
Played along side Tom Slick , George of the Jungle.

Google it.
It was corny but fun.

Mark

PS. good point JDK on the forestock height

Sounds like my kind of humor. My family calls me the King of Corn.

[JoeG]

You can fill in the gap along the barrel by gluing a strip of tan construction paper
if will not be noticeable after you stain a put on your finish
if you use a linseed oil/bees wax finish it will help hide all the slight gaps

[mbokie5]

You can fill in the gap along the barrel by gluing a strip of tan construction paper
if will not be noticeable after you stain a put on your finish
if you use a linseed oil/bees wax finish it will help hide all the slight gaps

Interesting.

I'm certain that the missing wood is of a greater volume than a strip of construction paper. How would the paper stand up over time?

[Bob Roller]

I had a gap in a barrel channel and used a very thin walnut strip that a friends wife had left over from making baskets. Worked fine and blended right in.

Bob Roller

[mbokie5]

On the gap filling, the stock still has the rectangular block from the vendor, that every one knows who it is now. I am ever so grateful for that block now, let me tell ya.

I can only thank the vendor for the quality of the kit. It's my first, but IMHO, it's superb.

Anyway, I may be able to use some wood from that portion of the stock, to fix my messes.