Rails for inletting Barrel chanels

[Robby]

Like a rip saw, the teeth are like little chisels and don't stick out on each side of the plane of the blade like a cross cut blade.
Robby

[rich pierce]

Normally saws have the teeth sticking out to the side so the cut or kerf is wider than the rest of the blade and the blade doesn't bind. This is called "set".  Removing the "set" to the teeth allows the blade to be run right against the rails and makes a cleaner narrow controlled cut that will not extend outward.

[DB]

So, a "rip" saw is what you would use?

[Robby]

DB, I have a different method, but If I were to use this method of inletting, I would probably use this type of saw.
http://www.woodcraft.com/product/2007324/3949/4200-veneer-hand-saw.aspx
Robby

[Jay Close]

It's probably worth mentioning that the rails method of inletting  an swamped barrel was redeveloped by Wallace Gusler inspired by what he observed in the barrel channel of an original rifle. The clue that got him thinking was shallow saw kerfs along the sides of the inlet where a fine saw had cut a bit too deep. If the vertical sides of the inlet were cut with a saw, then some sort of guide would have been required. Hence, the rails. John Bivins adopted the method and wrote a step by step tutorial for Rifle Magazine many moons ago.

[rich pierce]

So, a "rip" saw is what you would use?

I took a flea market backed dovetail style saw, filed off the existing teeth, and filed in rip-style teeth at 8 per inch (if I am recalling properly) for a fine cut.

[flintriflesmith]

We found at the CW Gunshop that we could get better cutting by leaving the set on one side of the saw. Just cut in the direction that keeps the set on the side away from the rails. Meaning you will cut breech to muzzle on one side of the channel and muzzle to breech on the other.

We also left the rails on for the early part of the inletting because they prevent the barrel from leaning and giving a false mark on what wood to remove.

Gary

[Kermit]

That's the trick, Gary. I've used it for cutting dadoes. Didn't know this had to be rediscovered. I picked it up watching a very old furniture maker in Scotland. He had removed the set from one side of a small backsaw with a stone, and left it on the other. He had two, a righty and a lefty. I use one with the set taken off the port side. My saw has two slots milled through perpendicular to the length to accomodate an adjustable wooden fence (carriage bolts and wing nuts) to be a depth stop.

Never thought of cutting a curved line. A veneer saw would certainly work, but painfully slowly, methinks. This might give someone an idea for a dedicated saw for this task:

http://showcase.netins.net/web/iabonsai/LaRue/Stairsaw.html

You can refile a small backsaw to rip effectively by eliminating every other tooth, so a 15pt saw becomes 7 1/2. Close enough.

I glue sacrificial glue blocks and such using white glue and copy paper between the wood surfaces. Easy to break the bond, and it cleans up with a quick sanding or scraping. Without the paper you can get nasty tearout.

[Long John]

The saw Robby sited is a veneer saw.  I am too old to use one of those. 

My saw is a little back saw with a slightly repositioned handle that lets the handle stay above the surface of the wood I am cutting.



I filed the set off both sides of the blade because I start the saw cut at the muzzle and head for the breeach.  As the blade heats up it tends to bind but a little Butcher's wax alleviates that.

The saw cuts the walls of the barrel groove just fine.  I have found that for me it is just easier to lay the flat side of the chisel next to the side of the barrel and tap it with a mallet.  Repeating this process the length of the barrel gives you a line to cut on for the inlet.  Unless Acer fires me I plan to let in a barrel during the Fair at the ALR tent.  There's nothing like embarrassing yourself in front of 3000 people!

Best Regards,

John Cholin

[Dr. Tim-Boone]

All of my good Disston saws that were handed down from my father back in the 1960's were stolen from my garage  several years ago...so...Here is what I use:

Japanese Silky Hibiki Ryoba Saw

Back in the day, the absolute best saw a manufacturer could offer had a taper-ground blade with no-set teeth. Simply put, the steel got progressively thinner behind the teeth so that the teeth didn't need to be pushed over to avoid binding during the cut. Although, these saws were more expensive and difficult to make, they made a dramatic difference in productivity during an era of sweat-powered work.

Silky has created an extraordinary saw in a ryoba format (double-sided, pull-cut, Japanese saw) that has a taper ground blade with the scantest of tooth set. The crosscut side features 19tpi for a fast yet smooth cut. The rip side has 11tpi at the heel for easy starts and 7tpi at the toe for efficient rips. This variable-tooth pattern is another rediscovered trait found on premium saws from a bygone era.

Silky impulse-hardens the teeth on both sides of the blade, so they'll stay sharp considerably longer than conventional blades. Like all Silky saws, the Hibiki is built for real world use, so it comes with a contoured, rubberized handle and a snap-lock, protective sheath that can hang on your belt or mount to a wall. Replacement blade changes are so easy that you could probably do it wearing gloves. The Hibiki makes an excellent companion to the Silky Folding Dozuki (126435) in outfitting a first class handsaw kit. Overall length 19-3/8".

http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/japanesesilkyhibikiryobasaw.aspx

[Kermit]

Someday I'll try those saws that combine Japanese style teeth in a European style backsaw that cuts on the push instead of pull. I was taught to cut dovetails with a backsaw, moved to using a pullsaw, and now I'm back to cutting them on the push. The Lie-Nielsen saw is worth the $$$, BTW.